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Crap... Knock is worse after Lucas treatment and cleaning
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#1 | ||
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Web Wheeler
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Crap... Knock is worse after Lucas treatment and cleaning
I gave my gas tank and oil a lucas treatment and cleaned out everything underneath the hood.... I was trying to make this BETTER....not HORRIBLE
now my knock is REALLY bad. WTF did I do and how do I make it better. Here is a ****ty cell phone vid. I gave my gas tank and oil a lucas treatment and cleaned out everything underneath the hood.... ![]() now my knock is REALLY bad. WTF did I do and how do I make it better. Here is a ****ty cell phone vid. HELP ![]() ![]() HELP
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#2 |
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Burlington, Kentucky
Posts: 5,171
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does it get louder when you give it gas?
if so YOU broken internal parts some where i bet u pull the Oil pan and find piston skirts could also be a Wrist pin.
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Interested in Amsoil? Sold4" Hybrid lift TeraFlex coils IRO Adjustable LA's Jks tracbar 1.25spidertrax spacers 265/75/16 Dura-tracs 2011 WK2 Laredo with ORA1 |
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#3 | |
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Web Wheeler
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NOPE!!!! acceleration doesn't have any effect on the knock. It's more of a TAP-TA-TAP-TAP and not constant. Then when I give it a little gas it goes away. It doesn't even start until the engine is warm and the oil pressure drops. When cold the oil pressue is around 30 and no knock. If I really jacked something up then the knock would be constant.
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#4 | |
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Web Wheeler
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check out my $300 beater build (link in my sig) for the latest on my engine knock and oil pressure issues. I need help with this. I want it fixed TODAY!
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#5 |
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Registered User
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my first jeep did the same thing sounds just like that come to find out my flexplate was cracked is it coming from the top or bottom of motor
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1993 xj 4x4 3" lift, rancho rs 5000 shocks,surco roofrack, cobra 40 ch. cb.,31" savero m/t's roofrack mounted lights(dead) 1994 ZJ 4x4 4.0 3.75 rough country edlebrock shocks 32x11.50r15 bfg a/t's |
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#6 | |
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Web Wheeler
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I have some light noise coming from the bottom, but from what I read that sounds pretty common and it isn't loud or worrysome. The TAP-TA-TAP-TAP (knock) I was having was in the top of my engine and wasn't present on start up (cold), but showed up as soon as the HEEP was warmed up...at the same time the oil pressure dropped from 30psi slowly down to 0-5psi.
I have the HEEP torn apart right now replacing the water pump, thermostat, serp belt, radiator hoses, and oil pressure sensor....as well as fixing a few cracks in my power steering pump mount. Oh, and I'm going to pull the oil pan to see what everything looks like in there that could be the cuase of my low oil pressure after warmed up. Then I'm going to slap a new oil seal in there and fill 'er up with 20w50. I'll let you know how all of that works out. I have the next two days off (mon-tues), so I should be able to get it all done then. Thanks for the reply
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#7 |
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Instant Gator
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Sounds like your bearings/journals may be shot. As the engine heats up, the oil thins. With wear on the engine the oil no longer has the tighter clearances to hold pressure.
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Miss Amy's sensibilities and the language filter prevent me from telling you what I really think about you. 2006 Liberty Sport CRD 1979 J10 LWB |
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#8 | |
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Web Wheeler
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I don't think so. It didn't do this when I first picked up the HEEP. It just did it after I had an oil change done at a quickie place. I changed it again with 10w30 and did the lucas treatment........actually......that would make sense. So, now that I cleaned a bunch of gunk out of there and put in the 10w30 the oil was a lot thinner than the dirty crap that was in there. SO, do you think putting in the heavier weight 20w50 will help me out for now? If it does...how much time do you think that will buy me before having to rip the engine apart?
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#9 | |
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Web Wheeler
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oh, and the oil pressure goes back up to 30psi when I'm accelerating, but goes back down to 0-5psi after I come to a stop again.
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#10 | |
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Instant Gator
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Miss Amy's sensibilities and the language filter prevent me from telling you what I really think about you. 2006 Liberty Sport CRD 1979 J10 LWB |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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It's hard to see in the vid, but is that a Fram oil filter? Is so, I'd start by getting rid of that and seeing what happens.
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-88 MJ; 4.0L, ex-2wd, TJ ax15/231, 78 Ford D44 w/spool, 9" w/posi, 33" trXus MTs, custom roll-bar/bumpers/etc. Also an 86 MJ Metric ton and 2 '90 MJs Projects/wheelin' pics: picturetrail.com/petermontie My email: petermontie@hotmail.com ComancheClub.com/forums |
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#12 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Yeah, if you read my beater build thread you'll see that I already did that. It wasn't a Fram, but it was a piece of crap and I replaced it with a Bosch. I had a small oil leak that they probably caused putting the filter on there somehow. It was tight, but still leaking.....bastards
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#13 |
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Registered User
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i wouldnt be sugar coating it to stop the noise i agree with turtlerace. from past experiance when it does it when it heats up....its bad.. get was you can from the motor dont throw a rod or you wont get a core charge back if u buy a new motor
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1993 xj 4x4 3" lift, rancho rs 5000 shocks,surco roofrack, cobra 40 ch. cb.,31" savero m/t's roofrack mounted lights(dead) 1994 ZJ 4x4 4.0 3.75 rough country edlebrock shocks 32x11.50r15 bfg a/t's |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I would change the oil again with fresh 10W30 from your brand of choice, put on a new Mopar filter, and leave the snake oil (Lucas additives) completely out of it.
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#15 | |
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Web Wheeler
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changed it out with 20w50 and replaced the sending unit with no change. Well....the pressure is a LITTLE bit better. Instead of dropping down to 0-5psi at idle when warm it now sits around 8-10psi
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