Before anything, make sure the surfaces are flat. Definitely a rear main and front main for starters. Might want to think about the freeze plugs also since it's easy to get to them with the engine out. Might as well check the cam bearings also while it's out. Not sure how in depth you're going into it but honing the cylinder walls and piston rings are also a good idea, that will up the compression with new rings and will up the power some from where it is now.
[B]1986 Jeep Comanche 126000+ miles[/B]
Long Bed, Chevy 350 TPI (5.7L V8), AX15, NP231
Roll Bar, 15/38.5R16.5 Ground Hawgs, Bastard lift (Custom 3-link long arm system, 4.5" Rusty's front springs w/ 1.75" spacers and 6.5" RC shocks, SOA rear), Dana 60HP/Sterling 10.25, 4.10's, Recessed winch, more mods to come...
[B]1992 Jeep Comanche 174000+ miles[/B]
Short Bed, 4.0L I6 HO, AX15, NP231
In the process of doing a frame up restoration.
[B]1990 Jeep Cherokee XJ 207774 miles[/B]
4.0L I6, AW4, NP231. Tom Woods SYE and Drive Shaft, Rusty's 8.0" Long Arm Suspension Lift, 36/13.5R15 Super Swamper IROK's, Dana 30 Front, Tube Diff Guard, Dana 44 Rear, 4.56 gears, Ox Locker, disc brake conversion