MPG tips - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 54 Old 05-24-2013, 11:23 AM
ZB_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse12801
Can a 2007 GC AWD laredo run on 93 octane or is it only geared for 87??Where does the seafoam go?In the tank?
Yes, with a full tank. You can also put it in your oil before OCI


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post #47 of 54 Old 08-11-2013, 08:55 AM
vizro
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all great points notes taken
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post #48 of 54 Old 08-12-2013, 11:46 AM
jesse12801
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Quote:
Yes, with a full tank. You can also put it in your oil before OCI
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I think we all just need a beer. (courtesy of ChrisHager)

This forum is a double edge blade, it's saved me thousands in repairs and cost me thousands in mods
and Thanks for the info.
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post #49 of 54 Old 10-09-2013, 01:17 PM
scotp71
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I'm not saying I wouldn't try a few of these tips to save a mpg or two, but in the end I agree with what a couple people on here have already said: It's a Jeep and mpg sucks. End of story.
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post #50 of 54 Old 10-09-2013, 03:33 PM
crunchie
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Removing my front driveshaft to fix the "angry sparrows" problem on my TJ bought me a little more than 1 mpg. Obviously this makes your rig a 2WD, but if you're using it as a daily driver, you'll get some coin back if you do this between off-road excursions. Switching to straight 87 also did about 1.1 mpg better. We've got cheap 87 (with 10% ethanol) in Iowa and straight 87 (no ethanol). Last tank I ran 17.7 mpg (mixed city and highway, commuting) with my 2006 Rubicon. First time I've beat the EPA highway rating!

Having locking hubs would eliminate the need to remove the driveshaft for savings, but the last time I priced those out for my front D44 they were in about the $1500-$2000 territory

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post #51 of 54 Old 10-18-2013, 06:07 PM
holysirsalad
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- synthetic diff lube
- get rid of those seized bearings
- make sure brakes don't drag
- take a poo before driving
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post #52 of 54 Old 10-18-2013, 08:16 PM
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Only drive south. Its always down hill on every globe I have ever seen. That should be good for an extra 5-7mpg.
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post #53 of 54 Old 10-18-2013, 10:31 PM
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Not if youre leaving the north pole, its uphill half way.

I'm the only gay eskimo.
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post #54 of 54 Old 10-29-2013, 12:34 PM
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I recall something I read back in the '80s or '90s that drag, or was it power needed, increased by the cube of the speed. I looked around for drag vrs velocity today and it at Wikipedia (note that air is considered a fluid in physics) "Note that the power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. A car cruising on a highway at 50 mph (80 km/h) may require only 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) to overcome air drag, but that same car at 100 mph (160 km/h) requires 80 hp (60 kW). With a doubling of speed the drag (force) quadruples per the formula. Exerting four times the force over a fixed distance produces four times as much work. At twice the speed the work (resulting in displacement over a fixed distance) is done twice as fast. Since power is the rate of doing work, four times the work done in half the time requires eight times the power. It's important to value the rolling resistance in relation to the drag force." (See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drag_%28physics%29 if you're interested.)

Essentially, slow down, but not too slow. Obviously, if you're idling, you're getting zero miles to the gallon so there is a better speed to get the best MPG. This is partially because overall the engine doesn't work as efficiently if you go too slow and with the aerodynamics of the cars back then (I forget when I read it) that the best speed is around 45mph. I haven't tested any speed/mpg as most of my driving isn't where I can maintain a speed.

The '89 Cherokee (not grand) does at best 16mpg. The J2K grand cherokee did around 20+ at 60-80mph with AC on and 87 octane 10%ethanol, Chicago to Munising MI. (I love driving with the windows open, but listening to stories on the radio/CD/MP3 is better with them closed.)
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