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Unread 03-18-2011, 06:06 PM   #76
EricsGreen98Tj
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So which color of CS is the best for body panels that are gonna get sprayed(OD Green BABY!) afterwards? I really want to CS my front fenders cause the last ones(OEM) rusted through in the same spot and I dont want that to happen again.

Also, once i CS the bottom of the tub is it OK to cover the CS with just plain rattle can paint so its easy to touch up?

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Unread 03-18-2011, 06:12 PM   #77
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Silver... since there will be texture. And, yes, it is fine to top with rattle cans specials.
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Unread 03-30-2011, 09:17 AM   #78
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Another question about using as primer..... is it best to be applied over bare metal? or Can it cover a mixture of bare metal, factory paint, and a little filler?

Also, if i plan on using this to cover the outside body, fenders,hood, etc.. and interior how much CS would be recommended?
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Unread 03-30-2011, 10:36 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by Jeepican View Post
Another question about using as primer..... is it best to be applied over bare metal? or Can it cover a mixture of bare metal, factory paint, and a little filler?

Also, if i plan on using this to cover the outside body, fenders,hood, etc.. and interior how much CS would be recommended?
Scuff bare metal with 50 - 60 grit, no wire wheeling as it burnishes and will not aid in adhesion
scuff factory paint with 120 grit, same with filler
must MEK wipe factory paint to ensure was removal

hard to give exact coverage other than 300 - 400 sq ft per gallon

frame alone 1 - 2 quarts, 2 thin coats minimum, minimum of 5 - 6 hrs between coats and before 24 hours or scuff with 320 - 400 between coats if cured more than 24 hrs
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Unread 03-30-2011, 01:06 PM   #80
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I see that some places its written to use the Silver/Aluminum CS as a base coat or primer, before doing the black CS. Is that needed? Or just a suggestion for a better outcome? I know it fills and smoothes holes, but I'm painting the frame in the Jeep before I swap it over. So im not concerned about a "smooth" finish on the frame as much as I am with a body.

Also does the satin black really look that grey color as in the pic on your site, or is it really black just a satin finish? Maybe someone has a pic of it after they used it they can post up.
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Unread 03-30-2011, 01:34 PM   #81
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Satin black looks like a satin black, not gray. It has a waxy sheen. As for the black over the silver, it is talking about like rattle can black because CS black is still not UV stable.
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Unread 03-30-2011, 02:58 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Jeepin_Dave View Post
I see that some places its written to use the Silver/Aluminum CS as a base coat or primer, before doing the black CS. Is that needed? Or just a suggestion for a better outcome? I know it fills and smoothes holes, but I'm painting the frame in the Jeep before I swap it over. So im not concerned about a "smooth" finish on the frame as much as I am with a body.

Also does the satin black really look that grey color as in the pic on your site, or is it really black just a satin finish? Maybe someone has a pic of it after they used it they can post up.
Confirmed as Luckrider stated. That's a bad photo.
Silver is optional
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Unread 03-30-2011, 05:27 PM   #83
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can you just monsta liner the underbody of a cherokee theres no way to sand it/i dont want to as theres factory bedline on there but itsthinning. how much for 1 gallon of black monsta? may be converting from herc to monsta since it seems flatter
get under there and sand it. I've been.
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Unread 03-30-2011, 05:39 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by Mark-96-XJ View Post
can you just monsta liner the underbody of a cherokee theres no way to sand it/i dont want to as theres factory bedline on there but itsthinning. how much for 1 gallon of black monsta? may be converting from herc to monsta since it seems flatter
sorry, missed this post

careful coating over factory liners. is it hard or soft?

1 gal kit is $134, free ship + free quart of Chassis Saver
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Unread 03-30-2011, 05:41 PM   #85
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get under there and sand it. I've been.
What's up Mr. Smith? Next time I open the tequilla at work I'll make Mrs. Smith a sample of bright pink
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Unread 03-30-2011, 06:07 PM   #86
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Oh boy... you will regret saying that
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Unread 03-30-2011, 07:03 PM   #87
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Oh boy... you will regret saying that
Whut I say?
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Unread 03-30-2011, 09:38 PM   #88
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What's up Mr. Smith? Next time I open the tequilla at work I'll make Mrs. Smith a sample of bright pink


been under my jeep trying to clean it up enough so i can put the nice coat of chassis saver on it. gonna snow the next couple days but this weekend, I plan on finishing up my gas tank paint too.
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Unread 04-02-2011, 03:43 PM   #89
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I figured instead of pming you, I'd post here for other people to gain the knowledge aswell.

How does chassis saver do with heat? Such as the engine bay / bottom of the hood.
I ask because there is rust in my engine bay, and Id like to paint as much of it as I can with chassis saver, if applicable.
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Unread 04-02-2011, 04:27 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by The_Blacksmith View Post
I figured instead of pming you, I'd post here for other people to gain the knowledge aswell.

How does chassis saver do with heat? Such as the engine bay / bottom of the hood.
I ask because there is rust in my engine bay, and Id like to paint as much of it as I can with chassis saver, if applicable.
No issues with heat on these surfaces. The only place that CS is not recommended is on surface of heat sources themselves like engine block and exhaust components.

Although someone told me that the silver they tested on a muffler is still holding up. Not sure how long it's been on there

Do I need to do lab tests/photos
Where's Ricky?
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