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Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread
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03-18-2011, 06:06 PM
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#76
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Elkins, West Virginia
Posts: 1,989
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So which color of CS is the best for body panels that are gonna get sprayed(OD Green BABY!) afterwards? I really want to CS my front fenders cause the last ones(OEM) rusted through in the same spot and I dont want that to happen again.
Also, once i CS the bottom of the tub is it OK to cover the CS with just plain rattle can paint so its easy to touch up?
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Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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03-18-2011, 06:12 PM
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#77
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Silver... since there will be texture. And, yes, it is fine to top with rattle cans specials.
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03-30-2011, 09:17 AM
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#78
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Gilmer, TX
Posts: 1,365
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Another question about using as primer..... is it best to be applied over bare metal? or Can it cover a mixture of bare metal, factory paint, and a little filler?
Also, if i plan on using this to cover the outside body, fenders,hood, etc.. and interior how much CS would be recommended?
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"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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03-30-2011, 10:36 AM
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#79
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepican
Another question about using as primer..... is it best to be applied over bare metal? or Can it cover a mixture of bare metal, factory paint, and a little filler?
Also, if i plan on using this to cover the outside body, fenders,hood, etc.. and interior how much CS would be recommended?
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Scuff bare metal with 50 - 60 grit, no wire wheeling as it burnishes and will not aid in adhesion
scuff factory paint with 120 grit, same with filler
must MEK wipe factory paint to ensure was removal
hard to give exact coverage other than 300 - 400 sq ft per gallon
frame alone 1 - 2 quarts, 2 thin coats minimum, minimum of 5 - 6 hrs between coats and before 24 hours or scuff with 320 - 400 between coats if cured more than 24 hrs
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03-30-2011, 01:06 PM
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#80
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Western Mass.
Posts: 37
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I see that some places its written to use the Silver/Aluminum CS as a base coat or primer, before doing the black CS. Is that needed? Or just a suggestion for a better outcome? I know it fills and smoothes holes, but I'm painting the frame in the Jeep before I swap it over. So im not concerned about a "smooth" finish on the frame as much as I am with a body.
Also does the satin black really look that grey color as in the pic on your site, or is it really black just a satin finish? Maybe someone has a pic of it after they used it they can post up.
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03-30-2011, 01:34 PM
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#81
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Satin black looks like a satin black, not gray. It has a waxy sheen. As for the black over the silver, it is talking about like rattle can black because CS black is still not UV stable.
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03-30-2011, 02:58 PM
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#82
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin_Dave
I see that some places its written to use the Silver/Aluminum CS as a base coat or primer, before doing the black CS. Is that needed? Or just a suggestion for a better outcome? I know it fills and smoothes holes, but I'm painting the frame in the Jeep before I swap it over. So im not concerned about a "smooth" finish on the frame as much as I am with a body.
Also does the satin black really look that grey color as in the pic on your site, or is it really black just a satin finish? Maybe someone has a pic of it after they used it they can post up.
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Confirmed as Luckrider stated. That's a bad photo.
Silver is optional
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03-30-2011, 05:27 PM
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#83
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 2,535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark-96-XJ
can you just monsta liner the underbody of a cherokee theres no way to sand it/i dont want to as theres factory bedline on there but itsthinning. how much for 1 gallon of black monsta? may be converting from herc to monsta since it seems flatter
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get under there and sand it. I've been.
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03-30-2011, 05:39 PM
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#84
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark-96-XJ
can you just monsta liner the underbody of a cherokee theres no way to sand it/i dont want to as theres factory bedline on there but itsthinning. how much for 1 gallon of black monsta? may be converting from herc to monsta since it seems flatter
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sorry, missed this post
careful coating over factory liners. is it hard or soft?
1 gal kit is $134, free ship + free quart of Chassis Saver
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03-30-2011, 05:41 PM
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#85
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Blacksmith
get under there and sand it. I've been.
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What's up Mr. Smith? Next time I open the tequilla at work I'll make Mrs. Smith a sample of bright pink
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03-30-2011, 06:07 PM
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#86
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Oh boy... you will regret saying that
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03-30-2011, 07:03 PM
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#87
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckRider
Oh boy... you will regret saying that 
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Whut I say?
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03-30-2011, 09:38 PM
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#88
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 2,535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
What's up Mr. Smith? Next time I open the tequilla at work I'll make Mrs. Smith a sample of bright pink
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been under my jeep trying to clean it up enough so i can put the nice coat of chassis saver on it. gonna snow the next couple days but this weekend, I plan on finishing up my gas tank paint too.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/replacing-floors-xj-pics-1122602/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/building-recovery-bumpers-pics-1184330/
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04-02-2011, 03:43 PM
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#89
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 2,535
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I figured instead of pming you, I'd post here for other people to gain the knowledge aswell.
How does chassis saver do with heat? Such as the engine bay / bottom of the hood.
I ask because there is rust in my engine bay, and Id like to paint as much of it as I can with chassis saver, if applicable.
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/replacing-floors-xj-pics-1122602/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/building-recovery-bumpers-pics-1184330/
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04-02-2011, 04:27 PM
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#90
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Blacksmith
I figured instead of pming you, I'd post here for other people to gain the knowledge aswell.
How does chassis saver do with heat? Such as the engine bay / bottom of the hood.
I ask because there is rust in my engine bay, and Id like to paint as much of it as I can with chassis saver, if applicable.
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No issues with heat on these surfaces. The only place that CS is not recommended is on surface of heat sources themselves like engine block and exhaust components.
Although someone told me that the silver they tested on a muffler is still holding up. Not sure how long it's been on there
Do I need to do lab tests/photos 
Where's Ricky?
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