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Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread

107K views 418 replies 78 participants last post by  magnetman 
#1 ·
Official CHASSIS SAVER™ Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Coating Thread

Got Rust?
 
#190 ·
So I finally got to a point where I could use some of the FREE Chassis Saver I got with my Monstaliner kits. With each kit of Monsta, you get a free quart of this Chassis Saver stuff. Well-temporarily anyway while the promo is going on anyway. Man, I have to say this stuff is incredible! Here's a few pics of the latest project. Was going to wait to do a full shot of the project totally completed as it will be done in Monstaliner as well, but this was just too cool to pass up, had to post these up now rather than later. Here's how it looked-a little before and after...







So I did that with the cheapest $1.99 3" brush at the local Ace Hardware. That is two coats of Chassis Saver on the tub, frame and fenders. I used up a full quart for the first coat, then only half the quart for the second. It really went on fast and smooth for the second coat. Lots of shadows and reflections due to the finish here but man this stuff looks good! This will be the base for the Monstaliner I put down tomorrow hopefully. For prep work, all I did was scrape off the loose flake stuff with a blade, then ran a grinder over the entire thing to get anything else that came off quick and dirty with the grinder. Some spots went to bare metal, some just took paint and rust. The Chassis Saver sealed this up and coated it very well. I'm VERY impressed with this stuff!!! So much so that I may need to buy a little more for a few other trailers I need to get done. This stuff is great!

Anyway, just had to share prior to the finished build. Hope you don't mind.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#192 ·
Fantastic post! Thanks for the pics. Can't wait to see that shat with Monstaliner on it. Nice work and awesome project!


NOTE ON THE CS PROMO THAT HAS BEEN ASKED FOR: We will have a decision on this soon and we will be doing something but I am not certian of the final details. We have over 2000 stores selling CS so please understand that we must have some discretion and loyalty to these customers.
 
#194 ·
I got free chassis saver with my Monstaliner kit, and didn't need to use any.

This thread has me itching for a project to use it on. The quart just sits on the shelf in the shed.

I'm this close to taking a grinding wheel to one of my cars just to see how well it works. LOL
 
#195 ·
Okay I don't know how well this is going to do anyone, but to me it was awesome.

I grabbed the paint bucket from the last time I painted under the jeep, couple months ago, that I wiped out with the brush so there wasnt much paint left. Anyways I started squeezing it, trying to get the paint to crack out of the inside like paint normally does, and I noticed it start to seperate in one spot. So I worked at it a little.











I don't know what it says to others, but to me it shows how durable and crack resistant this product is.
I knew it was hard to scratch, but now I know even without prep work, it should flex without cracking and flaking to a pretty good extent.
 
#197 ·
Funny you mentioned that-I went to re-use my roller tray that I had done the chassis saver in the other day with fresh Monsta and found the same thing. I went to crack it to pull it up and start the process of chipping away all the loose stuff so I wouldn't have little pieces in my new stuff. To my surprise, a small section popped loose from the tray so I started to pull, and out came the entire tray shaped piece of chassis saver in one complete, well formed replica of the tray itself-little dents and all. Was pretty cool, never had that happen like that before with anything else. I was amazed at how flexible it was as I was playing with it a bit in the shop before setting it aside. Should have taken a pic, but I think my boy tossed it in the trash when he was cleaning up everything else. Impressive to say the least. Nice to know how tough it really is. That bucket though is pretty cool-hard to believe it came out in the exact shape like that being all round. A tray liner is cool in itself and I was impressed with it, but for that shape to occur, now THAT is impressive!

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#198 ·
It was the same exact thing for me with the ML, but it cracked a little where thin. The ML is not quite as flexible.
 
#199 ·
That is correct. CS is quite unique like that

Wait till you see the cardboard box I'm turning into a goldfish bowl with the corrugated soaked in clear CS.

Cutting holes in sides and siliconing clear lexan windows so you can see inside.

Just going to be a conversation piece full of water and fish
 
#200 ·
That will be damn smexy. You can use it as a cool way to show how the CS seals metal to protect it from ever rusting.
 
#202 ·
I have another M416 tub I'd like to do in silver chassis saver as well, just can't afford it just yet. Going to talk with the owner next time I see him and show him the other black I've done, see if I can talk him into ordering it so I don't have to... :D Interested to see how well it covers the small little weld seams/cracks and the difference between it and the black. The black did incredible over the smaller stuff I had, then is really amazing coated again with the ML on the other tub I did. At least the outside. Haven't yet got the inside of the tub done. REALLy interested to see how that one turns out too with ML over it. This CS stuff is really an amazing product.

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#203 ·
Alright here are a before and after shot of the bottom of my tub. I fixed the holes, ground the OEM undercoating off, and put 2 coats of CS on it.

Before:



After:



I think that it made a 100% change for the good! I also did the underside of my front fenders, the brackets that hold the fenders to the tub and the engine bay. I didnt take pics of that though. When I crawl under my Tj now EVERYTHING is Chassis Saved! Tub, frame, inner fenders, engine bay, EVERYTHING! (except the gastank skid and case skid that are gonna be replaced with some aftermarket products)
 
#209 ·
No, I meant the Chassis Saver that this thread is about. :p

Sorry to confuse.

You mentioned it starting to gray at some point, so I went with the Silver. But my question is, how long before we'd need to reapply this stuff? Just a general answer, I'm aware that the NE would need it monthly in the winter.
 
#211 ·
Black turns color in direct sun exposure, meaning facing the sun
Underbody does not change that much except in wheel wells where sun gets in

Silver is different because it starts off dull and the aluminum does not change much

If you put 3 thin coats of silver I have seen it stay nice for 7 + years

Biggest mistake people make with CS is putting 1 coat and thinking they are done. Where high peaks of remaining rust and rough areas are too close to the top of the dry film, moisture can get back in and start rusting again so final film thickness is important to make sure surfaces are sealed in well
 
#214 ·
Hmmmm sounds like that could be really different
If I was going to do silver CS on the under sides, (I only have a quart) could I put a coat or two of black first and overlay the silver as a top coat (I have a gallon of black cs) or will the quart do me for two or three quarts under neath?

Also as I am doing this from underneath, out of curiosity How is CS with heat, do I need to take extreme care to not get any on my exhaust while I am covering the rest?

And a Final note , Magnetman, do not know if you recall we talked about the Harbor Freight LVLP Gun that only had a 2.0 nozzle......I rolled the dice and got one in and will be trying it with the CS, Yes I will keep you posted Not ready to do it yet but not too far away!
 
#216 ·
Hmmmm sounds like that could be really different
If I was going to do silver CS on the under sides, (I only have a quart) could I put a coat or two of black first and overlay the silver as a top coat (I have a gallon of black cs) or will the quart do me for two or three quarts under neath?

Also as I am doing this from underneath, out of curiosity How is CS with heat, do I need to take extreme care to not get any on my exhaust while I am covering the rest?

And a Final note , Magnetman, do not know if you recall we talked about the Harbor Freight LVLP Gun that only had a 2.0 nozzle......I rolled the dice and got one in and will be trying it with the CS, Yes I will keep you posted Not ready to do it yet but not too far away!
You can put the silver over the black and you may only need 1 quart under so it's your choice. You can also break up gallon into some new quart cans from Hm Dep or paint store to save spoiling full gal.

No problem with CS and heat. Won't burn when dry and any on the exhaust will just change over time and constant heat

Remember the 2.0 gun, do let me know how that works.
 
#215 ·
So it sounds like this silver CS fills small cracks/voids nicely? I'm wondering if I might be better off ordering this silver do to my buddies M416 tub with as a base. He's thinking he wants to have Maaco shoot a cheap matching paint on it to match his JK color. Would it be good for that? The tub has a lot of weld work done on it now and seeing how good the black CS did over my tub, it nearly wiped them all out entirely and especially with the Monsta over the top. I grafted a Jeep logo to the back of the tub and hard a really hard time with smoothing out the rounded corners I have a few tiny little cracks and I know after working with the black CS it would do great and cover them nicely. Just thinking maybe I should try the silver and see the differences between it and black, then also be easier to coat over with a white paint. I'll probably prime with magnapoxy as well so the paint can stick good but would it be necessary?

Decided I'd wait and put up pics of the two trailers after I get all the stuff back on them-fenders, doors, etc... Will look a little better that way even though I still have a lot of work left to do on them...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#217 ·
CS silver fills some but it not thick at all, actually it's thnner than black. It just works different and looks diff over rusty metal than black

So it sounds like this silver CS fills small cracks/voids nicely? I'm wondering if I might be better off ordering this silver do to my buddies M416 tub with as a base. He's thinking he wants to have Maaco shoot a cheap matching paint on it to match his JK color. Would it be good for that? The tub has a lot of weld work done on it now and seeing how good the black CS did over my tub, it nearly wiped them all out entirely and especially with the Monsta over the top. I grafted a Jeep logo to the back of the tub and hard a really hard time with smoothing out the rounded corners I have a few tiny little cracks and I know after working with the black CS it would do great and cover them nicely. Just thinking maybe I should try the silver and see the differences between it and black, then also be easier to coat over with a white paint. I'll probably prime with magnapoxy as well so the paint can stick good but would it be necessary?

Decided I'd wait and put up pics of the two trailers after I get all the stuff back on them-fenders, doors, etc... Will look a little better that way even though I still have a lot of work left to do on them...

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
#220 ·
Quick question about CS Application temps.

I know there is a minimum application temp, what about a max?

It's been around 95-103 here in the St. Louis area for the past 2 weeks(feels like years), along with very high humidity. I hope to start painting the inside of my tub next weekend with CS as a primer for Monstaliner. Any reason I should wait until it cools down before I apply the CS?

Only place I can paint is outside. Painting in the drive in basement wouldn't go over so well...
 
#222 ·
Quick question about CS Application temps.

I know there is a minimum application temp, what about a max?

It's been around 95-103 here in the St. Louis area for the past 2 weeks(feels like years), along with very high humidity. I hope to start painting the inside of my tub next weekend with CS as a primer for Monstaliner. Any reason I should wait until it cools down before I apply the CS?

Only place I can paint is outside. Painting in the drive in basement wouldn't go over so well...
No reason to wait unless you rather sleep or be at the beach

Applying CS in hotter temps will just make to dry faster to recoat. You just don't want to paint HOT surfaces that were sitting in sun. Need to find some shade or work before sun gets too high say past 10-11AM
 
#223 ·
Well sad day-I just used up about 1/2 of my last quart of Chassis Saver on the last M416 tub/fenders, etc. In about 5 hours, I'll have no more... :( This stuff is cool! Has been great for these projects here lately. Kinda sad I'm out now... OH well, means more Magnapoxy then Monsta to go... :laugh:

Best of Luck,

Mike
 
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