Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 02:31 AM
Boodyrider
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or maybe you mean the black Chassis Saver I painted the tank with? Sandblasted first.




97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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post #47 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 02:33 AM
Boodyrider
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Or maybe you mean the black Chassis Saver on the block? Sandblasted with manifolds removed and a custom cover plate for the ports, taped off distributor and valve cover. Sprayed.


97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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post #48 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 02:36 AM
Boodyrider
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Or how about the Chassis Saver in both silver and black, with Monsta over the black only, that I sprayed the firewall with?


97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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post #49 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 02:43 AM
Boodyrider
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or is it possible you mean using Black Chassis Saver as exterior primer, over which I'll use Evercoat Rage to get the body smooth, then a 2K primer/surfacer, then base/clear urethane Chestnut Brown Metallic?

PS... is cured Chassis Saver a suitable base for virtually anything, as a 2k epoxy primer would be? I'd hate to take it off... but the paint job's gonna cost too much to have it fail if CS isn't a suitable base for literally any of the newer fillers, primers, and paints.


Point: These pictures are NOT good enough to see the blemishes. While CS is thick, it will NOT fill deeper stuff, though it does seem to be conducive to block sanding with 120.



97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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post #50 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 08:55 AM
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Somebody sure seems to have raided the Monstaliner/Chassis Saver bins Looks awesome. That thing should never have rust again.

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post #51 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
Monstaliner on the bottom, two coats over two coats silver Chassis Saver.
I brushed and rolled the Monstaliner. Didn't want to try to spray it as cold as my work area was.


Excellent! Thank you so much!
Looks great
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post #52 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 03:34 PM
rlfa83
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Order Placed!
Thanks Again Cant wait to use the CS!
By the way - how long do you think it will take, shipping wise, to get to Ohio?
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post #53 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 06:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckRider View Post
Somebody sure seems to have raided the Monstaliner/Chassis Saver bins Looks awesome. That thing should never have rust again.
That's the plan. Dad's last Jeep rusted badly over its 30 year life in the US Virgin Islands. This one is being built specifically to survive tropical weather, which means FAR more UV and salt spray than anything here in the states, short of a salt truck.

Besides... I want the CJ back when Dad gets done with it in 30 or 40 years.

97 TJ Sport - 4.0/HP D30 w ARB/8.8 w LS/4.88s; 35s and flat fenders on 2.5 lift

84 CJ7; frame off restoration in progress.

The technical advice you get from me here is worth exactly what you paid me for it. Warranty issues will be reimbursed at double what you paid me for the advice.
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post #54 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Originally Posted by rlfa83 View Post
Order Placed!
Thanks Again Cant wait to use the CS!
By the way - how long do you think it will take, shipping wise, to get to Ohio?
Thanks for your business!

If we ship tomorrow you may have it Monday or Tues. If we don't ship till Mon it will likely be Wed next week. Can't guarantee shipping tomorrow. UPS is all backed up from storm delay
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post #55 of 404 Old 01-27-2011, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
That's the plan. Dad's last Jeep rusted badly over its 30 year life in the US Virgin Islands. This one is being built specifically to survive tropical weather, which means FAR more UV and salt spray than anything here in the states, short of a salt truck.

Besides... I want the CJ back when Dad gets done with it in 30 or 40 years.
You should visit the town that I went to school in when the snow flies. It snows salt there. Far worse than a beach cruiser (I have seen many beach cruisers spending time at my Grandfather's in Daytona. It is the only beach you can drive on every single day. They hold nothing to some of the rust rigs I have seen here at school and at home).

Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Thanks for your business!

If we ship tomorrow you may have it Monday or Tues. If we don't ship till Mon it will likely be Wed next week. Can't guarantee shipping tomorrow. UPS is all backed up from storm delay
What is it like by you. We aren't really getting anything here, but I heard they were getting ~6" at home. You must be around there too then.

Thanks to SuperWade2 For the 1 Year Upgrade!
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post #56 of 404 Old 01-28-2011, 11:05 AM
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Interested in CS for a Tundra and a Jeep. My question is this: If I buy a gallon and start the Jeep, then get the craps of being under the vehicle after one's done, will the CS stay good on the gallon jug for a while? Is there anything that can be done to extend the shelf life after the can has been open?

Also, is eBay your best deal?

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post #57 of 404 Old 01-28-2011, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoBlue View Post
Interested in CS for a Tundra and a Jeep. My question is this: If I buy a gallon and start the Jeep, then get the craps of being under the vehicle after one's done, will the CS stay good on the gallon jug for a while? Is there anything that can be done to extend the shelf life after the can has been open?

Also, is eBay your best deal?
We bought a quart of the stuff last summer. We cracked it open, used some of it and put the lid back on. For the last oh, 7 months or so it was sitting outside. We cracked the can open, still liquid and fine. We actually used it to paint some wheels.

We THEN poured that into a glass mason jar and stored that in our laundry room. Went to pour it out 2 months later. Nothing came out!! We poked at it because we thought it was all solid. Punched a hole through the top "crust" and it still poured liquid on the bottom.
That little "crust" layer it had was TOUGH man. Took a screw driver and hammer to punch through it LOL

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post #58 of 404 Old 01-30-2011, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGoBlue View Post
Interested in CS for a Tundra and a Jeep. My question is this: If I buy a gallon and start the Jeep, then get the craps of being under the vehicle after one's done, will the CS stay good on the gallon jug for a while? Is there anything that can be done to extend the shelf life after the can has been open?

Also, is eBay your best deal?
See the Chassis Saver tech bulletin here:
http://www.magnetpaints.com/MSDS-TECH/TDS_UCP99.pdf

It discusses pouring a small amount of reducer on top of the remaining liquid in the can before you reclose it to put up for future use. The method works.

You just need to be clean about opening and resealing the can. Clean the lip out before resealing.
Lay plastic wrap over the open can before slamming the lid back on. It's all in the bulletin. Let me know if you have further questions.

Ebay is the best deal with free shipping. Because we are the manufacturer I can't sell it for less other than promos when we give it free with Monstaliner purchases.
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post #59 of 404 Old 02-27-2011, 06:57 PM
EricsGreen98Tj
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Hey I'm gonna be putting a decent used frame under my 98 Tj and since i live in WV, I want to make this theLASTtime i have to put a frame under my baby How do you go about coating the inside of the frame with CS?

Also while i have the body tore apart for the frame swap im gonna paint the bottom and inside of the tub with CS. So with the inside and outside of the frame, the bottom of the tub and the inside of the tub about how much CS do you think i will need?

Do i need to paint/spray anything over the CS i'm gonna put on/in the frame? will it chip off? is it UV stable?

Lastly(bear with me)I want to Monstaline the inside of the tub only. How much of the Monsta am i going to need?

Thanks for ANY info, advise or tips to this rust preventing/stopping process i want to to my Tj

Building my junk with more junk, so Im always on the look out for more junk....Free to cheap preferably. :D
My junk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/survivor-project-driveway-frame-swap-33s-build-1280626/index3.html
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post #60 of 404 Old 02-27-2011, 07:08 PM
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My advice, read all of the instruction. For the liner: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/mo...ite-up-901675/
You only need 1 gallon of liner to do the inside of the tub. There was someone who did the entire underneath of the tub with chassis saver so MagnetMan or him should be able to tell you how much you need for that.

Thanks to SuperWade2 For the 1 Year Upgrade!
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ALL WK2 Owners, Click Here
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2004 Rubi: Ready to Kill the Chrome!
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Do the Jeep Wave :D 0|||||||0 Take 95% of what I say as a joke/sarcasm!-Thomas
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Frame rust , frame rust paint how , monstaliner , POR 15 , por15 , rust prevention , rust proofing , rust repair

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