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Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread

107K views 418 replies 78 participants last post by  magnetman 
#1 ·
Official CHASSIS SAVER™ Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Coating Thread

Got Rust?
 
#136 ·
For the underside of my YJ, certainly needs paint or undercoating, I am thinking CS sounds like a good choice.

Would it be good prep to pressure wash the undersides, brush off any remaining loose remnants, pressure wash again, let dry, then go to town starting to paint?

If not, what is the best means of prep for the CS, I am not removing tub/body just working from underneath.
 
#137 ·
Earlier in the thread it states to scuff factory paint(on the frame) with 120 grit sandpaper) before you apply CS.

Hey I just ordered a gallon of CS in black with a quart of reducer off the ebay page last night (sunday). IS there any chance you can get it to me ASAP? I'm gonna try and swap my frame next week and want to have the frame "Saved" and ready to go by monday.....The order was for Lock in WV.
 
#139 ·
Magnetman,

Im finally ready to coat my frame with chassis saver... quick question for you....

I have a couple cans of MEK I am going to use to wipe down all of the surfaces I'm going to paint. I do not however have any Xylene laying around (thought I did) to do a solvent float to save the chassis saver for a another project in a couple weeks. Can I use MEK for the solvent float instead?? Thanks!
 
#141 ·
youll be happier with MEK. It cleans the brushes really good and cleans everything really nicely.

UPDATE on chassis saver, ive been beating the hell out of the chassis saver in the back of my jeep, because im lining over it anyways, so i wanted to give the proper feedback.

I've dragged tools across it thrown tools into it, dragged a tank around and steel around as I worked on stuff. I have managed to scratch the chassis saver finally, but only on the surface. there are no places where it looks like more than a white line , such as marring. Nothing goes thru to the metal under it.

this stuff is tougher than appliance paint BY FAR.

I've never seen paint stick this good, and my prep work was good, but i did not sand blast so it could have been better prep work. So im sooo impressed.
 
#146 ·
Just coated 99% of the inside of my frame.
Tape all of the holes, except one at the top frame side, closest to the front and one closest to the back, you will be pouring paint into these.
Buy a car washing sponge, that's inside of a microfiber cover or something, should be fuzzy but shouldnt fall apart. A regular car wash sponge will not work! Run nylon rope through the frame and back to where you started. Tie said sponge around the middle with the rope. You will need to shove it into the frame and be able to move it back and forth, so trimming of the inside sponge may be necessary, but do not leave any exposed sponge! Shove it inside of the frame from the back. Move it until the sponge is visible through the rearmost top frame hole. Pour some chassis saver in front of the sponge, pull it through a bit and there should be a groove in themiddle of the sponge where you tied it, pour some more in there, then pull the sponge all the way through to the front. Be sure to catch the excess CS pouring out of the front and recycle it. Then do the same thing with the frontmost hole at the top of the frame, and pull the sponge through again.
I did this 4 times. 6 would be better. Let it dry, longer than usual, I would say a good 8 hours, after the first 4 untape the holes.
Then repeat this after 8 hours for best results. I only did this once because I didn't figure out how to do this the right way the first time.

I used about half a quart per side, its messy and wasteful, but it sure coats the inside of a rusty frame well!

As far as prep work.
Pressure wash until you can drink the water coming out, get all the loose rust out.
I sprayed some jasco prep and prime rust remover on the inside of the frame very generously and let stand overnight.
Wash it out well, let dry over night and start early in the morning!
I love chassis saver!

Also, the coats done this way are thin, Perfect.
 
#147 ·
Magnet, I am about to spray my second coat of CS then will be top coating with PlastiKote epoxy paint, how long should I let the CS dry before top coating? Couldn't find it on the can...
 
#151 ·
What is MEK? and where do i find it at? What else can I use to clean the frame after I've sanded it? Acetone? Paint thinner? Turpentine? Mineral Spirits?

Will the foam paint brushes work to apply CS? What about polyester brushes? The can says use nylon brushes but I cant find any brushes with nylon bristles....

Also can I use a roller to apply CS to the bottom of my Tub? It would make it alot quicker to do....
 
#152 ·
Methyl Ethyl Ketone is a solvent. In the paint dept of every Home Depot and Lowes

Acetone works, No turps
Min Spirits can be used to wipe surfaces but just let it evaporate 1 hour before putting CS on surface. Xylol also works and is available where MEK is sold usually. NEVER USE LACQUER THINNER anywhere near Chassis Saver. It can have alcohols in it and make CS not cure correctly.

Foam brushes work, polyester is good also, forget nylon that's old info

You can roll if you go very slow not to make bubbles and must use a very low nap roller. Foam rollers work well
 
#153 ·
Are you able to just paint right over the rust right?

Obviously after just knocking off the heavy loose but leaving the rest? does it convert it?

What i plan on doing is wire brushing most of the rust i might have painting it with the Chassis saver including axles and spring perches,

undercoat the jeep with the Chassis saver.

Problem is i already have some 3m undercoating spray on there should i try and get that off? or clean it super well and paint over it.

i found this one time pulling up my carpet dry it out damn rain. so trying to be as proactive as possible
 
#157 ·
OK I'm DONE with the sanding and cleaning. going to use MEK to do a final solvent clean then brush CS on. How long should I wait to paint after rubbing the MEK on? Obviously I want to let it evaporate but how long? Its says to wait 1hr for Acetone on the can and MEK is slower to evap than acetone.....HELP!
 
#159 ·
LOL...ok that's what I wanted to know. Thanks man. IF my garden sprayer idea works I'll post up a pic or two of it. Mabey a video if I can figure out how to do that:D Later man
 
#165 ·
Well, I got the second coat of CS on the outside of the frame today. With 2 full thin coats on the frame I have only used a little more than a quart. And only 3 paint brushes :). One 3" wide and two 1" wide detail brushes. Im gonna try the garden sprayer with my own personal twist to it in the morning. I really hope that it works.

BTW-I didnt have any Glad Wrap to cover the top of the can with before replacing the lid. I did use wax papaer and it seems to be working ok so far.
 
#166 ·
Well, I got the second coat of CS on the outside of the frame today. With 2 full thin coats on the frame I have only used a little more than a quart. And only 3 paint brushes :). One 3" wide and two 1" wide detail brushes. Im gonna try the garden sprayer with my own personal twist to it in the morning. I really hope that it works.

BTW-I didnt have any Glad Wrap to cover the top of the can with before replacing the lid. I did use wax papaer and it seems to be working ok so far.
Careful with the garden sprayer, I diluted with 20% xylol and still had to toss the sprayer AND it sprayed a jet rather than mist which was the problem. A few posts back I described how to paint the inside well. It worked great, I'm VERY happy to have chassis saver on the inside of my frame, now I know the road salt won't do anything to it. When I washed my frame inside, I had chunks of rust so big they couldn't come out of the frame.
 
#167 ·
Ordered CS tonight, the plans are to put the YJ up on Jack Stands, clean up underneath as best I can and scuff well as needed, Was Planning to be brushing this stuff all over the undersides covering all that I can.

Should I plan on applying with a brush (or sponge brush) or should I plan on getting an inexpensive HVLP Gun and spray it? Which will do the more thorough covering remembering I will be laying on the ground working underneath? Any other suggestions/tips (and yes I have read most of these posts and a million others, And I have been studying Monstaliner threads as well (I am doing interior of tub with the Monstaliner, having hard time deciding roll or spray with that as well ) Reading all this my brain is a blurry mush which is why I am asking!

Also do I worry about getting it on underside fasteners, or just coat it all?
 
#169 ·
If I spray it I am wondering if I should use
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/household-low-volume-low-pressure-spray-gun-92841.html

or

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-to...ow-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

I was thinking the under cup of the first gun could be handy working under under the Jeep, not having a cup sticking up and in the way But then I wonder if the 2.0 nozzle will be way to large for the CS.......

It does make sense spraying would get in more places and protect better though, has not been anyone else sharing but that may be the way I should go over the brushing, just got to decide what to spray it with
 
#173 ·
Yeah I gave up one putting CS on the inside of my frame :( how did you get the sponges into the frame? there is a crossmember on both ends of the frame???

Anyway a pic or two...

Before:



After:




I was gonna do the axle housings with CS too, but i dont think the stock skid(AKA shovel),D35 or LP D30 will be under my "new" Tj for long.....come on tax season!! :D

I do have one more question: Can you put Bondo over top of the Gloss Black CS? Will it stick to it if I sand the CS? Or shoud I Bondo first then CS over the Bondo?
 
#174 ·
Started to apply my chassis saver on all the replaced floor and repair work. This stuff is great! I got the left and right outside the uni-rails done had to call it quits on the day been at it since 9 am till 230 am... So much for vacation time hahaha. Last pic is the before chassis saver and after all the welding and cutting.
 

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#180 ·
Yeah mine was somewhat bad but nothin near what i have seen from some xjs on here all i had to do was the rear hatch area and replaced some of the unibody rail on the old bumpstops and plated the gas tank cut out. Back at it tomorrow in the 115 heat index :brickwall
 
#186 ·
I'm in need of more CS, although a gallon would be way to much.I would be interested in buy one get one in the quart sizes if you decided to do it. A local parts store started carrying CS on it's shelves so that makes it easy to buy now local! I'll hold off on buying it for a couple days in case you decide to make a deal
 
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