Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread - Page 27 - JeepForum.com

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post #391 of 406 Old 08-05-2014, 12:51 PM
7xes
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Do you think rustoleum hammered would be good as a top coat for cs?

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post #392 of 406 Old 03-06-2015, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
We begin work this month on a salt removal product to treat surfaces with before painting. Will have photos of what we do with/without treatment. More info to be posted as we move forward. Stay tuned...

Any news on this?


After this winter I have a lot rust rehabilitation to do and I don't want to seal in salts if doing so wound be bad....
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post #393 of 406 Old 03-09-2015, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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We're still working on this.

OMNIMAN or whoever posted yesterday with pics.. where did your post go?
That was some good info.
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post #394 of 406 Old 03-11-2015, 01:01 PM
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We're still working on this.

OMNIMAN or whoever posted yesterday with pics.. where did your post go?
That was some good info.

The pics of the shocks coated with woodworking poly and flash rust?

That was me. I can put them back, Since that stuff is so different from the Chassis Saver, I didn't want to cause confusion. When I did the test and posted the results I thought it was basically just a clear version of a similar formula....
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post #395 of 406 Old 03-11-2015, 03:23 PM
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Here's another question related to rust and salts that may still be on the metal.

My understanding is that the silver Chassis Saver is supposed to encapsulate better due the the aluminum flakes in the paint. If the surface is cleaned as much as possible (scrub , power wash, wire brush) does the silver Chassis Saver significantly improve the chances of keeping the rust at bay?

If no moisture or air can get to the salt, won't that stop it from further damage?
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post #396 of 406 Old 04-03-2015, 04:14 PM
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Fiberglass Cloth???

What about using fiberglass cloth with Chassis Saver? For example two coats of CS followed by a couple of coats of CS with glass. This is for an oil pan - that cannot be removed without also removing the engine. The glass is for piece of mind because the rust is pretty bad in the corner and I'm afraid of pinholes or even a coin sized weak area. When I push on the worst spot I can hear a little "crunch".....


Here's the corner where the glass would go:




[EDIT]
It looks like POR15 claims that fiberglass can be used and I've seen at least one person document using it with success. They suggested carefully soaking the glass and then applying it vs trying to wet it out in place. They also gave the impression that the the paint was not that tacky (like a boat epoxy for example). Given that, I wonder if it it's tacky enough to hold up the wet out glass?

If it may not be tacky enough then what are my options for some kind of release agent (that can be scuffed at panted over). For example would wax paper work where I get everything applied in just the smallish area to be re-enforced and then apply wax paper (or other release material) and tape it to hold it in place / prevent sagging.
[/EDIT]
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post #397 of 406 Old 04-04-2015, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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post #398 of 406 Old 04-04-2015, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Fiberglass cloth and Chassis Saver works well for some things but I'm not sure how long it would last for what you describe.

Look here
http://www.aremco.com/high-temp-restoration-products/


Quote:
Originally Posted by ekim View Post
What about using fiberglass cloth with Chassis Saver? For example two coats of CS followed by a couple of coats of CS with glass. This is for an oil pan - that cannot be removed without also removing the engine. The glass is for piece of mind because the rust is pretty bad in the corner and I'm afraid of pinholes or even a coin sized weak area. When I push on the worst spot I can hear a little "crunch".....


Here's the corner where the glass would go:




[EDIT]
It looks like POR15 claims that fiberglass can be used and I've seen at least one person document using it with success. They suggested carefully soaking the glass and then applying it vs trying to wet it out in place. They also gave the impression that the the paint was not that tacky (like a boat epoxy for example). Given that, I wonder if it it's tacky enough to hold up the wet out glass?

If it may not be tacky enough then what are my options for some kind of release agent (that can be scuffed at panted over). For example would wax paper work where I get everything applied in just the smallish area to be re-enforced and then apply wax paper (or other release material) and tape it to hold it in place / prevent sagging.
[/EDIT]
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post #399 of 406 Old 04-04-2015, 12:42 PM
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Thanks!!,

Should I be looking at the epoxies (Aremco-Bond ~400 degrees), or the single stage higher temp stuff (Corr-Paint ~1400 degrees).

I would think for an oil pain 400 degrees should be more than enough.

Is it the oil pan temp that's an issue for CS?

[edit]
I did some more reading. Given my limited knowledge, I would go for the CP2070 Epoxy. Its got a continious duty rating of 300 degrees F and has a higher viscosity(800-1000) than Urethane based version in the 20xxx series(200-500). I suspect this will make it stay on the bottom sides a little better and have more tackiness for the glass.

Sorry to be asking about a product that not yours.... I did already buy some CS and still intend to use it on a frame job - so you're still helping out a customer..


Better yet - can i use the CS with no glass for not to at less stop the progression of rust asap and then figure out what I want to do with fiberglass later? for the areas I want to glass I can just abrade the CS and apply whatever product I end up with. Should that plan work ok?

As far as I know the CS is good for temps up to 400 degrees right?



[/edit]
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post #400 of 406 Old 04-04-2015, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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If I were you I would call Aremco and tell them what you are doing. Let them recommend a product.
Your main concern is the weak spot you found and I think maybe a metal filled epoxy putty to reinforce that spot would be best.

Epoxy will have far better adhesion than any urethane.

CS is not considered a high heat product for continuous or long term heat exposure. You want to do this right without inventing some technique and hope it stays put.
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post #401 of 406 Old 04-04-2015, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
If I were you I would call Aremco and tell them what you are doing. Let them recommend a product.
Your main concern is the weak spot you found and I think maybe a metal filled epoxy putty to reinforce that spot would be best.

Epoxy will have far better adhesion than any urethane.

CS is not considered a high heat product for continuous or long term heat exposure. You want to do this right without inventing some technique and hope it stays put.
I'll call them first thing Monday. Thanks for helping me out.
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post #402 of 406 Old 09-14-2015, 08:40 PM
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Any update on the salt treatment also what promos are you running for cs?
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post #403 of 406 Old 09-15-2015, 08:38 AM
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Magnetman,

How's Chassis Saver hold up to high temps once it's cured? I'm thinking undercoat with it but I'm worried about proximity to exhaust and a warm AW4 tranny.

Lifted, Locked, Stiffened
Build
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post #404 of 406 Old 09-16-2015, 09:46 AM
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Chassis Saver under Monstaliner

Chassis Saver under Monstaliner!
I applied two coats of Chassis Saver over the entire inside and outside of the tub, windshield frame, tail gate, fenders, hood, and doors. I did not coat the underside as it was in excellent condition with the original undercoating. I used gloss black everywhere except the engine compartment which i did in grey.
2 1/2 years later all is holding up well!!










Lots of scuffing!!



and then spraying.




After/Before picture


I need to strip this trailer and Chassis Saver it next!!!

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post #405 of 406 Old 09-02-2016, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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2016 Labor Day Weekend Blowout Has Begun!
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cs-241-laborday2016.jpg

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Colors/Finishes available are as follows:

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Topcoat if desired to retain glossy finish or to change color using any industrial grade oil base enamel or an
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UCP934 Silver-Aluminum - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Topcoating is not needed unless change of color is desired.

UCP98 Floor & Machine Gray - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Topcoat if desired to retain glossy finish or to change color using any industrial grade oil base enamel or an automotive grade
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Note: Chassis Saverô can be topcoated with itself or any other solvent base coating within 24 hours with no additional surface prep.
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CHASSIS SAVERô Tech Bulletin
CHASSIS SAVERô Material Safety Data Sheet
------------------------------------------------------------------
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Frame rust , frame rust paint how , monstaliner , POR 15 , por15 , rust prevention , rust proofing , rust repair

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