Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread - Page 26 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 08-26-2013, 06:57 PM   #376
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigdude408 View Post
Here's my cs project

I have two spots that can be covered up by a dollar, not soft, I can't peck through it, just bubbled.
Think cs will help? Or am I waisting my time? I'm putting a nice ml chip gaurd along the bottom of the truck too.
There's moisture behind those bubbles. Need to knock the bubbles off and get to the rust to do the right job

Is ML going over that spot also?

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Unread 08-26-2013, 08:44 PM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
There's moisture behind those bubbles. Need to knock the bubbles off and get to the rust to do the right job

Is ML going over that spot also?
Of course I'm turning into a monstajunky. Think a wire wheele would get to it? Or sand the pi$$ out of her.
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Unread 08-26-2013, 09:20 PM   #378
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Of course I'm turning into a monstajunky. Think a wire wheele would get to it? Or sand the pi$$ out of her.
Just use 50 or 60 grit and sand the pi$$ out of it till you hit clean steel. At that point it will be rough enough for CS to stick no problem
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Unread 12-06-2013, 08:42 AM   #379
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Any new or up coming deals on some CS ? Ill been needing some here very soon for my newest project


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Unread 12-06-2013, 09:50 AM   #380
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Magnet, did you ever find anything more about rust prevention in the presence of Chloride Salts? I just covered corrosion in one of my classes and there is no doubt that the presence of a salt at the surface of steel greatly increases the chances of oxidation. Apparently some products use Zinc as a "sacrificial anode" to shed electrons instead of the Iron in the steel, if you have found a reliable way to removed these dissolved salts from our steel I am all ears!
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Unread 02-06-2014, 06:26 PM   #381
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Originally Posted by 2000GrayTJ View Post
Magnet, did you ever find anything more about rust prevention in the presence of Chloride Salts? I just covered corrosion in one of my classes and there is no doubt that the presence of a salt at the surface of steel greatly increases the chances of oxidation. Apparently some products use Zinc as a "sacrificial anode" to shed electrons instead of the Iron in the steel, if you have found a reliable way to removed these dissolved salts from our steel I am all ears!
We begin work this month on a salt removal product to treat surfaces with before painting. Will have photos of what we do with/without treatment. More info to be posted as we move forward. Stay tuned...
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Unread 04-16-2014, 08:19 PM   #382
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I am about to paint my undercarriage with chassis saver. I have scraped and scrubbed all the old undercoating i can get off. There are spots i cant get to and some of it is hard and not rubbery. Will it be ok to paint c.s. over it.? I have about 90% of it off and i dont think i can remove the rest without pulling the tub and sandblasting it.
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Unread 04-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
We begin work this month on a salt removal product to treat surfaces with before painting. Will have photos of what we do with/without treatment. More info to be posted as we move forward. Stay tuned...
Very cool I look forward to seeing the results.
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Unread 04-24-2014, 10:57 PM   #384
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any specials on a couple gallons of this stuff?
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Unread 04-26-2014, 03:49 PM   #385
Bigdude408
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I have spots of surface rust on my safari cage, I'm going to coat with the quart of cs that I got Free with the purchase of mc for my tub.
I took a wire wheel to the rust and sand paper to prep for cs. What should I wipe it down with? Paint thinner? Some kind of quick dry cleaner?
It's silver, so I'm planning on going back over with some black paint.
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Unread 04-29-2014, 08:13 AM   #386
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How do you get the free shipping and free chassis saver promo.
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Unread 06-26-2014, 08:06 AM   #387
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I know this is an older thread but I am sure someone will benefit from my response so please no flaming, this is a great question and I didn't see it answered properly as I read through this thread, it's basic material prep 101 that's causing your problem, I am an inspector in the Marine (shipbuilding) industry and this is a problem we had to deal with over the years, paint is staying in the flat areas but coming off around edges and in any spot on the flats that have a high spot (weld spatter or poorly feather old paint edges, or just some scaly rust bulidup that didn't come off during prep,etc...), the problem is those raised spots and sharp edges cause the paint to lay thinner especially with a self leveling product such as Chassis Saver, and these areas are also subject to more abrasion due to the very small surface area, the solution is to BREAK (meaning chamfer these edges to a small radius rather than a sharp corner, this also reduces stress in the material as sharp edges are known stress risers, and also buff or grind the high spots on the flats of the material) this will allow a thicker paint layer to adhere to these areas and lessen the high wear characteristics, when applying paint first apply a layer just to those areas mentioned and allow it to dry for approx 1 hour, then paint the entire frame, this is the best way to get full film thickness and make the coating last. This will allow the paint to last longer but it will eventually wear in these areas, yearly touch ups should be done to prevent rust from creeping under the chassis save and causing real problems. As for those areas leaching rust, soak them with Crown or Rust Check as often as possible, while your under there do your emergency brake cables with the same stuff, if done ever 6 months or so you will NEVER replace another cable unless it breaks, water will get into any cavity so will these rust preventatives, hope this is some help.

PS if you had used and enamel based rust coating then the entire frame would have been on much worse condition after 1 season, Chassis Saver and similar products ROCK and require minimal maintenance to keep looking good if applied correctly with good metal prep practices.

BTY I think you did a great job on your chassis, just a bit more detail to those areas mentioned will keep it looking good longer.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000GrayTJ View Post
I used Chassis Saver last August on the frame for my TJ, and I must say after only half a year (the majority of that being winter mind you) it looks like I am going to have to repaint most of it . Magnet, if you have any advice as to what I may have done wrong I'd appreciate it.

I started off with a knotted cup and knocked off all the loose rust as per the instructions. For the areas that still had the factory coating/bare metal I used 60 Alum. Oxide and an orbital. Here's what it looked like before..


after-ish, I cleaned out all the loose scale. I even went through with a an air chisel/hammed and cleaned everything out.


First coat I layed down with a brush, only used a VERY little bit of Xylene (whichever it calls for) to help get it into all the tight spots. I must admit, it was one of the coolest products as far as application. For the second coat, I thinned it a bit and sprayed it, again making sure to get it everywhere.



before topcoat

and after, I used 2 coats of Plastikote Epoxy Chassis and Rollbar paint.


I thought it turned out pretty well, I had the Jeep on the road by winter so it was a perfect time to test out the paint job. As the winter went on, I could see the common areas starting to "leak" rust a bit. I tried to keep it washed as often as possible the get the salt and sand off, even tho Chassis Saver is supposed to be deal with that stuff. Either way, only about half a year later my frame is starting to look like ****. I was hoping that this paint would handle the harsh climate I live in (almost too good to be true), but I wouldn't mind it lasting a bit longer at least. It seemed at the beginning it help up pretty well, and covered very well.

Here's what I'm left with now..

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Unread 06-26-2014, 09:01 AM   #388
2000GrayTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfl1960
I know this is an older thread but I am sure someone will benefit from my response so please no flaming, this is a great question and I didn't see it answered properly as I read through this thread, it's basic material prep 101 that's causing your problem, I am an inspector in the Marine (shipbuilding) industry and this is a problem we had to deal with over the years, paint is staying in the flat areas but coming off around edges and in any spot on the flats that have a high spot (weld spatter or poorly feather old paint edges, or just some scaly rust bulidup that didn't come off during prep,etc...), the problem is those raised spots and sharp edges cause the paint to lay thinner especially with a self leveling product such as Chassis Saver, and these areas are also subject to more abrasion due to the very small surface area, the solution is to BREAK (meaning chamfer these edges to a small radius rather than a sharp corner, this also reduces stress in the material as sharp edges are known stress risers, and also buff or grind the high spots on the flats of the material) this will allow a thicker paint layer to adhere to these areas and lessen the high wear characteristics, when applying paint first apply a layer just to those areas mentioned and allow it to dry for approx 1 hour, then paint the entire frame, this is the best way to get full film thickness and make the coating last. This will allow the paint to last longer but it will eventually wear in these areas, yearly touch ups should be done to prevent rust from creeping under the chassis save and causing real problems. As for those areas leaching rust, soak them with Crown or Rust Check as often as possible, while your under there do your emergency brake cables with the same stuff, if done ever 6 months or so you will NEVER replace another cable unless it breaks, water will get into any cavity so will these rust preventatives, hope this is some help. PS if you had used and enamel based rust coating then the entire frame would have been on much worse condition after 1 season, Chassis Saver and similar products ROCK and require minimal maintenance to keep looking good if applied correctly with good metal prep practices. BTY I think you did a great job on your chassis, just a bit more detail to those areas mentioned will keep it looking good longer.
I am definitely learning as I go, especially living in the climate that I do..

I 100% agree with everything you said and you are completely correct regarding the raised/sharp areas. As the past couple winters have passed the majority of my frame has held up very well, as you mentioned it was only the few places that have breaks in the coating are where the rust is showing up. Next spring I plan on coating my frame again and I will make a point of slightly more thorough prep as well as at least one more coat than I had applied previously. I also make it a habit now of coating the inside of my frame and other hard to reach areas with Fluid Film to displace the oxygen/moisture.

Thanks for the input!!
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Unread 06-26-2014, 11:52 AM   #389
jeepdog571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfl1960 View Post
I know this is an older thread but I am sure someone will benefit from my response so please no flaming, this is a great question and I didn't see it answered properly as I read through this thread, it's basic material prep 101 that's causing your problem, I am an inspector in the Marine (shipbuilding) industry and this is a problem we had to deal with over the years, paint is staying in the flat areas but coming off around edges and in any spot on the flats that have a high spot (weld spatter or poorly feather old paint edges, or just some scaly rust bulidup that didn't come off during prep,etc...), the problem is those raised spots and sharp edges cause the paint to lay thinner especially with a self leveling product such as Chassis Saver, and these areas are also subject to more abrasion due to the very small surface area, the solution is to BREAK (meaning chamfer these edges to a small radius rather than a sharp corner, this also reduces stress in the material as sharp edges are known stress risers, and also buff or grind the high spots on the flats of the material) this will allow a thicker paint layer to adhere to these areas and lessen the high wear characteristics, when applying paint first apply a layer just to those areas mentioned and allow it to dry for approx 1 hour, then paint the entire frame, this is the best way to get full film thickness and make the coating last. This will allow the paint to last longer but it will eventually wear in these areas, yearly touch ups should be done to prevent rust from creeping under the chassis save and causing real problems. As for those areas leaching rust, soak them with Crown or Rust Check as often as possible, while your under there do your emergency brake cables with the same stuff, if done ever 6 months or so you will NEVER replace another cable unless it breaks, water will get into any cavity so will these rust preventatives, hope this is some help.

PS if you had used and enamel based rust coating then the entire frame would have been on much worse condition after 1 season, Chassis Saver and similar products ROCK and require minimal maintenance to keep looking good if applied correctly with good metal prep practices.

BTY I think you did a great job on your chassis, just a bit more detail to those areas mentioned will keep it looking good longer.
I am about ready to paint my undercarriage and frame with chassis saver and would like to prevent the same thing from happening. Of course its not as much of a problem here in Florida. What do you think about an undercoating over the chassis saver.
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Unread 06-27-2014, 09:44 AM   #390
2000GrayTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdog571
I am about ready to paint my undercarriage and frame with chassis saver and would like to prevent the same thing from happening. Of course its not as much of a problem here in Florida. What do you think about an undercoating over the chassis saver.
Personally I would not recommend undercoating on a frame, it's is better suited for wheel wells and under floor pans etc. On something such as a frame it can trap moisture or of there is any existing rust it will continue to oxidize under the coating. Even with my experience I will not hesitate to use Chassis Saver on my frame/axles when the times comes...this time I will take a bit more time to prep and lay down thicker/more even coats especially where there is possibility for a "pin hole" in the coating.
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