[wheelerbob]

wow, no more replys or updates. Im second guessing my choice of frame paint.

[magnetman]

Still doing research on this. It seems that even sandblasting or 40,000 PSI water pressure won't remove chloride contaminants.

There are chemical treatments that work. This is what we are looking into

[Jeepican]

Any problem with using acetone on bare metal instead of the mek or xylene?....

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by Jeepican

Any problem with using acetone on bare metal instead of the mek or xylene?....

No problem, acetone works well
Just stay stay away from lacquer thinner with CS

[The_Blacksmith]

Originally Posted by magnetman

Still doing research on this. It seems that even sandblasting or 40,000 PSI water pressure won't remove chloride contaminants.

There are chemical treatments that work. This is what we are looking into

keep up the good work. I drove my jeep all winter and it dosent look like anything posted. I'm intrested in the salt remove tho, because would be nice to use before i do the next coat of chassis saver, and all the monstaliner.

Salt may be evil but its a hell of alot better than sand and grit.

[2000GrayTJ]

Good discussion going on about this, I apologize Magnet for not replying sooner. I read that article in the Chloride (?) Salts and it makes sense to me that if they are bonded to the metal prior to application this could definitely be an issue. However, there are 2 people I know that have used POR-15 on their frames which have been exposed to the EXACT same road salt that mine has and they are not having any issues whatsoever.

I'm not going to mention that again just thought I'd share for a little comparison. At work I do frame-off restorations on mostly Jeeps (I had just started the job when I was doing my frame) and for the most part we get the frames blasted, then coated in a rust neutralizer and/or an epoxy paint/primer. Seems to hold up pretty well and I must say I won't hesitate to use CS again, just not in the same application I don't think.

From what I've observed it is a VERY tough coating and definitely remains flexible. It also seems to work the best (as was mentioned before) when it's able to fully encapsulate what it's covering. That being said, I am going to try it as a primer next and see how it performs when there is NO prior rust on the metal. If I could do it again I would have gotten the frame blasted then coated with 3-5 coats of CS plus topcoat.

What do you recommend I do with the current spots that are bleeding through? My instinct is to sand em down and re-coat the BARE metal and then re-topcoat. I appreciate your effort in explaining everything that's going on

[RedlegWJ]

Another thing I was wondering was heat application affecting the chloride? A lot of the chassis area I plan to coat that is already rusted will see a lot of welding. Think the chloride cooks away to an extent?

[Smitty98TJ]

2 days ago i did the monstaliner kit and free chassis saver with free shiping deal. Bought an extra quart of chassis saver too. The owner before me lived at the beach, backed his boat in and what not and looks like he never rinsed after, so if there is still some salt from the salt water on there, highly unlikely, what do i do? Or should i say what kind of prep solvent would be best?

[Michigan4x4]

I am on the verge of applying CS to a trailer but live in MI. Now I am super hesitant. Read all 20 something pages of this thread. Magnet man responded daily in the beginning.. Now, someone posts photos of rust coming through what seemed to be a well prepped frame and it has been a month with no response. Even though I already have the CS product, I may be looking at something else for frame protection.

Not trying to badmouth anyone or anyone's product, just seems Ironic that the "chloride issue" has been deemed the possible problem and the question has been asked "what to do about it?", yet the solution has not been discussed. I am not selling a rust preventative product so I am not really sure what to do about it. I guess I am just going to wait until Magnet man comes up with a solution.

In the meantime I am going to check out a product called "Fluid Film" for my frame inside and out. May still consider the CS but I really want to know why a product like CS is failing in states that use heavy salt and sodium/calcium chloride. I was under the impression that rust prevention was exactly what CS was meant to do...

[RedlegWJ]

The way I understood it when reading the article, is that the coating is irrelevent. The chloride makes it rust under everything. Still eagerly waiting on what will help.

[hdrocknroll]

Originally Posted by Michigan4x4

I am on the verge of applying CS to a trailer but live in MI. Now I am super hesitant. Read all 20 something pages of this thread. Magnet man responded daily in the beginning.. Now, someone posts photos of rust coming through what seemed to be a well prepped frame and it has been a month with no response. Even though I already have the CS product, I may be looking at something else for frame protection.

Not trying to badmouth anyone or anyone's product, just seems Ironic that the "chloride issue" has been deemed the possible problem and the question has been asked "what to do about it?", yet the solution has not been discussed. I am not selling a rust preventative product so I am not really sure what to do about it. I guess I am just going to wait until Magnet man comes up with a solution.

In the meantime I am going to check out a product called "Fluid Film" for my frame inside and out. May still consider the CS but I really want to know why a product like CS is failing in states that use heavy salt and sodium/calcium chloride. I was under the impression that rust prevention was exactly what CS was meant to do...

I agree with you here.
I was going to use it on my Jeep,and also thought it would be good for the trailer.
Now it seems, it doesn't do what it's supposed to do, and no response.

[Michigan4x4]

My answer is this... I am going to prep my trailer per CS instructions this summer. Paint with CS (That I already have) At the end of summer I am going to buy a "Fluid Film" Undercoating kit complete with a "wand" with 360 spray tip for the insides of the frame rails. For somewhere around $100.00 I will have a kit capable of doing my trailer for several winter seasons that WILL protect against Road salt, corrosion and Calcium/sodium Chloride. Cheap insurance as far as I am concerned. If I didn't already have 2 quarts of the CS, I would probably use the Fluid Film only. They make some pretty impressive claims on their website. Their product is also tried and tested. Qiuck note, I am in no way associated with Fluid Film or the manufacturer. It was recommended to me by a friend that has used it for years with very good results.
check it out..

Per Their website:

"The advantage of a soft auto undercoating like Fluid Film, over a hard one, is that if a hard coating gets chipped, water gets trapped underneath the hard coating and the metal surface, leading to more of a auto rust problem.

Fluid Film auto undercoat remains active, migrating to inaccessible areas and protecting from moisture and road salts, even calcium chloride. Because it is a soft coating, it is going to have to be redone every year, or twice a year. Applied in fall, it will get you through a full winter season.

FLUID FILM rust proofing penetrates to the base metal, remaining active and migrating to inaccessible areas. Provides long term protection from the corrosive effects of salts, calcium chloride, moisture and fertilizers, resulting in a "no drip" application which will protect vehicle's undercoating from metal deterioration. "

http://www.kellsportproducts.com/autoundercoatfaq.html

[Michigan4x4]

Still nothing huh?

[Jeepican]

Pretty sure this has prob been asked..... but i am going to coat the underside of my tub with CS, topcoat with maybe rustoleum undercoat and use seam sealer on cracks and body work patches. Should i apply CS first then apply seam sealer? Also what about body work that has been done on rocker should i apply some cs before using seam sealer?