Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread - Page 22 - JeepForum.com

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post #316 of 404 Old 02-20-2012, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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So any plans for a 2 for 1 during Tax season?
I can't do that but once a year on Black Fri or our dealers will get pissed

If you want to spend your tax return faster I can run an exclusive for you only

1 for 2

How about a 4 quart special for the price of a gallon?

$104.75 vs. $150 (4 qt price)

"The IRS Special"

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post #317 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 07:12 AM
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UCP970 Antique-Satin Black – For factory original restorations on all underbody and engine compartment surfaces. Cures to a silky smooth sheen. Use silver-aluminum as a base coat/primer.

"Use silver-aluminum as a base coat/primer"

Is that necessary for the satin? Or just a suggestion? I would rather not buy two quarts silver/satin ........

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
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"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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post #318 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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UCP970 Antique-Satin Black – For factory original restorations on all underbody and engine compartment surfaces. Cures to a silky smooth sheen. Use silver-aluminum as a base coat/primer.

"Use silver-aluminum as a base coat/primer"

Is that necessary for the satin? Or just a suggestion? I would rather not buy two quarts silver/satin ........
Just a suggestion/option because the silver has high loading of aluminum flake it will have some fill properties on pitted rougher surfaces. For the satin to lay out smoothest and brush mark free the surface should be well sealed

2 coats of satin black still looks pretty god when brushed with black faom brushes.

Everyone, please remember no smooth, clean bare metal under Chassis Saver without coarsely abrading the surface first
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post #319 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 09:16 AM
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Everyone, please remember no smooth, clean bare metal under Chassis Saver without coarsely abrading the surface first
So after wire wheeling the frame i should scuff w/ 60-80 grit before applying?

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
My Build Thread

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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post #320 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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So after wire wheeling the frame i should scuff w/ 60-80 grit before applying?
60-80 is still too fine. 40 - 60 is needed if it;s clean smooth metal

What is the wire wheeling removing?
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post #321 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 08:36 PM
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A mixture of rust, factory paint, cheap po paint, oil and sludge........u name it.......

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
My Build Thread

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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post #322 of 404 Old 02-28-2012, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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A mixture of rust, factory paint, cheap po paint, oil and sludge........u name it.......
If you degrease and just coarse it all you prob can avoid the wire wheel altogether?
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post #323 of 404 Old 02-29-2012, 06:28 AM
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If you degrease and just coarse it all you prob can avoid the wire wheel altogether?
I dont trust the layers of paint..... most of it just flakes off.... the rear end is mostly rust, not a lot of paint left on it. The front avoided rust, i guess because of all the oil leaks

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
My Build Thread

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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post #324 of 404 Old 03-04-2012, 01:34 PM
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So after i wire wheel and sand with 40 grit, then apply the cs i should be good to go? I sure dont want to do all this again.

1976 CJ5 - 232 I6, MC2100, YJ Booster, Front disc conv, 2.5" BDS, 1" Body Lift, .5" lift Daystar Shackles, 33 x 10.50 BF KM2, Twin Stick
My Build Thread

"Oh, you're just full of fun today, aren't you? Why don't we go up to the old people's home and wax the steps?"
-Barney Fife-
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post #325 of 404 Old 03-10-2012, 10:38 AM
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i coated some stuff with cs a month or so ago, one coat just to keep the rust under control while i was working, im ready to finish it all up, it sounds like 180-220 scuff on the cs is required to get a good bond for the following coats?
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post #326 of 404 Old 03-10-2012, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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i coated some stuff with cs a month or so ago, one coat just to keep the rust under control while i was working, im ready to finish it all up, it sounds like 180-220 scuff on the cs is required to get a good bond for the following coats?
Yes you want to knock the gloss off it and generate a fine dust. Wipe down with any solvent EXCEPT lacquer thinner and let dry before coating
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post #327 of 404 Old 03-12-2012, 10:45 PM
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What causes rust to come through Chassis Saver? Two separate instances are having spotted rust appearing. On my TJ rear crossmember two years old CS application top coated with rust-oleum. The other on a buddys pickup door (I suggested he buy CS after my initial experience) it was CS coated less than 8 months ago with a factory color match topcoat. Here is the strange part, same applications in other areas using the same methods have no rust coming through.
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post #328 of 404 Old 03-12-2012, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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What causes rust to come through Chassis Saver? Two separate instances are having spotted rust appearing. On my TJ rear crossmember two years old CS application top coated with rust-oleum. The other on a buddys pickup door (I suggested he buy CS after my initial experience) it was CS coated less than 8 months ago with a factory color match topcoat. Here is the strange part, same applications in other areas using the same methods have no rust coming through.
Sorry you're having this issue. This happens on occasion with all products like Chassis Saver. It can only be that moisture somehow got through the coating. I tiny pinhole or a high spot where the coating did not fully cover a small sharp point of rust and moisture gets in.

It's the only thing that makes sense as to why it does not happen in other areas.

Is this gloss black? How many coats were used?
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post #329 of 404 Old 03-13-2012, 12:37 PM
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Gloss Black was used on the TJ and the Pickup was Satin Black. Each had 2 coats.

I think in the future I am going with the silver for any future applications.
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post #330 of 404 Old 03-14-2012, 12:28 PM
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I have a few questions for ya

Would 1 quart of CS be enough to paint 2 layers on the outside of a frame on a TJ?

And would 2 layers be enough to withstand rocks and debris flying up from the tires or would a few coats of rust-o-leum professional enamel be recommended?

Can herculiner be applied over CS after it has cured?

Thanks a bunch
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Frame rust , frame rust paint how , monstaliner , POR 15 , por15 , rust prevention , rust proofing , rust repair

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