Official Chassis Saver Rust Preventive Truck & Auto Underbody Thread - Page 15 - JeepForum.com
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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 08-01-2011, 09:39 AM   #211
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Black turns color in direct sun exposure, meaning facing the sun
Underbody does not change that much except in wheel wells where sun gets in

Silver is different because it starts off dull and the aluminum does not change much

If you put 3 thin coats of silver I have seen it stay nice for 7 + years

Biggest mistake people make with CS is putting 1 coat and thinking they are done. Where high peaks of remaining rust and rough areas are too close to the top of the dry film, moisture can get back in and start rusting again so final film thickness is important to make sure surfaces are sealed in well



Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
No, I meant the Chassis Saver that this thread is about. :P

Sorry to confuse.

You mentioned it starting to gray at some point, so I went with the Silver. But my question is, how long before we'd need to reapply this stuff? Just a general answer, I'm aware that the NE would need it monthly in the winter.


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Unread 08-02-2011, 08:21 AM   #212
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Ah I got you now, had I know that there was small chance of it turning gray I would have gone with black I think. Oh well, I'll give silver a try.

Thanks for the info!
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Hack work? :rofl: You just described half the modified jeeps on this board.
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Unread 08-02-2011, 08:46 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
Ah I got you now, had I know that there was small chance of it turning gray I would have gone with black I think. Oh well, I'll give silver a try.

Thanks for the info!
Silver looks really awesome and it's different
If you want in the well areas where it shows outside you can just spray black over it
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Unread 08-02-2011, 09:20 AM   #214
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Hmmmm sounds like that could be really different
If I was going to do silver CS on the under sides, (I only have a quart) could I put a coat or two of black first and overlay the silver as a top coat (I have a gallon of black cs) or will the quart do me for two or three quarts under neath?

Also as I am doing this from underneath, out of curiosity How is CS with heat, do I need to take extreme care to not get any on my exhaust while I am covering the rest?

And a Final note , Magnetman, do not know if you recall we talked about the Harbor Freight LVLP Gun that only had a 2.0 nozzle......I rolled the dice and got one in and will be trying it with the CS, Yes I will keep you posted Not ready to do it yet but not too far away!
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Unread 08-02-2011, 10:03 AM   #215
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So it sounds like this silver CS fills small cracks/voids nicely? I'm wondering if I might be better off ordering this silver do to my buddies M416 tub with as a base. He's thinking he wants to have Maaco shoot a cheap matching paint on it to match his JK color. Would it be good for that? The tub has a lot of weld work done on it now and seeing how good the black CS did over my tub, it nearly wiped them all out entirely and especially with the Monsta over the top. I grafted a Jeep logo to the back of the tub and hard a really hard time with smoothing out the rounded corners I have a few tiny little cracks and I know after working with the black CS it would do great and cover them nicely. Just thinking maybe I should try the silver and see the differences between it and black, then also be easier to coat over with a white paint. I'll probably prime with magnapoxy as well so the paint can stick good but would it be necessary?

Decided I'd wait and put up pics of the two trailers after I get all the stuff back on them-fenders, doors, etc... Will look a little better that way even though I still have a lot of work left to do on them...

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 08-02-2011, 10:38 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TESmith View Post
Hmmmm sounds like that could be really different
If I was going to do silver CS on the under sides, (I only have a quart) could I put a coat or two of black first and overlay the silver as a top coat (I have a gallon of black cs) or will the quart do me for two or three quarts under neath?

Also as I am doing this from underneath, out of curiosity How is CS with heat, do I need to take extreme care to not get any on my exhaust while I am covering the rest?

And a Final note , Magnetman, do not know if you recall we talked about the Harbor Freight LVLP Gun that only had a 2.0 nozzle......I rolled the dice and got one in and will be trying it with the CS, Yes I will keep you posted Not ready to do it yet but not too far away!
You can put the silver over the black and you may only need 1 quart under so it's your choice. You can also break up gallon into some new quart cans from Hm Dep or paint store to save spoiling full gal.

No problem with CS and heat. Won't burn when dry and any on the exhaust will just change over time and constant heat

Remember the 2.0 gun, do let me know how that works.
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Unread 08-02-2011, 10:42 PM   #217
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CS silver fills some but it not thick at all, actually it's thnner than black. It just works different and looks diff over rusty metal than black

Quote:
Originally Posted by 55willystruck View Post
So it sounds like this silver CS fills small cracks/voids nicely? I'm wondering if I might be better off ordering this silver do to my buddies M416 tub with as a base. He's thinking he wants to have Maaco shoot a cheap matching paint on it to match his JK color. Would it be good for that? The tub has a lot of weld work done on it now and seeing how good the black CS did over my tub, it nearly wiped them all out entirely and especially with the Monsta over the top. I grafted a Jeep logo to the back of the tub and hard a really hard time with smoothing out the rounded corners I have a few tiny little cracks and I know after working with the black CS it would do great and cover them nicely. Just thinking maybe I should try the silver and see the differences between it and black, then also be easier to coat over with a white paint. I'll probably prime with magnapoxy as well so the paint can stick good but would it be necessary?

Decided I'd wait and put up pics of the two trailers after I get all the stuff back on them-fenders, doors, etc... Will look a little better that way even though I still have a lot of work left to do on them...

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 08-03-2011, 06:31 AM   #218
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So a quart will only do about one coat on a TJ frame?

And how quickly does the 2nd and 4rd coat need to be applied? Any time frame?
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Hack work? :rofl: You just described half the modified jeeps on this board.
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Unread 08-03-2011, 11:44 AM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
So a quart will only do about one coat on a TJ frame?

And how quickly does the 2nd and 4rd coat need to be applied? Any time frame?
Only took me about 3/4 of a quart (maybe just over) sprayed for 2 fairly solid coats of my entire frame (had the body off)
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Unread 08-03-2011, 01:00 PM   #220
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Quick question about CS Application temps.

I know there is a minimum application temp, what about a max?

It's been around 95-103 here in the St. Louis area for the past 2 weeks(feels like years), along with very high humidity. I hope to start painting the inside of my tub next weekend with CS as a primer for Monstaliner. Any reason I should wait until it cools down before I apply the CS?

Only place I can paint is outside. Painting in the drive in basement wouldn't go over so well...
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Unread 08-03-2011, 08:59 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erik T. View Post
So a quart will only do about one coat on a TJ frame?

And how quickly does the 2nd and 4rd coat need to be applied? Any time frame?
No you have to get at least 2 coats on that type of frame from 1 quart

Successive coats can be applied in as little as 5 - 6 hrs with a 24 hour max recoat before you need to scuff before next coat
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Unread 08-03-2011, 09:03 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbecker View Post
Quick question about CS Application temps.

I know there is a minimum application temp, what about a max?

It's been around 95-103 here in the St. Louis area for the past 2 weeks(feels like years), along with very high humidity. I hope to start painting the inside of my tub next weekend with CS as a primer for Monstaliner. Any reason I should wait until it cools down before I apply the CS?

Only place I can paint is outside. Painting in the drive in basement wouldn't go over so well...
No reason to wait unless you rather sleep or be at the beach

Applying CS in hotter temps will just make to dry faster to recoat. You just don't want to paint HOT surfaces that were sitting in sun. Need to find some shade or work before sun gets too high say past 10-11AM
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Unread 08-04-2011, 04:14 PM   #223
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Well sad day-I just used up about 1/2 of my last quart of Chassis Saver on the last M416 tub/fenders, etc. In about 5 hours, I'll have no more... This stuff is cool! Has been great for these projects here lately. Kinda sad I'm out now... OH well, means more Magnapoxy then Monsta to go...

Best of Luck,

Mike
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Unread 08-05-2011, 07:50 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
No reason to wait unless you rather sleep or be at the beach

Applying CS in hotter temps will just make to dry faster to recoat. You just don't want to paint HOT surfaces that were sitting in sun. Need to find some shade or work before sun gets too high say past 10-11AM
Thanks.

I knew that you weren't supposed to apply Monstaliner when it was hot and humid since it dries too fast. Looks like the floor of the TJ is getting a couple coats of CS next weekend!

A quart should do the interior of a TJ tub with 2-3 coats right?
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Unread 08-05-2011, 11:34 AM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jbecker View Post
Thanks.

I knew that you weren't supposed to apply Monstaliner when it was hot and humid since it dries too fast. Looks like the floor of the TJ is getting a couple coats of CS next weekend!

A quart should do the interior of a TJ tub with 2-3 coats right?
Quart covers 90 sq ft so 1-1/2 times around the tub, but maybe 2 full coats as it should be brushed thin
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Frame rust , frame rust paint how , monstaliner , POR 15 , por15 , rust prevention , rust proofing , rust repair

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