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Unread 06-24-2011, 10:46 PM   #166
ApolloXIII
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EricsGreen98Tj View Post
Well, I got the second coat of CS on the outside of the frame today. With 2 full thin coats on the frame I have only used a little more than a quart. And only 3 paint brushes . One 3" wide and two 1" wide detail brushes. Im gonna try the garden sprayer with my own personal twist to it in the morning. I really hope that it works.

BTW-I didnt have any Glad Wrap to cover the top of the can with before replacing the lid. I did use wax papaer and it seems to be working ok so far.
Careful with the garden sprayer, I diluted with 20% xylol and still had to toss the sprayer AND it sprayed a jet rather than mist which was the problem. A few posts back I described how to paint the inside well. It worked great, I'm VERY happy to have chassis saver on the inside of my frame, now I know the road salt won't do anything to it. When I washed my frame inside, I had chunks of rust so big they couldn't come out of the frame.

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Unread 06-29-2011, 09:49 PM   #167
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Ordered CS tonight, the plans are to put the YJ up on Jack Stands, clean up underneath as best I can and scuff well as needed, Was Planning to be brushing this stuff all over the undersides covering all that I can.

Should I plan on applying with a brush (or sponge brush) or should I plan on getting an inexpensive HVLP Gun and spray it? Which will do the more thorough covering remembering I will be laying on the ground working underneath? Any other suggestions/tips (and yes I have read most of these posts and a million others, And I have been studying Monstaliner threads as well (I am doing interior of tub with the Monstaliner, having hard time deciding roll or spray with that as well ) Reading all this my brain is a blurry mush which is why I am asking!

Also do I worry about getting it on underside fasteners, or just coat it all?
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Unread 06-30-2011, 03:51 AM   #168
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spray it, i did the underside with a brush on my xj, you cant get into all the places.
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Unread 06-30-2011, 07:30 AM   #169
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spray it, i did the underside with a brush on my xj, you cant get into all the places.
If I spray it I am wondering if I should use
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-92841.html

or

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-47016.html

I was thinking the under cup of the first gun could be handy working under under the Jeep, not having a cup sticking up and in the way But then I wonder if the 2.0 nozzle will be way to large for the CS.......

It does make sense spraying would get in more places and protect better though, has not been anyone else sharing but that may be the way I should go over the brushing, just got to decide what to spray it with
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Unread 06-30-2011, 05:16 PM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TESmith View Post
If I spray it I am wondering if I should use
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-92841.html

or

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-47016.html

I was thinking the under cup of the first gun could be handy working under under the Jeep, not having a cup sticking up and in the way But then I wonder if the 2.0 nozzle will be way to large for the CS.......

It does make sense spraying would get in more places and protect better though, has not been anyone else sharing but that may be the way I should go over the brushing, just got to decide what to spray it with
I agree about the siphon feed for working under a vehicle. That's the right choice. Do they make an HVLP version of that? You get much less overspray with HVLP

I've never worked with a 2.0 tip but I put out an email to someone who knows much more than I about spray equipment and is very familiar with CS. Should have an answer later this eve

Thanks for the order!
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Unread 06-30-2011, 05:21 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ApolloXIII View Post
Careful with the garden sprayer, I diluted with 20% xylol and still had to toss the sprayer AND it sprayed a jet rather than mist which was the problem. A few posts back I described how to paint the inside well. It worked great, I'm VERY happy to have chassis saver on the inside of my frame, now I know the road salt won't do anything to it. When I washed my frame inside, I had chunks of rust so big they couldn't come out of the frame.
I tried using pressurized pump sprayers to spray regular paint 15 yrs ago and never could get it to work.

Problem is that you can not build enough pressure to atomize anything into a fine mist and by the time you get it thin enough to possibly get anything more than a stream of urine, the stuff is so overthinned that it runs all over and does not cover.
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Unread 06-30-2011, 09:24 PM   #172
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Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
I agree about the siphon feed for working under a vehicle. That's the right choice. Do they make an HVLP version of that? You get much less overspray with HVLP

I've never worked with a 2.0 tip but I put out an email to someone who knows much more than I about spray equipment and is very familiar with CS. Should have an answer later this eve

Thanks for the order!
I would imagine someone would make it in a HVLP But have not seen one in an inexpensive model (Yet)
But this one we are talking about is LVLP reading up on this seems interesting (Sorry kind of long)

"Want HVLP performance, but with less air requirements? and even lower overspray levels? Welcome to LVLP.

LVLP is great for painters who want all the benefits of HVLP but with less air requirements. Automotive or Wood painters who do not have a large air compressor will now be able to achieve a professional finish and paint an entire car or very large surfaces "HVLP Style" without stopping. You can get away with an inexpensive 110v compressors from Sears and the like, 7CFM@40 (or even less for wood 5 CFM@40). LVLP is also good for mobile painters due to the smaller air requirements and low overspray (discussed below).
Note: for woodworkers, pausing is not as big an issue and compressor size is less important UNTIL you fall under the 7CFM@40 mark, then LVLP guns are a great alternative to Low Air HVLP guns or Reduced Pressure Guns. (On a side note: for 6CFM-8CFM we also recommend looking at Reduced Pressure HTE (RP-HTE) guns, especially for people who are used to traditional conventional equipment, or those who like or need a fast working speed. Devilibss Plus or any of our European Guns with HTE Technology are terrific Reduced Pressure and a top choice for wood workers.) Over 8CFM and you can use most any technology you wish, You can comfortably use some of the full sized, more power hungry HVLP guns.


The second benefit of LVLP is the low overspray levels. The designation for LVLP is Low Volume, LOW Pressure. An LVLP Spray Gun can operate at less than 10 psi at the nozzle cap as compared to HVLP which operates at 10 psi at the air cap and is usually pushed higher by the user for better atomization. LVLP has a transfer efficiency well over 70%-80% (5% higher than HVLPs) of putting the paint onto the surface being coated. This means very little overspray will be produced, saving on paint cost and environmental hazards.

The major drawbacks of LVLP guns are a slight reduction in speed (see RP HTE guns to solve this problem) and a little reduction in fan pattern width (typically maxing out at 10"-11" - not an issue for most woodworkers).

What this means to you...
What is LVLP?
1) LVLP uses a lower volume of air to atomize the paint at the cap. LVLP compensates for the lack of air with a precision air cap that acts like a bunch of tiny sharpe knifes that cuts your material. By using a lower volume of air, it means you can operate your LVLP gun with less CFM and a smaller compressor, usually about 3-4CFM less than HVLP. (Note: Reduced Pressure,HTE, CG,Plus or reduced pressure guns also use less inlet CFM than HVLP, usually about 1-2CFM less than HVLP - It seem un-intuitive, but it is a matter of engineering design). Therefore, you can operate either LVLP or Reduced Pressure HTE guns typically with a smaller air compressor than standard HVLP guns - 2-3 hp is still recommended, but 1 1/2 can get you by.

3) Why an HVLP or LVLP? Today, HVLP is most common spray gun on the market. HVLP has a very long track record and good guns have become available at lower prices. In our estimation the 5% in higher transfer efficiency of LVLP is not a discernible difference for most users and should not be a concern unless overspray is the most important factor to you. In general then, we can recommend either HVLP or LVLP for most applications. While we recommend HVLP over LVLP for a professional with a large 220v compressor due to the increase in speed, smaller shops, woodworkers and / or serious hobbyist we recommend either with complete confidence.

In favor of HVLP, some argue that so little air is used to atomize the paint of an LVLP gun, (remember, it is the air that breaks up the paint) that an LVLP gun must be maintained in great condition, otherwise they tend to be finicky and any imperfections in the gun will affect your atomization quality. So if you are lazy and don't clean your equipment, or if you spray in a particularly dirty environment or have contaminants after long spraying time, LVLP may be more difficult to keep clean. Also, some argue that LVLP has harder edges and therefore is not good at blending as HVLP (while others like the harder edges as it is more precise and easier to control for definition). In addition, LVLP tend to spray slightly slower than many HVLP guns and definitely slower than Reduced Pressure guns.

In favor of LVLP, LVLP has a softer spray with the lowest overspray levels on the market, and assuming LVLP guns are maintained well, they are a joy to work with. Also, for auto painters with small compressors, LVLP give you another option besides Low air HVLP or Reduced Pressure (reduced pressure guns) to paint an entire car nonstop. LVLP are also great for mobile workers who spray outdoors or in car lots. For woodworkers and LVLP allows you to get a professional result with very small compressors even under 6CFM@40psi. And those spraying on location or inside your own home, will appreciate the lower overspray levels.

This info is from http://www.spraygunworld.com/Information2/LVLP.htm

so if the larger tip is Ok this could sound like an interesting choice, the low over spray and all would be nice working on the car (yes not as critical underneath But in other spots could be a plus) ?

I appreciate your trying to find something out, will watch for a reply!
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Unread 07-01-2011, 11:33 PM   #173
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Yeah I gave up one putting CS on the inside of my frame how did you get the sponges into the frame? there is a crossmember on both ends of the frame???

Anyway a pic or two...

Before:



After:




I was gonna do the axle housings with CS too, but i dont think the stock skid(AKA shovel),D35 or LP D30 will be under my "new" Tj for long.....come on tax season!!

I do have one more question: Can you put Bondo over top of the Gloss Black CS? Will it stick to it if I sand the CS? Or shoud I Bondo first then CS over the Bondo?
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Unread 07-20-2011, 12:40 AM   #174
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Started to apply my chassis saver on all the replaced floor and repair work. This stuff is great! I got the left and right outside the uni-rails done had to call it quits on the day been at it since 9 am till 230 am... So much for vacation time hahaha. Last pic is the before chassis saver and after all the welding and cutting.
246950_1848515258240_1401465462_31837195_2433777_n.jpg  
cs5.jpg

cs4.jpg

cs1.jpg

cs3.jpg

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Unread 07-20-2011, 06:47 AM   #175
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Started to apply my chassis saver on all the replaced floor and repair work. This stuff is great! I got the left and right outside the uni-rails done had to call it quits on the day been at it since 9 am till 230 am... So much for vacation time hahaha. Last pic is the before chassis saver and after all the welding and cutting.
I can't find my eyeglasses man!
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Unread 07-20-2011, 09:22 AM   #176
TESmith
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Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
I agree about the siphon feed for working under a vehicle. That's the right choice. Do they make an HVLP version of that? You get much less overspray with HVLP

I've never worked with a 2.0 tip but I put out an email to someone who knows much more than I about spray equipment and is very familiar with CS. Should have an answer later this eve

Thanks for the order!
Magnetman, have you ever heard back about the 2.0 tip (with the lvlp gun)
I am still sitting on hold on this one!
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Unread 07-20-2011, 09:51 AM   #177
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Magnetman, have you ever heard back about the 2.0 tip (with the lvlp gun)
I am still sitting on hold on this one!
No advice from him as he never used tip that size

My gut tells me it should be fine. I would start with only 5% reducer and go from there. May even try first spraying unreduced just go with thin light coat first

On Harbor Frt reviews for this gun there is one guy claiming he sprayed industrial primer and enamel with great results. All others sprayed stain or latex paint

Go for it
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Unread 07-20-2011, 11:22 AM   #178
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Haha sorry bout that it was like 330am when i took and posted these and didnt really care about anything but goin to bed heres some bigger ones.
cs1.jpg   cs4.jpg  
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Unread 07-21-2011, 01:52 AM   #179
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those photos remind me of something :P
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Unread 07-21-2011, 04:26 PM   #180
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those photos remind me of something :P
Yeah mine was somewhat bad but nothin near what i have seen from some xjs on here all i had to do was the rear hatch area and replaced some of the unibody rail on the old bumpstops and plated the gas tank cut out. Back at it tomorrow in the 115 heat index
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