Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 725 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 07-24-2013, 01:06 PM   #10861
phil8825
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Miami Beach, Florida
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Therios

I had the same issue with my rollbars. I "thought" that I would be oh so awesome at getting around them. Not! Now I have ordered a Quart of touch up so that when I stop being lazy and remove the 10 bolts or so to get the rollbar out. Anything that is removable, do so. Trust me here! I know this is lays recommended but with monstaliner you will have a far better time if there is no obstruction and you can be consistent.

No one will ever really see the back side of your bumpers. But you will. Take the extra 30 minutes to unbolt hem and do them in an easy place to get to them. You really will be happier with the process and you will have perfect coverage and you will never have a regret. If you don't, you will be planning every weekend over the next year on removing the tubes and doing a touch up because you see the pots every day.

Also, don't sweat the first coat. When I rolled mine on I could not handle the few little peak through spots that were thin. He second coat will get them. Don't overwork the first coat. Just get it on complete and even. Spend the time on getting a good smooth base and final coat and let the overage work itself out.

On my window mounted guard and lightbar, I used etching priner, followed by chassis saver, and when I get the rollbar out in the next few weeks, the new bumper, plastic fenders, lightbars, will all get the black ML.

I learned from experience by cutting corners and taking the apparent quick and easy method. Now I have to do touch ups and twice the work. Not worth it at all.

Just my two cents. Hope it helps someone.

Oh ya, and the most important things. Read my post on what I learned. Also just do it. Stop wondering and being timid. Spend the 6 bucks, order the samples and just do it. If you wanna see how it works then buy a quart of black and do your bumpers. MEK and/or its substitute works just fine. Do all of it in two sessions. It won't save for another project. It will skin over in an hour or two and you can touch the thick parts and actually feel the soft parts as they cure. I put an old piece of carper padding down and drove it after 24 hours but really babied it. Upside down carpeting did not get removed until the week was over. Now I don't have stupid carpet and drain the pan when needed and never worry about it any more. Wish that I could encapsulate the entire dash and make it all waterproof.
Good point on taking everything off. That is the plan. I have my side steps off and am prepping those now. Doing all the prep and then ordering the stuff. I know if I order it now Ill grow way to impatient and rush to put it on and see what it looks like.

I read that ML does not adhere very well on bare metal. My question is I have some small bare spots here and there after sanding the sidestep

Spot prime?

Some are. Super small and a few others a little bigger, maybe an
Inch or two in length and a 1/4 wide

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Unread 07-24-2013, 02:57 PM   #10862
magnetman
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Find this at HD or Lowes for the bare spots you refer to
rustoleum-automotive-spray-can-primer.jpg

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Unread 07-24-2013, 03:10 PM   #10863
phil8825
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Miami Beach, Florida
Posts: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
Find this at HD or Lowes for the bare spots you refer to
Thank you for the info.

Just out of curiosity would that be an acceptable primer for prepping an entire bare metal surface area or rather just bare spots
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Unread 07-24-2013, 04:12 PM   #10864
Therios
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Portland, Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil8825

Thank you for the info.

Just out of curiosity would that be an acceptable primer for prepping an entire bare metal surface area or rather just bare spots
Autozone has this. It worked great for ma as I had the same issue.
image-1608136958.jpg

__________________
Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070AXD4...-Receiver.html
-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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Unread 07-24-2013, 08:49 PM   #10865
Riley8807
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2007 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 6
So I'm new to this thread and to Monstaliner , it says won't chalk and is guaranteed for 5 years. What happens down the road at 7-10 years or longer? If I spend the money and do roll my entire jeep, I want to know what I'm getting into in the future.
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Unread 07-25-2013, 02:58 AM   #10866
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riley8807 View Post
So I'm new to this thread and to Monstaliner , it says won't chalk and is guaranteed for 5 years. What happens down the road at 7-10 years or longer? If I spend the money and do roll my entire jeep, I want to know what I'm getting into in the future.
Welcome Riley8807

We do offer a 10 year guarantee.
The 2nd 5 years costs double what you spend now on Monstaliner and then if you have a problem after 5 years we give you a free materials to re-do it. It's called "MONSTASURANCE"

Seriously... purchase a new car and maybe you get a 5 year paint guarantee, more likely 3 yrs. (with all sorts of disclaimers)
We tested ML and determined that 5 years was reasonable because we know it's UV stable.
We have no control over prep, application or what you do with your vehicle after you install Monstaliner.

Monstaliner is no different than automotive paint when it comes to appearance.
If you disregard doing anything to maintain it you can forget about it looking good in 5 years.
Treat your investment like you would the paint on a car and it will still look good in 5 years.
Washing it regularly, etc. Not scrubbing it when it's muddy and sandy. Armorall, spray wax, etc will keep it looking fresh.
So basically.. what you're getting in the future is what you put into it along the way to keep it looking good.
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Unread 07-25-2013, 03:04 AM   #10867
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Therios View Post
Autozone has this. It worked great for ma as I had the same issue.

I've always advised against self etch primers only because I've seen and heard of too many adhesion issues. This is not to say they don't work.. but for the same effort a regular primer will work more universally and not cause any issues

These products are not like they used to be. Old school self etch was 2 component with much higher phosphoric acid content. The new rattle can self etchers are a short cut in my opinion to capture DIY market share
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Unread 07-25-2013, 01:53 PM   #10868
Therios
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman

I've always advised against self etch primers only because I've seen and heard of too many adhesion issues. This is not to say they don't work.. but for the same effort a regular primer will work more universally and not cause any issues

These products are not like they used to be. Old school self etch was 2 component with much higher phosphoric acid content. The new rattle can self etchers are a short cut in my opinion to capture DIY market share
Thanks for the clarification.
__________________
Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070AXD4...-Receiver.html
-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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Unread 07-26-2013, 01:12 PM   #10869
yj_loomis
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1990 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Oswego, New York
Posts: 170
I plan on going with black for my tub and either white or od green for my body. I know I need the chassis saver for the rust spots on both tub and body. On top of that I want to do the frame to help protect from the upstate ny winters. I was planning on going with the gloss black.

2 questions....

1. Is their any issues with the white or od green completely hiding the chassis saver?

2. This for me is a multi stage project. Once I pop the chassis saver, how long is it good for. I'm guessing with $$$ constraints its going to take 1.5-2 months to finish.
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Unread 07-26-2013, 07:40 PM   #10870
eduardostewart
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 305
Quote:
Originally Posted by yj_loomis View Post
I plan on going with black for my tub and either white or od green for my body. I know I need the chassis saver for the rust spots on both tub and body. On top of that I want to do the frame to help protect from the upstate ny winters. I was planning on going with the gloss black.

2 questions....

1. Is their any issues with the white or od green completely hiding the chassis saver?

2. This for me is a multi stage project. Once I pop the chassis saver, how long is it good for. I'm guessing with $$$ constraints its going to take 1.5-2 months to finish.
hi bud, now i havent cracked open my CS ir ML so take this with a grain of salt, but bought 4-1qt empty paint cans from home depot (~$3 a piece). a friend told me this and i believe i saw it on here as well... cup the CS as opposed to pouring so it doesnt clog the rim/lip of the can into the little quarts. top them off with some mek so it doesnt harden or form a skin on top. place some plastic or maybe grocery bag down the top and smack the lid on.

if im wrong please somebody correct me. i can understand the precaution because of $$$
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Unread 07-26-2013, 07:45 PM   #10871
DezertTJ
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Posts: 4,492
I've been interested in this, but what happens after it fades a longtime from now? Basically just sand it all off and put new liner on?
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Unread 07-26-2013, 08:16 PM   #10872
Therios
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by DezertTJ
I've been interested in this, but what happens after it fades a longtime from now? Basically just sand it all off and put new liner on?
If and when it happens, I assume it will be similar to the stupid rhino in my old truck. I just had to re-line it every two years. Successive coats went further than did the initial. I am really hoping that this stuff lasts far longer b

I have only had it in my tub for a month now and I am WAY happy with what I have. I can already tell it is a far superior product. Just getting ready to begin reassembly of my 69 beetle that will be fully cs and ML.
__________________
Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070AXD4...-Receiver.html
-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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Unread 07-27-2013, 01:41 AM   #10873
magnetman
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Go with the silver CS and covering with the white is no issue, ODG is never an issue with black CS

Read this on handling CS
http://www.magnetpaints.com/MSDS-TECH/TDS_UCP99.pdf

Quote:
Originally Posted by yj_loomis View Post
I plan on going with black for my tub and either white or od green for my body. I know I need the chassis saver for the rust spots on both tub and body. On top of that I want to do the frame to help protect from the upstate ny winters. I was planning on going with the gloss black.

2 questions....

1. Is their any issues with the white or od green completely hiding the chassis saver?

2. This for me is a multi stage project. Once I pop the chassis saver, how long is it good for. I'm guessing with $$$ constraints its going to take 1.5-2 months to finish.
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Unread 07-27-2013, 01:43 AM   #10874
magnetman
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2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eduardostewart View Post
hi bud, now i havent cracked open my CS ir ML so take this with a grain of salt, but bought 4-1qt empty paint cans from home depot (~$3 a piece). a friend told me this and i believe i saw it on here as well... cup the CS as opposed to pouring so it doesnt clog the rim/lip of the can into the little quarts. top them off with some mek so it doesnt harden or form a skin on top. place some plastic or maybe grocery bag down the top and smack the lid on.

if im wrong please somebody correct me. i can understand the precaution because of $$$
This is exactly right, tin foil works also
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Unread 07-27-2013, 02:03 AM   #10875
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DezertTJ View Post
I've been interested in this, but what happens after it fades a longtime from now? Basically just sand it all off and put new liner on?
ML is made from all UV stable components, it won't fade from sun exposure

Mud, dirt and sand are abrasives. These are what can dull any surface. If you clean your jeep regularly and even use some Armor All or liquid wipe on wax you will protect against the effects of abrasion.

ML can be scuffed and recoated at any time. If you use waxes on the surface you would need to do a thorough solvent removal of the wax before scuffing to recoat
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