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post #10786 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 12:14 PM
Therios
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Portland
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_breaker_5

i would guess 6-8 hours. this may be a question best answered by eric however.
So, when I let mine cure and began to get it backin use,it had been there sitting for 18 hours and had been misted as recommended. I had already removed my tape just like I would have after normal paint, in other words, right after finishing my second coat. The first coat was obviously not ready for any form of attachment as it was easy to cleanup the edges. I extrapolate this to meaning that it might not hold up to taping even after 18 hours because I was still able to easily cleanup the edges and finger scrape very small amounts of ML that Groton the dash.

After a week, I found a square of take that I had missed, the ML was WAY more secure! It did just fine and was a real bear to cleanup. There are ow a few spots that I find where there is just a finger.print hanging around. Like on the gas pedal. It is there for good now and not worth the massive effort to remove it.

I my opinion, I would ot tape a line until it was officially "fully cured" at 7 days. After a couple of days, I still had a few very thick spots in the corners that were soft and felt like a waterbed. Those are now well solid and don't even depress.

I drove mine after 36 hours but made sure to have a carpet remnant under my feet until fully cured.

It might be worth it to wait IMHO. I would have been pissed to pull up a chunk just because I could ot wait a week for the second color masking. I am just saying!


Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
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post #10787 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 12:40 PM
Therios
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Portland
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoovw
Question. The owner of my jeep before me repainted it and did a really bad job. The clear coat is flaking off everywhere and the paint in some areas is chipping down to bare metal and he clearly didn't use a flex additive on the plastics. Should do anything special or chip off as much as I can and then featheredge what won't come up or just sand and scuff everything like normal?
If some thing chips under the ML then the ML in not sticking to anything other than the chip that chipped off... Like everyone has said throughout this entire million page posting. You cannot do too much prep. This stuff is great and it is incredibly durable. But it is not magic. It cannot adhere to bare metal as posted here. It cannot adhere to something that is not adhered to the base material. You will get pimples, dimples, bubbles, or whatever you want to call them. It is simple physics.

On bare metal, use metal etching primer. That is what magnet man told me and it worked well and I was secure in the believe that. My surface was sound after proper grinding, sanding, scuffing, priming scuffing. I cleaned it per instructions and was secure in the knowledge that there was not a drop of wax or such to stop adhesion. A final MEK (or MEK substitute) wipe per instructions ensured a final prep.

The ML is really a breeze. It is actually quite forgiving. This is evidenced by the awesome performance achieved by those that did very minor preparations. And it worked great! I chose to ensure there were no issues by spending an extra day in prep. If you get this stuff down on an improper surface, the recovery/repair may be a real bear. And it might take a lot longer than the proper prep would have take in the first place.

To answer your question directly: I would wire wheel anything that is chipping. I think most would agree with this. I would not worry too much about feathering as the ML has a great coverup thickness and I can't believe you would even see anything bigger than a really thick abrupt edge. I would then scuff and de-wax everything. Normal prep here. Then I would metal etch prime. Personally, I would at least light prime everything and properly prime bare metal per instructions. But the extra is just me. I could not bear to not at least have a good prime coat. Then I would scuff and ML. I

n fact, that is exactly what I did on my bare metal windshield protector. I had it long enough that it had surface rust. So, per instructions, I prepared as above, but put chassis saver on after primer and then ML. Way overkill but I am positive it is a killer protection.

Please understand that this is all my opinion and I can't and don't really want anyone to assume I am trying to speak for them. I am only repeating what I have collected in my own little head and what I believe to be best practice to achieve a great result.

Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
Therios is offline  
post #10788 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 12:46 PM
Therios
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2003 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Portland
Posts: 135
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman

Home Depot or Lowes should sell this which is fine for what you describe and it will dry fast. Spray 2 coats and check directions for how fast they say you can topcoat it
I used a premium quality rattle can of good metal primer from a big box auto parts store. Some of them deal with high end auto paints for pros as well. I think I got mine at a napa.

Therios Pendragon aka Ken Johnson
2003 maroon Jeep Wrangler SE - Soft top
Hard half doors
-New Bestop replacement
-Orfab front bumper (DONE)
-CRS rear bumper
-CRS rear bumper tire mount swing arm.
-led third light mods that sit in the two spare tire lug holes.
-because of above - removed ugly third light tower completely
-smitty top end grab handles
-20" LED light bar 10 degree spot (installed now and blindingly operational)
-50" LED light bar 20 degree flood ( changed to 30" in center 3 tabs, installed but not wired)
-windshield mount light bar (done)
-winch 8000# smitty
-Monstaliner complete pan in red head(as soon as they deliver it) (done)
-Carpet removed
-corbeau RS reclining seats
-corbeau water proof seat covers
-corbeau seat mount replacements (removes tilt forward passenger seat)
-AXD 430 receiver
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

-hood hinge mount for my hi lift jack
-Headlight replacements
-tremendous mt 31.5/10.5 15s on nice alloy rims
-Everything else is stock... For now

-next items
Led dash replacements

Led square lights for 6 free mounting tabs
Led backup lights
Therios is offline  
post #10789 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 01:27 PM
HDWrangler
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Milwaukie
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Therios View Post
So, when I let mine cure and began to get it backin use,it had been there sitting for 18 hours and had been misted as recommended. I had already removed my tape just like I would have after normal paint, in other words, right after finishing my second coat. The first coat was obviously not ready for any form of attachment as it was easy to cleanup the edges. I extrapolate this to meaning that it might not hold up to taping even after 18 hours because I was still able to easily cleanup the edges and finger scrape very small amounts of ML that Groton the dash.

After a week, I found a square of take that I had missed, the ML was WAY more secure! It did just fine and was a real bear to cleanup. There are ow a few spots that I find where there is just a finger.print hanging around. Like on the gas pedal. It is there for good now and not worth the massive effort to remove it.

I my opinion, I would ot tape a line until it was officially "fully cured" at 7 days. After a couple of days, I still had a few very thick spots in the corners that were soft and felt like a waterbed. Those are now well solid and don't even depress.

I drove mine after 36 hours but made sure to have a carpet remnant under my feet until fully cured.

It might be worth it to wait IMHO. I would have been pissed to pull up a chunk just because I could ot wait a week for the second color masking. I am just saying!

Thanks... Appreciate your observations.

I PM'd Eric and he recommended 24hrs miniumum. I'll 'play it by ear'. It will likely be pretty hot so I anticipate the cure rate should be well towards the faster end of the range. 3M Fine Line tape is pretty forgiving but I'll try to be patient and let the first coats cure well.
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post #10790 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 03:15 PM
mike_breaker_5
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: emporium,
Posts: 3,006
see... that's why i said it would be best to talk to someone who has done it.

i was taking the 6-8 hours from the recommended re-coat time, guess i was WAY wrong. lol

Ratmonkey donation page. all proceeds will go to his family.

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it's not much to look at... but it's mine.
5.2lswap, metalcloaks, bedliner, tucked belly, d60's, soon to be nv4500 and d300.

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post #10791 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Location: Cullman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_breaker_5 View Post
see... that's why i said it would be best to talk to someone who has done it.

i was taking the 6-8 hours from the recommended re-coat time, guess i was WAY wrong. lol
Reason I said to go 24 hrs is that you have to push tape down well on top of previous fresh liner so 2nd color don't bleed under

If the 1st color is not cured well enough you risk damaging it

Steve: make a small sample board or panel when rolling 1st color this way you can test tape on top of that rather than trying to tape on the project too soon

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post #10792 of 13284 Old 07-17-2013, 07:10 PM
Willys '05
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2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sarasota FL
Posts: 280
I have a question regarding the product - first of all I am about to do the interior of my TJ as well as my aluminum dog box... the box is about 34" tall and 29" x 29" give or take... I have a few questions about the dog box (which will be my first part of the project):

1) Can I apply monstaliner directly to the bare aluminum or should I use a self etching primer etc?

2) If I can apply directly to the bare aluminum, would it adhere differently if I were to roll or spray with a hopper?

3) Do you have an idea of how much paint I would require to paint just the dog box... It is a "summer box" which means it has 1x1 bar stock making jail cell type verticals and a 6" diamond plate base with a drawer...

4) How long till after the product is applied is it safe for animals (or me) to be in with the top up etc.

FINALY: Thank you for your patience as I ask way too many questions regarding your product when I probably should have just picked up the phone... THANKS!

2005 Willys Edition TJ - Rubi rockers - Skids - 30/35 - 3.73 - 2" BDS Suspension - 1.25 JKS BL - 6 Speed NSG- 31" Firestone Destination M/T's - 2 KC 8" HID KCs - 2 6" HID KCs - Dog Box - Rockhard front and rear with swing out and rock rack - Mile Marker SEC8
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post #10793 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Not on bare aluminum. Don't use self etch, use 2 part epoxy

No diff in adhesion rolled or sprayed. You may waste too much spraying bars like that

Give me the total # of of bars you have that measure 1 x 1, post pic?

I would let it cure 1 week not so much for safety but so the dogs claws don't damage it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Willys '05 View Post
I have a question regarding the product - first of all I am about to do the interior of my TJ as well as my aluminum dog box... the box is about 34" tall and 29" x 29" give or take... I have a few questions about the dog box (which will be my first part of the project):

1) Can I apply monstaliner directly to the bare aluminum or should I use a self etching primer etc?

2) If I can apply directly to the bare aluminum, would it adhere differently if I were to roll or spray with a hopper?

3) Do you have an idea of how much paint I would require to paint just the dog box... It is a "summer box" which means it has 1x1 bar stock making jail cell type verticals and a 6" diamond plate base with a drawer...

4) How long till after the product is applied is it safe for animals (or me) to be in with the top up etc.

FINALY: Thank you for your patience as I ask way too many questions regarding your product when I probably should have just picked up the phone... THANKS!

.
.


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post #10794 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 09:36 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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1st pics of Outbreak.. this is sprayed


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post #10795 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 09:50 AM
HDWrangler
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Milwaukie
Posts: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Reason I said to go 24 hrs is that you have to push tape down well on top of previous fresh liner so 2nd color don't bleed under

If the 1st color is not cured well enough you risk damaging it

Steve: make a small sample board or panel when rolling 1st color this way you can test tape on top of that rather than trying to tape on the project too soon
Thanks Eric..... Great idea on the sample board! I'll do that. Will report back on how things worked out. Finishing up prep this weekend, plan to paint next weekend.
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post #10796 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 12:07 PM
mercmenace
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1998 ZJ 
 
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Location: Cheyenne
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Amount to paint a ZJ inside and out.

Looks like a great product. I am looking to paint next summer. Just ordered some samples to get a couple ideas visualized.

I read through about the first 150 pages and gave up.

Has anyone painted the interior and exterior of a ZJ yet? If so how much paint will it require?? I am guessing around 2 gallons for the interior. ZJ must be comparable to an Unlimited in size. I was thinking 3 gallons black 1 gallon Accent color and 1 quart for highlight color. Does this sound about right?

Has anyone thought of doing a reference chart for using ML??
ie. 1 gallon for TJ tub 2 gallons for JKU tub.

edit: That Blue Cherokee looks nice. How much paint did that take? Are people having better results spraying vs. rolling an exterior?

Never scoff at help when it is offered, It's usually a long walk home.

'98 ZJ 5.9l stock
View my build here. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/niner-expedition-build-1551037/
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post #10797 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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2 gals for ZJ exterior
Not 100% sure on interior, may need little more than 1 gal
Coverage is 60 sq ft/gal

On the Outbreak blue Cherokee customer got 3 gals but only used 2 for exterior

- Rolling is more work, 2 hrs minimum wait between coats, less masking
- Spraying is faster, 1 hr between coats, more masking to protect from overspray
Texture varies some between both methods

Quote:
Originally Posted by mercmenace View Post
Looks like a great product. I am looking to paint next summer. Just ordered some samples to get a couple ideas visualized.

I read through about the first 150 pages and gave up.

Has anyone painted the interior and exterior of a ZJ yet? If so how much paint will it require?? I am guessing around 2 gallons for the interior. ZJ must be comparable to an Unlimited in size. I was thinking 3 gallons black 1 gallon Accent color and 1 quart for highlight color. Does this sound about right?

Has anyone thought of doing a reference chart for using ML??
ie. 1 gallon for TJ tub 2 gallons for JKU tub.

edit: That Blue Cherokee looks nice. How much paint did that take? Are people having better results spraying vs. rolling an exterior?

.
.


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post #10798 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 01:46 PM
roughknight69
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Location: Jamestown ny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
2 gals for ZJ exterior
Not 100% sure on interior, may need little more than 1 gal
Coverage is 60 sq ft/gal

On the Outbreak blue Cherokee customer got 3 gals but only used 2 for exterior

- Rolling is more work, 2 hrs minimum wait between coats, less masking
- Spraying is faster, 1 hr between coats, more masking to protect from overspray
Texture varies some between both methods
1 gal was fine for my interior.

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post #10799 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Coming up on 11K & 750,000K

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post #10800 of 13284 Old 07-18-2013, 08:36 PM
taylor797
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Location: Sault Ste Marie
Posts: 142
I am trying to order a 1 gallon kit using the promo and free shipping is working but when I enter the code for FREECSQ I get a red error that says "We've found the best discount possible using the coupons you entered. We discard the coupon that did not increase your discount: FREECSQ"
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