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10-20-2009, 11:23 PM
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#91
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 230
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The temp of ~130F sounds about right. Maybe a bit hotter in some conditions. It would be cool if somebody would measure though with a real infrared thermometer.
I have the entire inside of my tub coated with Rhino Hardline. I've had it a bit over a year and am really pleased. I haven't noticed any difference in the durability of the coating with temperature and am really pleased overall with the durability of the finish.
Over the summer I "rebuilt" some full doors and coated the inside and edges with Rustoleum's bedliner product. While I am happy with the finish, it took three coats and I am still glad it is not in an area that will see more wear (can't comment on the UV issue). The Rustoleum is a very smooth finish and while it feels thick putting on with a brush, is actually pretty thin. Essentially, I can see why the thickness of this product would be attractive in higher impact applications.
Good luck with the testing fellas.
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10-20-2009, 11:41 PM
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#92
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scs2016
The temp of ~130F sounds about right. Maybe a bit hotter in some conditions. It would be cool if somebody would measure though with a real infrared thermometer.
I have the entire inside of my tub coated with Rhino Hardline. I've had it a bit over a year and am really pleased. I haven't noticed any difference in the durability of the coating with temperature and am really pleased overall with the durability of the finish.
Over the summer I "rebuilt" some full doors and coated the inside and edges with Rustoleum's bedliner product. While I am happy with the finish, it took three coats and I am still glad it is not in an area that will see more wear (can't comment on the UV issue). The Rustoleum is a very smooth finish and while it feels thick putting on with a brush, is actually pretty thin. Essentially, I can see why the thickness of this product would be attractive in higher impact applications.
Good luck with the testing fellas.
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Just pull up to most any auto mechanic shop and ask them to shoot their IR thermometer on the tunnel.
Rhino is polyurea and will be affected much less than paint on coatings.
I just rolled Rustoleum Rd Warrior last week. It has sand in it (no rubber). Looks much thicker than it really is. Lots of solvent in it. They puff it up with viscosity additives so the sand don't settle while using. It's an epoxy.
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10-20-2009, 11:44 PM
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#93
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckrider
I heard somewhere that the pain threshold in the hands is 130 degrees. I would say that means that 130 is the highest temp you can tough, no it hurts, but be able to take it. IF I remember, I will start with the finger lick test, then move to full contact.
EDIT: It must be 130 because I didn't see your post, then I put mine up, and we had the same temp.
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Sit on it with bare skin
Still can't be anything like scorching your calf on a MC exhaust pipe
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10-20-2009, 11:46 PM
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#94
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
I live in LB.
Offices, labs and warehouse in Amityville
Where is 5 mins from Long Beach?
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Oceanside. It's 5+ if the bridge is up tho.  If you need stock Jeep Wrangler measurements, temps, etc. drop me a PM I have some time late in the day tomorrow and I can swing by the shop if needed.
__________________
'06 TJ - Pretty stockish but the waranty just ended so it's planning time.
[COLOR="Blue"][URL="http://www.outlawedoffroad.com"]Outlawed Offroad[/URL][/COLOR] - LI/NY Jeepers
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10-20-2009, 11:51 PM
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#95
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenpuppets
Oceanside. It's 5+ if the bridge is up tho. 
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Oceanside HS here
Class of 79
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10-20-2009, 11:52 PM
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#96
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NY
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
Oceanside HS here
Class of 79
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You got me by a couple years....  Class of '91 here.
__________________
'06 TJ - Pretty stockish but the waranty just ended so it's planning time.
[COLOR="Blue"][URL="http://www.outlawedoffroad.com"]Outlawed Offroad[/URL][/COLOR] - LI/NY Jeepers
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10-20-2009, 11:53 PM
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#97
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Man... so much for going to bed Magnetman. On a side note, I KNOW that i touch the carpet daily when fully hot. I would imagine a good liner should be able to insulate enough to make it not BURN you if you touch it. At 1/2" there should be enough material to protect you.
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10-20-2009, 11:55 PM
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#98
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckrider
Man... so much for going to bed Magnetman. On a side note, I KNOW that i touch the carpet daily when fully hot. I would imagine a good liner should be able to insulate enough to make it not BURN you if you touch it. At 1/2" there should be enough material to protect you.
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You guys keep writing
I'll only have to answer tomorrow
EVERYONE GO TO BED!
S*** I missed the 70's show
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10-20-2009, 11:58 PM
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#99
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rottenpuppets
Oceanside. It's 5+ if the bridge is up tho.  If you need stock Jeep Wrangler measurements, temps, etc. drop me a PM I have some time late in the day tomorrow and I can swing by the shop if needed.
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Are you talking bout coming to Amityville?
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10-21-2009, 12:04 AM
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#100
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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OK... So I was looking over the pics on the site. What is up with the angled pics to show the texture. Shut the flash off and get a straight on pic man, I want to see what the finish really is like. It looks a little funny with the camera angle offset. The Jeeps bumper and flare look much better than the close up from the rat bed.
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10-21-2009, 12:07 AM
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#101
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckrider
OK... So I was looking over the pics on the site. What is up with the angled pics to show the texture. Shut the flash off and get a straight on pic man, I want to see what the finish really is like. It looks a little funny with the camera angle offset. The Jeeps bumper and flare look much better than the close up from the rat bed.
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how's this
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10-21-2009, 12:11 AM
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#102
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Actually, that is much better, I must not have been looking very well. It is late, I am writing my English Essay, and I only looked for a few seconds.
Edit: this is the pic I was looking for
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10-21-2009, 12:15 AM
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#103
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Ok, so I have another question. Would using a roller with less Knapp create a slightly smoother finish? I think the current finish looks great, but I think there may be instances where a smoother finish may look better, or be preferable to different people.
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10-21-2009, 12:28 AM
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#104
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Caveman Chemist
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Amityville, NY
Posts: 6,493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckrider
Ok, so I have another question. Would using a roller with less Knapp create a slightly smoother finish? I think the current finish looks great, but I think there may be instances where a smoother finish may look better, or be preferable to different people.
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Last answer for the eve..
I've rolled it with many types of rollers and yes you can get smoother finish.
Need to experiment even adding little bit reducer.
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10-21-2009, 12:44 AM
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#105
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NY - 12550
Posts: 8,574
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Good night man.
It is nice to know there are different options for how textured the finish can be. It seems like the more questions answered, the more questions I ask.
I got a rear bumper custom made from one of the forum members here, and I am painting it with Rustoleum Hammered Paint. Would it be a problem painting right over this, I don't think it would with a light sand. Would you be sending out trim kits with little paint chips to determine texture? And how hard is it to paint over it? Can you use regular metal paint, or is it more advisable to use a paint designed for plastic due to the nature of the product? Basically, I am asking if there is expansion and contraction is it like all plastics have.
So to have kept you up so late, and sorry for all of the questions. I won't be starting a full build till after college, so I am in the process of learning as much as possible. I can only do stuff should something come my way (My bodyshop is actually buying the bumper from me for $2 more than I paid with paint, and it is the other insurance company paying us to pay the bodyshop).
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Tags
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ballsack
,
bed liner
,
Bedliner
,
diy
,
herc
,
herculiner
,
liner
,
monstaliner
,
penis
,
POR 15
,
protection
,
raptor
,
rust
,
upol
,
vendor
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