Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 649 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-03-2013, 06:04 PM   #9721
jrp78
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Hey MagnetMan. I bought a kit last year but never had time to apply it. I ordered it on 4/25/12. Its been in climate control for the past 6 months. If I can get it done within a month or two, will I be OK? The FAQ says a 12 month shelf life and I'm right at it

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Unread 04-03-2013, 06:28 PM   #9722
rain1
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Ok, so a few weeks ago when I decided to get serious about looking into liners for my TJ tub I stumbled upon Monstaliner and specifically this thread. I was immediately hooked when I started reading about the ease of installation and seeing some pics of the results, and I love the thought of throwing out my carpets and not looking back! I will be ordering my kit tonight and hopefully applying next weekend, but I just finished reading this ENTIRE thread (yes all 9721 posts) and thought I would give back to the good folks that forged the way for ML. I can honestly say that reading this thread was like reading a good book that you can't put down (can't believe it spanned to major Northeast hurricanes!!!!). I got to read the evolution of Monsta firsthand and am finally ready to order my kit and lose my Monstaginity (and hopefully keep it off my hootus), but first I want to share a list of notes that I compiled on this thread. Hopefully it helps to answer some of the repeated questions. It is all stuff that I read on this thread and wanted to remember along the way:

Miscellaneous Tips:
-use foam ear plugs in bolt holes to prevent ML from getting in threads (people had good luck with rolled up newspaper or tape as well)
-use anit-seize when reinstalling bolts (put a little under the head to prevent underside of the head from bonding to the Montsa if you ever need to take them out in the future)
-buy a set of stainless fasteners to put back in
-prior to lining, scuff up existing paint with 120 grit sandpaper, being careful not to go through the paint
-wipe down surface with MEK before and after scuffing
-get “MEK proof” gloves (Nitrile has been suggested)
-buy extra rollers and the trim kit (use Gorilla glue to attach wooden paint stirrers to the foam blocks that come with the trim kit to make them easier to reach into tough areas)
-pull up tape immediately following application of second coat to prevent pulling up liner
-mist the liner with water as soon as 10 hours after final coat to help it cure (it cures with moisture)
-avoid rainy/humid days, best weather is low 60's with lower than 65% humidity
on first coat, use the foam blocks and brush to work the coating into the hard-to-reach areas and the roller for the remaining areas, -focus on complete coverage with the first coat
-focus on surface texture with the supplied roller on the second coat (keep changing rollers if they start to fall apart)
-do not waste time removing seam sealer from tub seams, many people have said they coated over it with no issues
-Chassis Saver can be applied to rusty metal (just scrape off loose paint/rust and wire brush it), and it makes a good base for ML to adhere to
-get throw-away brushes for Chassis Saver (and have some handy if needed for ML), synthetic black bristle has been suggested, no natural or china bristle, get out loose bristles before starting

Preventing Premature Hardening of Liner:
-make sure all taping and prep is done before mixing ML
-get a narrow roller tray and not a wide one like used to paint your walls
-Black: Mix liner + catalyst. If you're doing a color, mix Liner + color + catalyst (follow color mixing directions on last page of install guide)
-pour only small amounts into roller pan at a time (keep lid on at all times)
-When 1st coat is complete, scrape down inside walls of gallon can so everything falls into remaining liquid. Then drizzle 3 - 4 oz of MEK or Acetone over surface of remaining coating in can and leave it undisturbed until beginning of 2nd coat, seal can tight.
-When starting 2nd coat inspect inside can for lumps/skin and scoop out if necessary. Re-power mix contents mixing in the solvent floating on surface.
-Do not work in direct sunlight and never coat hot surfaces. Work inside a garage if possible

Chassis Saver over Rusted Areas:
To apply Chassis Saver over rust, wire brush the rust to remove any loose, powering or crusty material. You can also sand the rusted areas with 60 grit paper. Blow down or vacuum to remove all debris and wipe with MEK. Apply Chassis Saver in 2 thin coats (no puddling or extra heavy brush coats). Allow 3 to 4 hours between coats. 1 coat only is sufficient if you are applying Monstaliner within 24 hrs. If you plan to leave it longer before installing Monstaliner, do 2 coats of Chassis Saver.

Chassis Saver over Previous Paint:
On previously painted areas, scuff to remove gloss and generate a light dust with scuff pads or 60 grit sandpaper. Clean surface as above and apply only 1 coat of Chassis Saver.

Topcoating Chassis Saver with Monstaliner
Chassis Saver can be topcoated in as little as 6 hours with Monstaliner. If Chassis Saver is allowed to cure more than 24 hours, surfaces should be scuff sanded with 120 to 180 grit sandpaper. (This applies to recoating with itself or any other coating)

Sorry for the long post, but I think I earned it by reading every post. Magnet, let me know if I have anything incorrect in the info above.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 06:49 PM   #9723
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp78 View Post
Hey MagnetMan. I bought a kit last year but never had time to apply it. I ordered it on 4/25/12. Its been in climate control for the past 6 months. If I can get it done within a month or two, will I be OK? The FAQ says a 12 month shelf life and I'm right at it
Tintable is no issue
If it's black you want to check that there's no hard sediment before you get closer to installation.

What's the date on top of the gallon(s)?
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:03 PM   #9724
jrp78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Tintable is no issue
If it's black you want to check that there's no hard sediment before you get closer to installation.

What's the date on top of the gallon(s)?
It's black. The date on the top of the gallon is 3/20/12 Should I just open it up and use a stick to see if I feel hard sediment?

Edit: even if there is, can i remove it and use the good portions? I really don't need the whole gallon. I anticipated having some leftover that would be wasted anyway.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:23 PM   #9725
SkippyPB13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman

Nuclear Winter will be a VERY pale gray, basically an off white

Balls may be a charcoal purple
Charcoal purple??? Please elaborate!!
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:34 PM   #9726
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp78 View Post
It's black. The date on the top of the gallon is 3/20/12 Should I just open it up and use a stick to see if I feel hard sediment?

Edit: even if there is, can i remove it and use the good portions? I really don't need the whole gallon. I anticipated having some leftover that would be wasted anyway.
90% confidence that date is fine. We had a settling issue with black a long time ago. Formula adjustments were made and I have not heard of the issue since

Need to open it carefully without mangling the lid. If one spot won't lift don't force it. Turn can to new spot and pry up lid

Push wooden mix stick straight to bottom of gallon and touch the bottom. If you feel gel it's fine. If you hit cement it will be tough to re-mix.

Let me know what happens. I'm pretty sure it will be OK
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:37 PM   #9727
jrp78
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Ok, I will let you know. I have plans to do it soon since the weather is starting to get better. Thanks Magnetman!
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:39 PM   #9728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkippyPB13 View Post
Charcoal purple??? Please elaborate!!
Remember in high school the color your balls would get when your teenage GF would not finish the job

I found this a while ago and thought it would be a great color for ML. Did some samples but never finished fine tuning it
295172_400190400006193_193249124033656_1406020_387941272_n.jpg  
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:44 PM   #9729
rain1
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Placed my order! Hoping it warms up for next weekend, spring can't come soon enough.
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:53 PM   #9730
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Hood Shots have slowed to crawl. This sticker is on top of all UPS packages. Everyone please email photos if possible to
info@monstaliner.com or hoodshots@monstaliner.com or you can even send them to my cell 516-313-7865

Thanks

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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:55 PM   #9731
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rain1 View Post
Placed my order! Hoping it warms up for next weekend, spring can't come soon enough.
I see it, thanks!

I will get to read your outline later, It looks awesome
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:56 PM   #9732
flcracker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Hood Shots have slowed to crawl. This sticker is on top of all UPS packages. Everyone please email photos if possible to
info@monstaliner.com or hoodshots@monstaliner.com or you can even send them to my cell 516-313-7865

Thanks
I'll tape the box up and take a picture on my newly monstalined hood. Is that what you're looking for??
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Unread 04-03-2013, 07:59 PM   #9733
rain1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
I see it, thanks!

I will get to read your outline later, It looks awesome
Thanks, hopefully I got it all straight. I'll be sure to get you a hood shot. Thanks for the great deal too. Over $50 savings
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Unread 04-03-2013, 08:06 PM   #9734
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I'll tape the box up and take a picture on my newly monstalined hood. Is that what you're looking for??
Anything is good as long as it shows a logo, label, can, box, decal, etc

It gives me some new material to post on FB every few days
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Unread 04-03-2013, 08:36 PM   #9735
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We have past 600,000 views coming up soon on 10K posts

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bed liner , Bedliner , diy , herc , herculiner , liner , monstaliner , POR 15 , protection , raptor , rust , upol , vendor

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