Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 644 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-19-2013, 10:44 AM   #9646
bedwards24676
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Hey monstaman. I have a question. Really want to spray the exterior of my yj jeep. Will one gallon be enough. Or even will two gallons be over kill (too thick). And what's the difference between the two spray guns on your site besides price. I'm wanting to go white and am prepping the jeep as we speak. Let me know what you think.

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Unread 03-19-2013, 12:35 PM   #9647
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaWrangler View Post
Not sure if it's been covered, but how much, if any road noise is reduced with a typical application?

Thanks.
Small amount of reduction compared to bare tub
Not equal to what carpet offered
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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:05 PM   #9648
Rittsy
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Will Krylon Fusion or anyother type of rattle can paint stick to this once its dry?
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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:11 PM   #9649
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rittsy View Post
Will Krylon Fusion or anyother type of rattle can paint stick to this once its dry?
I don't see a problem with rattle can sticking as long as you light scuff and solvent clean first

Fusion is water base so make sure the solvent used to clean is fully evaporated first
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Unread 03-19-2013, 06:34 PM   #9650
Dyn0mitemat
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I bought a full kit, and plan on doing my bumpers, rockers, skids, etc. I have a coat of crappy paint on them now (ACE brand 'Stop Rust'), I was planning on stripping it all off, getting everything to bare steel, before I put the monstaliner on.

After I strip it, do I just wipe clean with Xek (or w/e its name is) and go to town with monsta, or am I better off putting something on the bare metal first. The metal isn't perfectly smooth, I built everything and just about everything got hit with a flap disc on a angle grinder before I put the current paint on.

Thanks in advance
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Unread 03-19-2013, 08:25 PM   #9651
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
I bought a full kit, and plan on doing my bumpers, rockers, skids, etc. I have a coat of crappy paint on them now (ACE brand 'Stop Rust'), I was planning on stripping it all off, getting everything to bare steel, before I put the monstaliner on.

After I strip it, do I just wipe clean with Xek (or w/e its name is) and go to town with monsta, or am I better off putting something on the bare metal first. The metal isn't perfectly smooth, I built everything and just about everything got hit with a flap disc on a angle grinder before I put the current paint on.

Thanks in advance
If you going to have bare metal you must prime first. Rustoleum "Automotive" spray can primer works or the 2 primers we sell on the ML web site, Universal 1K or Epoxy 2K. Both can be brushed, rolled or sprayed

Last edited by magnetman; 03-19-2013 at 09:38 PM..
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Unread 03-19-2013, 09:16 PM   #9652
Dyn0mitemat
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Thank you sir!
I want to go down to the bare metal because this stuff feels like candle/crayon wax, you can just dig and scrape it off with your fingernails, and there's a few spots where theres orange (rust) streaks, so I know its not sealing the metal completely.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 09:33 PM   #9653
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I got a question for everyone....

I realize that a 2 quart kit (1/2 gallon) of 2K epoxy primer is a bit much for many small projects like Dyn0mitemat describes and it sells for about $52 bucks

If a 1 pint kit (2 x 8 ounce cans) of 2K Epoxy primer were available that would cover about 50 sq feet for the kit, would we sell them? Appx price would be $19.50

Or... a 1 quart kit (2 x 16 oz cans) to cover 100 sq ft for appx $33.50

Opinions?
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Unread 03-19-2013, 10:11 PM   #9654
Dyn0mitemat
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I'd be up for buying either one. I won't be doing the monstaliner for a few weeks still, so I got time to get everything I need.

And I'd like to stay away from rattle can products for this use just for durability, I bought monstaliner to hold up, I'd rather not trust it to a rattle can primer sticking.

Last two questions (you gotta be getting tired of answering these haha, 600+ pages...)
I wanna do my fiberglass flares as well, they've just got a coat of rattle can black on them, can I just scuff and start spreading the monstaliner? Or am I better off stripping/priming like the rest of the stuff I plan on doing?

And I keep hearing people talk about it drying fast (well, maybe not fast, but you can't take 4 hours to get it on either). What do I do with the can of monstaliner in-between coats? I don't want it to dry/harden up before I can even get a second coat on. Or should I mix it in batches/parts of just what I need?
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Unread 03-19-2013, 10:48 PM   #9655
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
I'd be up for buying either one. I won't be doing the monstaliner for a few weeks still, so I got time to get everything I need.

And I'd like to stay away from rattle can products for this use just for durability, I bought monstaliner to hold up, I'd rather not trust it to a rattle can primer sticking.

Last two questions (you gotta be getting tired of answering these haha, 600+ pages...)
I wanna do my fiberglass flares as well, they've just got a coat of rattle can black on them, can I just scuff and start spreading the monstaliner? Or am I better off stripping/priming like the rest of the stuff I plan on doing?

And I keep hearing people talk about it drying fast (well, maybe not fast, but you can't take 4 hours to get it on either). What do I do with the can of monstaliner in-between coats? I don't want it to dry/harden up before I can even get a second coat on. Or should I mix it in batches/parts of just what I need?
This is my job man

On the flares, how long is the rattle can stuff on there?

On between coats, preventing drying/hardening/spoiling of mixed liner, this is how it's done:

1) Have all cleaning, prep, scuffing, priming, etc done before you even think about mixing liner. Preferably, get all this prep done the day before you plan to roll the liner.

2) IMPORTANT: If you have a 1 gallon kit that does not include the narrow roller pan, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one. DO NOT USE A WIDE ROLLER PAN LIKE USED TO PAINT YOUR WALLS

2) Black: Mix liner + catalyst. If you're doing a color, mix Liner + color + catalyst (follow color mixing directions on last page of install guide)

3) Pour small amounts of mixed liner into narrow roller pan and keep the lid on the liner can or color mix bucket at all times.
Apply your first coat everywhere. THIS IS THE TRICK: When done with 1st coat, scrape down the inside walls of the liner can so minimal if any liner clings to the sides.
Drizzle a small amount of MEK, Acetone or MEK Substitute over the surface of the remaining liner (just a couple of ounces, enough to cover the top of the leftovers with a very thin solvent layer)

4) Seal the can tightly. Just before you start your 2nd coat, open can and touch the surface. It should be wet from the solvent you poured in there. Power mix the contents and do your 2nd coat.

Follow the above guide and you will have no issues. I do this regularly and can come back 3, 4 even 5 hrs later and the stuff is fine to use. THICKER but this is what you want on the 2nd coat to get great texture.
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Unread 03-19-2013, 11:16 PM   #9656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
If a 1 pint kit (2 x 8 ounce cans) of 2K Epoxy primer were available that would cover about 50 sq feet for the kit, would we sell them? Appx price would be $19.50
That is exactly the reason I didn't buy the primer from you. If I'm only going to go through a quart of liner, I don't want all that primer at such a steep price. If I hadn't already placed my order AND bought the Rustoleum spray, I would DEFINITELY have ordered a pint of epoxy primer from you.
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Unread 03-20-2013, 09:34 AM   #9657
pods8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Aha!~

I just placed an order this week for a load of decent masks that will sell for around $20


What make cartridges are you running there? When are these going to be available? How do these stack up verse the 3M 6001s?


For a rolling application where the isocyanate vapors will be minimal verse spraying do you have any recommendation for cartridge change out? I'm going to have some large surfaces to cover and want to make sure I have cartridges on hand and my lungs stay happy!

Last edited by pods8; 03-20-2013 at 11:17 AM..
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Unread 03-20-2013, 12:38 PM   #9658
jrallen
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I want to share a trick I saw the other day on Trucks on SpikeTV...

Take a can of butane (what you'd use to fill up a lighter) and spray the fumes into the can of Monsta. Because it's heavier than air, the butane will displace the oxygen, prohibiting the Monsta from curing. To keep the can from sealing itself shut, place a plastic bag over the lid (this creates a barrier) then close the lid.

Hope this helps!
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Unread 03-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #9659
Dyn0mitemat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
This is my job man

On the flares, how long is the rattle can stuff on there?

...
...


Well that's the dictionary definition of good customer service then

The flares i rattle can'd black just a few weeks ago, I was putting them on and didn't want primer so I just hit them with one coat of spray paint until I could get around to getting the ML on everything.

Used this spray paint:
http://www.krylonindustrial.com/prod...rimer_aerosols

Overtop of normal fiberglass work, it looked like they were primed before I got them so I just scuffed and sprayed
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Unread 03-20-2013, 08:13 PM   #9660
lynskynbnd
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Is Chassis Saver a good base for Monstaliner?

I've done the inside of my Tub in Chassis saver already. I plan to Monstaliner the whole body, in and outside.
I'll have yellow fenders, black hood and windshield frame, and blue tub to start. By covering those colors with black chassis saver I believe I'll get a more even color ith the Monstaliner. Doing Dark Burnt Orange and I want it as dark as possible.
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