Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 644 - JeepForum.com

 7Likes
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #9646 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 10:44 AM
bedwards24676
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Brewton
Posts: 262
Hey monstaman. I have a question. Really want to spray the exterior of my yj jeep. Will one gallon be enough. Or even will two gallons be over kill (too thick). And what's the difference between the two spray guns on your site besides price. I'm wanting to go white and am prepping the jeep as we speak. Let me know what you think.

bedwards24676 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #9647 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
Caveman Chemist
 
magnetman's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cullman
Posts: 11,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by BuffaWrangler View Post
Not sure if it's been covered, but how much, if any road noise is reduced with a typical application?

Thanks.
Small amount of reduction compared to bare tub
Not equal to what carpet offered
magnetman is offline  
post #9648 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 06:05 PM
Rittsy
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Halifax
Posts: 54
Will Krylon Fusion or anyother type of rattle can paint stick to this once its dry?

Rittsy

2000 Jeep TJ Stock. except for the CB radio :)
Rittsy is offline  
post #9649 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
Caveman Chemist
 
magnetman's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cullman
Posts: 11,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rittsy View Post
Will Krylon Fusion or anyother type of rattle can paint stick to this once its dry?
I don't see a problem with rattle can sticking as long as you light scuff and solvent clean first

Fusion is water base so make sure the solvent used to clean is fully evaporated first
magnetman is offline  
post #9650 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 06:34 PM
Dyn0mitemat
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 1,307
I bought a full kit, and plan on doing my bumpers, rockers, skids, etc. I have a coat of crappy paint on them now (ACE brand 'Stop Rust'), I was planning on stripping it all off, getting everything to bare steel, before I put the monstaliner on.

After I strip it, do I just wipe clean with Xek (or w/e its name is) and go to town with monsta, or am I better off putting something on the bare metal first. The metal isn't perfectly smooth, I built everything and just about everything got hit with a flap disc on a angle grinder before I put the current paint on.

Thanks in advance

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
Dyn0mitemat is offline  
post #9651 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
Caveman Chemist
 
magnetman's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cullman
Posts: 11,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
I bought a full kit, and plan on doing my bumpers, rockers, skids, etc. I have a coat of crappy paint on them now (ACE brand 'Stop Rust'), I was planning on stripping it all off, getting everything to bare steel, before I put the monstaliner on.

After I strip it, do I just wipe clean with Xek (or w/e its name is) and go to town with monsta, or am I better off putting something on the bare metal first. The metal isn't perfectly smooth, I built everything and just about everything got hit with a flap disc on a angle grinder before I put the current paint on.

Thanks in advance
If you going to have bare metal you must prime first. Rustoleum "Automotive" spray can primer works or the 2 primers we sell on the ML web site, Universal 1K or Epoxy 2K. Both can be brushed, rolled or sprayed

Last edited by magnetman; 03-19-2013 at 09:38 PM.
magnetman is offline  
post #9652 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 09:16 PM
Dyn0mitemat
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 1,307
Thank you sir!
I want to go down to the bare metal because this stuff feels like candle/crayon wax, you can just dig and scrape it off with your fingernails, and there's a few spots where theres orange (rust) streaks, so I know its not sealing the metal completely.

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
Dyn0mitemat is offline  
post #9653 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
Caveman Chemist
 
magnetman's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cullman
Posts: 11,325
I got a question for everyone....

I realize that a 2 quart kit (1/2 gallon) of 2K epoxy primer is a bit much for many small projects like Dyn0mitemat describes and it sells for about $52 bucks

If a 1 pint kit (2 x 8 ounce cans) of 2K Epoxy primer were available that would cover about 50 sq feet for the kit, would we sell them? Appx price would be $19.50

Or... a 1 quart kit (2 x 16 oz cans) to cover 100 sq ft for appx $33.50

Opinions?
magnetman is offline  
post #9654 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 10:11 PM
Dyn0mitemat
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 1,307
I'd be up for buying either one. I won't be doing the monstaliner for a few weeks still, so I got time to get everything I need.

And I'd like to stay away from rattle can products for this use just for durability, I bought monstaliner to hold up, I'd rather not trust it to a rattle can primer sticking.

Last two questions (you gotta be getting tired of answering these haha, 600+ pages...)
I wanna do my fiberglass flares as well, they've just got a coat of rattle can black on them, can I just scuff and start spreading the monstaliner? Or am I better off stripping/priming like the rest of the stuff I plan on doing?

And I keep hearing people talk about it drying fast (well, maybe not fast, but you can't take 4 hours to get it on either). What do I do with the can of monstaliner in-between coats? I don't want it to dry/harden up before I can even get a second coat on. Or should I mix it in batches/parts of just what I need?

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
Dyn0mitemat is offline  
post #9655 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
Caveman Chemist
 
magnetman's Avatar
2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Cullman
Posts: 11,325
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyn0mitemat View Post
I'd be up for buying either one. I won't be doing the monstaliner for a few weeks still, so I got time to get everything I need.

And I'd like to stay away from rattle can products for this use just for durability, I bought monstaliner to hold up, I'd rather not trust it to a rattle can primer sticking.

Last two questions (you gotta be getting tired of answering these haha, 600+ pages...)
I wanna do my fiberglass flares as well, they've just got a coat of rattle can black on them, can I just scuff and start spreading the monstaliner? Or am I better off stripping/priming like the rest of the stuff I plan on doing?

And I keep hearing people talk about it drying fast (well, maybe not fast, but you can't take 4 hours to get it on either). What do I do with the can of monstaliner in-between coats? I don't want it to dry/harden up before I can even get a second coat on. Or should I mix it in batches/parts of just what I need?
This is my job man

On the flares, how long is the rattle can stuff on there?

On between coats, preventing drying/hardening/spoiling of mixed liner, this is how it's done:

1) Have all cleaning, prep, scuffing, priming, etc done before you even think about mixing liner. Preferably, get all this prep done the day before you plan to roll the liner.

2) IMPORTANT: If you have a 1 gallon kit that does not include the narrow roller pan, go to Home Depot or Lowes and get one. DO NOT USE A WIDE ROLLER PAN LIKE USED TO PAINT YOUR WALLS

2) Black: Mix liner + catalyst. If you're doing a color, mix Liner + color + catalyst (follow color mixing directions on last page of install guide)

3) Pour small amounts of mixed liner into narrow roller pan and keep the lid on the liner can or color mix bucket at all times.
Apply your first coat everywhere. THIS IS THE TRICK: When done with 1st coat, scrape down the inside walls of the liner can so minimal if any liner clings to the sides.
Drizzle a small amount of MEK, Acetone or MEK Substitute over the surface of the remaining liner (just a couple of ounces, enough to cover the top of the leftovers with a very thin solvent layer)

4) Seal the can tightly. Just before you start your 2nd coat, open can and touch the surface. It should be wet from the solvent you poured in there. Power mix the contents and do your 2nd coat.

Follow the above guide and you will have no issues. I do this regularly and can come back 3, 4 even 5 hrs later and the stuff is fine to use. THICKER but this is what you want on the 2nd coat to get great texture.
magnetman is offline  
post #9656 of 13185 Old 03-19-2013, 11:16 PM
smcutter
Registered User
2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Broomfield
Posts: 1,206
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman
If a 1 pint kit (2 x 8 ounce cans) of 2K Epoxy primer were available that would cover about 50 sq feet for the kit, would we sell them? Appx price would be $19.50
That is exactly the reason I didn't buy the primer from you. If I'm only going to go through a quart of liner, I don't want all that primer at such a steep price. If I hadn't already placed my order AND bought the Rustoleum spray, I would DEFINITELY have ordered a pint of epoxy primer from you.

2012 Rubicon (Black, Soft Top, Heated Seats, 6spd)
Rugged Ridge XHD Front Bumper and a Warn PowerPlant HP Winch
ACE Rock Sliders

More of a Tinkering Thread than a Build Thread (smcutter)

Colorado Jeep Club Member #302
Keep Calm and Chive On!
And for the record, I'm probably judging you for your bad grammar or spelling.
smcutter is offline  
post #9657 of 13185 Old 03-20-2013, 09:34 AM
pods8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Boulder
Posts: 104
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Aha!~

I just placed an order this week for a load of decent masks that will sell for around $20


What make cartridges are you running there? When are these going to be available? How do these stack up verse the 3M 6001s?


For a rolling application where the isocyanate vapors will be minimal verse spraying do you have any recommendation for cartridge change out? I'm going to have some large surfaces to cover and want to make sure I have cartridges on hand and my lungs stay happy!

Last edited by pods8; 03-20-2013 at 11:17 AM.
pods8 is offline  
post #9658 of 13185 Old 03-20-2013, 12:38 PM
jrallen
Registered User
2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Prattville
Posts: 1,036
Garage
I want to share a trick I saw the other day on Trucks on SpikeTV...

Take a can of butane (what you'd use to fill up a lighter) and spray the fumes into the can of Monsta. Because it's heavier than air, the butane will displace the oxygen, prohibiting the Monsta from curing. To keep the can from sealing itself shut, place a plastic bag over the lid (this creates a barrier) then close the lid.

Hope this helps!
jrallen is offline  
post #9659 of 13185 Old 03-20-2013, 03:54 PM
Dyn0mitemat
Registered User
1998 ZJ 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: BC
Posts: 1,307
Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
This is my job man

On the flares, how long is the rattle can stuff on there?

...
...


Well that's the dictionary definition of good customer service then

The flares i rattle can'd black just a few weeks ago, I was putting them on and didn't want primer so I just hit them with one coat of spray paint until I could get around to getting the ML on everything.

Used this spray paint:
http://www.krylonindustrial.com/prod...rimer_aerosols

Overtop of normal fiberglass work, it looked like they were primed before I got them so I just scuffed and sprayed

09 Rubi 2dr:MetalCloak2.5", 37"MTZ's/Slabs, EVO Stff, ORFab Cage, Chromo's, Driveshafts etc
Dyn0mitemat is offline  
post #9660 of 13185 Old 03-20-2013, 08:13 PM
lynskynbnd
Registered User
1987 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: warrenton
Posts: 179
Is Chassis Saver a good base for Monstaliner?

I've done the inside of my Tub in Chassis saver already. I plan to Monstaliner the whole body, in and outside.
I'll have yellow fenders, black hood and windshield frame, and blue tub to start. By covering those colors with black chassis saver I believe I'll get a more even color ith the Monstaliner. Doing Dark Burnt Orange and I want it as dark as possible.
lynskynbnd is offline  
Reply

Tags
bed liner , Bedliner , diy , herc , herculiner , liner , monstaliner , POR 15 , protection , raptor , rust , upol , vendor

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.



Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome