Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 607 - JeepForum.com

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post #9091 of 13210 Old 10-03-2012, 08:57 PM
Handsomefloyd
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Moosup
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Everything is out! - ready to rock and roll, but first a few quick questions. Will the MEK take off tape residue? Previous owner had some duct tape over the plugs and some Velcro holding down the carpet. Also I have some screw holes in the tub that I'd like to cover before applying the Monstaliner. Any suggestions for filling in those holes? Finally there is some sort of goop (looks like roofing tar) around where I pulled off my shifter boot. Again, is this something that the MEK should be able to take care of? I plan on finishing my prep work tomorrow then paint on Friday.

Open to all hints and recommendations at this point. Thanks in advance-








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post #9092 of 13210 Old 10-03-2012, 09:37 PM
tjsean0308
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
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so the install guide says not to expose the coating to temps below 50 degrees for 12 hours? is here any leway in this? i prepped today and wanted to spray tomorrow. Weather says its going to drop to about 40, this could be my last chance out here on the northwest coast till spring. Should i do it? its in a unheated garage and I'm spraying it.

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post #9093 of 13210 Old 10-03-2012, 11:43 PM
Nightstr
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Subd for future promos.
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post #9094 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 07:06 AM
SideshowBob024
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Are colored quarts ever going to happen?
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post #9095 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 01:03 PM
mooncruiser
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SideshowBob024 View Post
Are colored quarts ever going to happen?
Yes...they have them, give them a call.
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post #9096 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 06:14 PM
Handsomefloyd
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2nd day of prep complete. Monstaliner goes on tomorrow.

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post #9097 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 06:14 PM
tjsean0308
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well I did it.

After a chat with the tech line in NY decided I should worry less about the temperature and more about the humidity. Its right at about 60 degrees for the high today but its about as dry as I have seen it in 8 months so with 60% humidity I went for it. The guy I talked to (didn't ask his name maybe Eric) said 60% was plenty humid enough for it to cure and that with it that humid the low temp should be ok. Obviously not ideal but better than warmer and wetter which is most likely the only other option this close to a rain forest.
My compressor is a mismatched bunch of compressor parts that I put together for free. It had a hard time keeping 40psi to spray with.
Its the same one I used for the raptor so I expected this. I did not expect the Montaliner to be so thick. You could really see it in the spray pattern as soon as it got down to 40 psi it would start spattering more than spraying. I highly recommend a cheap pressure regulator right at the gun so you can compensate for the quick drop in pressure if you have a questionable compressor like I do. A bit of fiddling kept the pressure where I wanted it for one pass around the tub.

Comparing this product to Raptor is really not fair. Its a much better product you can tell that just by how it sprays and how thick it is when mixed, you can just see the ceramic in it and it looks a bit like metal flake.

And I can say that with experience, this is my third product like this and my fourth project.

Before shots,



passenger side floor, the green is self etching primer and a spot where the raptor had peeled reveling rust.



Here is the driver side roll bar mounting this was the most rusted area and I had wire wheeled it and primed it three years ago. The raptor didn't seem to slow the rust much.



overall inside.

Here are some pictures of the texture and such sprayed at 40 psi or as close as I could keep it with my tools. at 60 degrees and 60% humidity.



macro shot with the footman loop for size reference.



The tailgate bar area and the lip for the soft top.



Top of the tailgate.



overall inside.



driver side floor.

so far very pleased I look forward to the cured final product.
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post #9098 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 06:43 PM
BeepBeepGoJeep
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1994 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Purcellville
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Yea no roller pan or mixing sticks...

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post #9099 of 13210 Old 10-04-2012, 11:29 PM
Neudiin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeepBeepGoJeep View Post
Yea no roller pan or mixing sticks...
1 or 2 gal kit?
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post #9100 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 09:34 AM
BeepBeepGoJeep
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Does anybody know if this stuff is ok to lay overtop of bondo?

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post #9101 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 06:09 PM
semperfi1919
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1976 CJ5 
 
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Was just wanting to make sure I was right, I got my tub sanded down today, and alot of it is to the metal, I already have my primer and monstaliner, How long after I spray the primer can I wait before I put on the monstaliner before I have to scuff up the primer. My primer is the universal high solids primer I got with the kit, Also do I need to wait the full 12 hrs of cure time on the primer before spraying the monstaliner on top of it, Thanks

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post #9102 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 07:27 PM
ospreyfe55
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2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
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I cant seem to find the answer but does anyone remember what color Chassis saver was best to use before MLing? I thought he said something about black not being compatible but it was either the satin or the gloss! Also I had some light rust after pulling my roll bar and after cleaning up some of the factory seam sealer, I know have bare metal, is it ok to use CS over it or should I just lay down the ML over the bare metal? And if I need to put the CS down on the bare metal should I do that before I lay down the new seam sealer?
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post #9103 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 08:44 PM
mooncruiser
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ospreyfe55 View Post
I cant seem to find the answer but does anyone remember what color Chassis saver was best to use before MLing? I thought he said something about black not being compatible but it was either the satin or the gloss! Also I had some light rust after pulling my roll bar and after cleaning up some of the factory seam sealer, I know have bare metal, is it ok to use CS over it or should I just lay down the ML over the bare metal? And if I need to put the CS down on the bare metal should I do that before I lay down the new seam sealer?
Gloss black. Don't apply th ML to the bare metal
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post #9104 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 08:52 PM
Jims-87YJ
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Location: Lansdale, Pa 19446
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ML over Primer

Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1919 View Post
Was just wanting to make sure I was right, I got my tub sanded down today, and alot of it is to the metal, I already have my primer and monstaliner, How long after I spray the primer can I wait before I put on the monstaliner before I have to scuff up the primer. My primer is the universal high solids primer I got with the kit, Also do I need to wait the full 12 hrs of cure time on the primer before spraying the monstaliner on top of it, Thanks
You want to apply the Monsta with in the Re-coat window of the primer (what ever that is) If you what till it is cured you will have to scuff sand.
When I did mine I used PPG epoxy primer and If I recall it had a 48 hr re-coat window. I waited 12 hours (the next day and sprayed the Monsta.

1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/

Last edited by Jims-87YJ; 10-05-2012 at 08:53 PM. Reason: missing word
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post #9105 of 13210 Old 10-05-2012, 10:34 PM
ospreyfe55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mooncruiser

Gloss black. Don't apply th ML to the bare metal
I went ahead and used some self etching primer to all the bare metal spots. So the gloss black is the one to use with ML? I remember talking to Eric about it and I ended up with gloss black in my kit. But vaguely remember him mentioning that satin or gloss was not compatible. So when I opened the box and to my surprise was black!!! But it's gloss.
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bed liner , Bedliner , diy , herc , herculiner , liner , monstaliner , POR 15 , protection , raptor , rust , upol , vendor

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