Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 60 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-04-2010, 03:39 PM   #886
Viencent
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just a update on my install here, the Rustoleum on the roll bars is the first new issue. MEK takes it right off, so stripped them down to metal, not taking a chance with it not sticking again. the rest of the tub has been stripped, sanded, MEKed and then I went ahead and put down a single layer of Chassis Saver on the tub and bars, next friday I will do a sanding of the tub and bars, wipe down with MEK again then saturday do the liner, will post pics next weekend


Last edited by Viencent; 04-04-2010 at 04:15 PM..
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Unread 04-04-2010, 03:58 PM   #887
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Good luck. I had no issues coating over Rustoleum Hammered paint, but I guess what you used is different.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 04:05 PM   #888
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I just remembered something. I was looking at the Chassis Saver stuff and read on the label it can't be put on aluminum. I was going to coat my rear axle with the Chassis Saver, but the center section of the differential is made of aluminum. Will it not adhere to it or will it eat at the aluminum or what?

Just wondering.
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Unread 04-04-2010, 04:10 PM   #889
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
I just remembered something. I was looking at the Chassis Saver stuff and read on the label it can't be put on aluminum. I was going to coat my rear axle with the Chassis Saver, but the center section of the differential is made of aluminum. Will it not adhere to it or will it eat at the aluminum or what?

Just wondering.
Interesting. I want to know now too. I noticed MagnetMan hasn't been on in a couple of days, but I am assuming he is enjoying this holiday weekend.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 05:43 AM   #890
Ironworker709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
I just remembered something. I was looking at the Chassis Saver stuff and read on the label it can't be put on aluminum. I was going to coat my rear axle with the Chassis Saver, but the center section of the differential is made of aluminum. Will it not adhere to it or will it eat at the aluminum or what?

Just wondering.
I would think using an etching primer,then chassis saver and then monstsaliner would work.
The problem with aluminum is not really the monstaliner or chassis saver,it's hard to get anything to adhere well to it.
Aluminum creates a sort of film/dust after a few years of exposure.
The best way i've had any luck with any coating over Aluminum is a really GOOD sanding,then an etching primer,then paint or any coating over that.
I did the Aluminum softop rails on the back tub on my YJ over a year ago that way and used the industrial rustoleom black and still looks new.

Powder coating is about THEE best way,that's why wheel manufacturers use that process over Aluminum wheels when painted,but that would be way out of the ball park for you're differential.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 09:14 AM   #891
erickpl
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Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
You want to see significant sand scratches and the high gloss removed. Basically you are breaking the clear coat off the surface and turning it to powder. It's ok if the surface looks uneven with slight variations in sheen. 60 grit paper works best.

You don't need to go crazy and make the surface dead flat. Just knock the high gloss off and scratch it all up.

Is that a good description? I can't think straight today. Hard drive crash at home last night got me thinking of recent work lost if I can't recover.
That describes it well enough to give me an idea of what my end goal is going to be before wiping it all down.

Painting and body work is NOT my specialty.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 09:31 AM   #892
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
I would think using an etching primer,then chassis saver and then monstsaliner would work.
The problem with aluminum is not really the monstaliner or chassis saver,it's hard to get anything to adhere well to it.
Aluminum creates a sort of film/dust after a few years of exposure.
The best way i've had any luck with any coating over Aluminum is a really GOOD sanding,then an etching primer,then paint or any coating over that.
I did the Aluminum softop rails on the back tub on my YJ over a year ago that way and used the industrial rustoleom black and still looks new.

Powder coating is about THEE best way,that's why wheel manufacturers use that process over Aluminum wheels when painted,but that would be way out of the ball park for you're differential.
Aluminum is hard to stick to even if it is new. Yes, etch primer will work or an automotive epoxy primer.
Caution: We have found that some of the newer single part (1K) etch primers are not as good as the 2 part products
and we have seen adhesion failures.
We think is is because there is less phosphoric acid in the 1K products. The particular product that failed was SEM 1K etch primer.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 10:47 AM   #893
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Originally Posted by Camilo98 View Post
Any update on this? still no have no shipping info or charged to my card
UPS tracking says you will receive this today. It was shipped on Monday 3/29 and your card was charged on Friday 3/26. My cc payment status report says "completed". Please check that and let me know. Amt was $113.90 from Magnet Paint

Regards
MagnetMan
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Unread 04-05-2010, 12:20 PM   #894
BmrSnr
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Hey Magnetman hope your Easter was good. I just check the web site and noticed that your are creating a base to be tinted for sale. Is that still the plan, or have you shifted to selling pre-mixed colors?

Thanks John
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Unread 04-05-2010, 04:21 PM   #895
Ironworker709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Aluminum is hard to stick to even if it is new. Yes, etch primer will work or an automotive epoxy primer.
Caution: We have found that some of the newer single part (1K) etch primers are not as good as the 2 part products
and we have seen adhesion failures.
We think is is because there is less phosphoric acid in the 1K products. The particular product that failed was SEM 1K etch primer.
I've used several of the both..1k and 2k etching primers and had success with both,and failure with both.
I found the biggest problem is not prepping enough,...sanding lightly and then cleaning with vinegar/water,then painting never worked really well.
Have seen the etching primer walk away in spots,then resanded ALOT more and re coated with no problems.
The biggest problem is people trying to coat weather beatin Aluminum,you have to get further down into fresh Aluminum for a good acid bond...been there..done that..lol

Aluminum is a non ferous metal,making it very hard to bond to.

If you want real GOOD advice for aluminum,check out a few Boat forums,they regularly deal with aluminum boats and paint them with great success.
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Unread 04-05-2010, 07:10 PM   #896
Camilo98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
UPS tracking says you will receive this today. It was shipped on Monday 3/29 and your card was charged on Friday 3/26. My cc payment status report says "completed". Please check that and let me know. Amt was $113.90 from Magnet Paint

Regards
MagnetMan
Just got it when I got home, thank you! I never got a tracking # on my email so thats why I was asking before.
All good now
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Unread 04-06-2010, 05:53 AM   #897
magnetman
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Originally Posted by BmrSnr View Post
Hey Magnetman hope your Easter was good. I just check the web site and noticed that your are creating a base to be tinted for sale. Is that still the plan, or have you shifted to selling pre-mixed colors?

Thanks John
The weekend was great. Hope you enjoyed yours as well!

The tintable base is needed for us to make any colors and is also needed for our dealers to tint for their customers. We still intend to offer some pre-tinted colors. The base is getting some final adjustments before we proceed.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 06:01 AM   #898
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
I've used several of the both..1k and 2k etching primers and had success with both,and failure with both.
I found the biggest problem is not prepping enough,...sanding lightly and then cleaning with vinegar/water,then painting never worked really well.
Have seen the etching primer walk away in spots,then resanded ALOT more and re coated with no problems.
The biggest problem is people trying to coat weather beatin Aluminum,you have to get further down into fresh Aluminum for a good acid bond...been there..done that..lol

Aluminum is a non ferous metal,making it very hard to bond to.

If you want real GOOD advice for aluminum,check out a few Boat forums,they regularly deal with aluminum boats and paint them with great success.
That's right on the money. Vinyl wash primers usually offer the best success and these are what we consider 2K etch primers. Removal of oxidation from aluminum is critical before coating.

This link spells it out pretty well.
Painting Aluminum Aircraft, Outboard Motors, Decks, Houses, Etc.
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Unread 04-06-2010, 07:02 AM   #899
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Signitures not showing

Are signitures not showing up for anyone else?
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Unread 04-06-2010, 12:57 PM   #900
erickpl
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Sigs can be turned on and off in your profile.

Got my package yesterday packed very nicely!!! Small dent in the chassis saver can but no leaks!

Picked up sponge brushes, 60 grit paper and block, and a breather mask for paint fumes.
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