Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 574 - JeepForum.com

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post #8596 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 09:06 AM
Jims-87YJ
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I think I will reduce it with a little MEK substitute, as that was all I could find. Getting ready to head out there in about 30 mins, I'll post pics later this afternoon.


1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/
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post #8597 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims-87YJ View Post
I think I will reduce it with a little MEK substitute, as that was all I could find. Getting ready to head out there in about 30 mins, I'll post pics later this afternoon.
You only need 1 hour max between coats when spraying. In todays heat with 75+ humidity it can drop to 30 mins between coats.

If you have trouble spraying 2nd coat because stuff has thickened just add a few more oz of MEK sub to remaining material and re-power mix
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post #8598 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 01:27 PM
Jims-87YJ
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Anyone... Should I have to do the MEK wipe down if I have a freshly epoxy primered surface?

1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/
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post #8599 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims-87YJ View Post
Anyone... Should I have to do the MEK wipe down if I have a freshly epoxy primered surface?
Answered your PM with same

MEK wipe is required on scuffed paint to remove dust and oils from touching surface

Primer normally does not need to be solvent cleaned unless you scuffed it and need to remove dust

Additionally: Many epoxy primers also have a recoat window (always in the directions) where if the primer is cured past the window, they recommend scuffing to help adhesion of coating going over the primer.
Every products is different and the window can be betw 2 - 7 days so check instructions for guidelines
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post #8600 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 05:42 PM
ThaKmFb
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Spraying VS. Rolling

I was wondering if anybody had a comparison picture between spraying and rolling the monstalina? Is spraying a lot faster?
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post #8601 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 06:24 PM
Copperhead89
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n/m

My YJ/CJ V8 Magnum Build: http://jeepforum.com/forum/f22/magnum-force-mopar-mans-build-1412306/
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post #8602 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 06:34 PM
BAMFpullin719
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThaKmFb View Post
I was wondering if anybody had a comparison picture between spraying and rolling the monstalina? Is spraying a lot faster?
check monstaliner.com for some videos. spraying is much faster to apply but you spend more time masking/taping. you wanna tape off really well because the overspray on this stuff will go 6 feet if your not careful. my creepers, stools a few tools now have a light sprinkle of monsta haha

"4 low, 2nd gear, skinny peddle on the right"
bought not built, broke, then rebuilt
you thought you had rust? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/w...rrior-1269820/
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post #8603 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 06:53 PM
Jims-87YJ
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Well I finished... The mixture in the 2 gallon pal that was left over to start cutting in started to thicken up pretty quick and I started to get concerned, but once I went to spraying all was well. The spraying with the economy Gun went on very well and I was very pleased.






There are probably a very few spots I may have missed in above the front most body mounts was very hard to get to with both a brush and / or the spray, and the two areas behind the rear tail-lights was difficult. Also under some of the cross members, but I tried to hit these areas with the brush and get them at lest coated I may not have got the texture but no one will ever see those areas.

Just an after thought, would it be possible to but a length of rubber hose on the end of the schultz gun to make it easier to get these hard to reach spots???

Hope you can see the detail in the pictures, I am very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks Monstaliner!!!

1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/
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post #8604 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 07:03 PM
Copperhead89
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Great job!!
My tub is almost ready for the Mosta-Liner, and I was considering the gray for both sides. Thanks to your pics, I don't have to imagine what the finished product will look like.
What air pressure worked best for you? ow many coats did you apply, and how much product did you actually use for the bottom?

My YJ/CJ V8 Magnum Build: http://jeepforum.com/forum/f22/magnum-force-mopar-mans-build-1412306/
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post #8605 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Looks great. Did you spray the whole gallon for the 2 coats?

They do make shutz guns with tubes that attach to the tip. We don't sell these. They are commonly used to reach inside doors and behind panels where the gun won't fit

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jims-87YJ View Post
Well I finished... The mixture in the 2 gallon pal that was left over to start cutting in started to thicken up pretty quick and I started to get concerned, but once I went to spraying all was well. The spraying with the economy Gun went on very well and I was very pleased.






There are probably a very few spots I may have missed in above the front most body mounts was very hard to get to with both a brush and / or the spray, and the two areas behind the rear tail-lights was difficult. Also under some of the cross members, but I tried to hit these areas with the brush and get them at lest coated I may not have got the texture but no one will ever see those areas.

Just an after thought, would it be possible to but a length of rubber hose on the end of the schultz gun to make it easier to get these hard to reach spots???

Hope you can see the detail in the pictures, I am very pleased with how it turned out. Thanks Monstaliner!!!
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post #8606 of 13185 Old 08-05-2012, 07:30 PM
Jims-87YJ
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I think I ended up with about 80psi, I did 2+ coats, and still had a little (1"+) left in the bottom of the 1 gal can. If at all possible have a helper to get to the areas that are going to be hard to reach with the gun, Unless my late idea will work to put a 4-6" piece of hose on the end of the gun to get to those spots!
If I had them prepped I should have did the back side of the grill and fenders, I might have had enough for at least 1 coat???
Oh well i'll just have to what for Quarts to be available

1987 YJ, 258, Weber 32/36, HEI, Custom Sound bar, Hardtop/Sun-rider/bikini tops, 2" Lift, 1/2" Boomerangs, 1" Body & MM Lift. 32x11.5x15 Copper STT's on Black Rock 950 Lobos w/4" backspacing, Still need Front Bumper and Seats.

My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/m...hread-1137667/
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post #8607 of 13185 Old 08-06-2012, 08:01 AM
RedlegWJ
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Ok, nuther boat question. I have the old plywood floor ripped up and old foam removed. Been cleaning with acetone. Some staining to the aluminum at a few of the seems from water wanting to start seeping. I would like to coat with some chassis saver I already have and seal it up. I was hoping to avoid extra work scuffing all the bare aluminum and risk heating it up. Rust -oleum makes a brush on primer for bare aluminum, I suspect to be self etching, because it doesn't say to scuff for prep. It DOES say it is ACRYLIC, it is LATEX and it says it also cures with moisture. Think this would be safe with chassis saver or should I avoid it? If not certain, I'll test it, but would like to hear some scientific babble for long term in case an issue isn't readily evident when I try it out.

Don

Gray 99 Laredo with '04 driveline wap. Tons of fun coming soon. Steel bumpers. 5 1/2" IRO coils, IRO adj. track bar. Rancho RS9000 Addco rear sway. 2"x.250" DOM long arms with johny joints. Custom A-arm with ball joint delete (J-joint). JK Moab wheels/ 33x 12.5 x 17 Cooper SST. Bushwacker Flares.
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post #8608 of 13185 Old 08-06-2012, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Chassis Saver does NOT stick to aluminum. You will be best with a 2K epoxy primer on this surface

Post a link to the Rustoleum product you are referring to



Quote:
Originally Posted by RedlegWJ View Post
Ok, nuther boat question. I have the old plywood floor ripped up and old foam removed. Been cleaning with acetone. Some staining to the aluminum at a few of the seems from water wanting to start seeping. I would like to coat with some chassis saver I already have and seal it up. I was hoping to avoid extra work scuffing all the bare aluminum and risk heating it up. Rust -oleum makes a brush on primer for bare aluminum, I suspect to be self etching, because it doesn't say to scuff for prep. It DOES say it is ACRYLIC, it is LATEX and it says it also cures with moisture. Think this would be safe with chassis saver or should I avoid it? If not certain, I'll test it, but would like to hear some scientific babble for long term in case an issue isn't readily evident when I try it out.

Don
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post #8609 of 13185 Old 08-06-2012, 08:16 AM
RedlegWJ
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This stuff Eric. Appreciate you getting back so quick. I'm air sprayer challenged right now. If this doen't work, I'd be open to a another suggestion of a possible, brushable primer. This area will get hidden by a new floor. ALso, I'm now leaning towards carpet over the plywood, but remember you guys showing wood being coated with bedliner and it soaking in deep. Would the chassis saver act the same on wood? I think it would be easier to touch up and deal with after drilling, rather than dealing with a coating of glass.

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=43

Gray 99 Laredo with '04 driveline wap. Tons of fun coming soon. Steel bumpers. 5 1/2" IRO coils, IRO adj. track bar. Rancho RS9000 Addco rear sway. 2"x.250" DOM long arms with johny joints. Custom A-arm with ball joint delete (J-joint). JK Moab wheels/ 33x 12.5 x 17 Cooper SST. Bushwacker Flares.
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post #8610 of 13185 Old 08-06-2012, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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I'm not crazy about water base products in potentially wet environments over long term

2K epoxy primer can be brushed/rolled and is completely water resistant

CS used to seal wood is unbelivable. It will soak into the wood and turn it to stone almost and no water will get in.

I gotta run. Be back later to discuss this

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedlegWJ View Post
This stuff Eric. Appreciate you getting back so quick. I'm air sprayer challenged right now. If this doen't work, I'd be open to a another suggestion of a possible, brushable primer. This area will get hidden by a new floor. ALso, I'm now leaning towards carpet over the plywood, but remember you guys showing wood being coated with bedliner and it soaking in deep. Would the chassis saver act the same on wood? I think it would be easier to touch up and deal with after drilling, rather than dealing with a coating of glass.

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=43
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bed liner , Bedliner , diy , herc , herculiner , liner , monstaliner , POR 15 , protection , raptor , rust , upol , vendor

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