Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 406 - JeepForum.com

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post #6076 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
magnetman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepers29 View Post
The first was in July, the spice was about 2 -3 weeks ago. Love the results so far. I rolled the black on bumper , hood vent and sliders. Will be spraying the spice when you can get me directions for spraying.
Just finished the directions this morning for The Blacksmith. Will post here shortly

So wait, the Spice kit you just got had no stickers???

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post #6077 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 07:42 AM
jeepers29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Just finished the directions this morning for The Blacksmith. Will post here shortly

So wait, the Spice kit you just got had no stickers???
Nope, I figured it would but Did not get one. The spray gun and chassis saver was all in the one box, but no sticker. Thanks for the help.
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post #6078 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jeepers29 View Post
Nope, I figured it would but Did not get one. The spray gun and chassis saver was all in the one box, but no sticker. Thanks for the help.
#@&*$%^@

Which spray gun did you get?
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post #6079 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
#@&*$%^@

Which spray gun did you get?
The more expensive one per your recommendation. The gun package was opened, but I figured it was so everything could fit in the box.
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post #6080 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepers29 View Post
Nope, I figured it would but Did not get one. The spray gun and chassis saver was all in the one box, but no sticker. Thanks for the help.
OK I looked you up and fig out why no stickers. You got a coating only kit w/no tools and the stickers always go in the tool bag.
The warehouse has been forgetting the stickers in these kits. I will mail you.

Here's the directions for the Walcom gun

Spraying Tintable Monstaliner + Monstashades with the Walcom Shutz Gun
------------------------------------------------------------------------
IMPORTANT
1) Before you start: You must have a new or clean 2 gallon plastic bucket. Monstashades color and the catalyst will not all fit into the tintable gallon can.
2) The siphon tube supplied with the Walcom gun is a bit too long when the quart can is screwed up under the gun. Carefully cut a small piece off the end
of the tube at a 45 degree angle. Test fit the tube before cutting to make sure you do not cut it too short. 3/8 to 1/2" should be enough to remove.
The angled cut end goes towards the bottom of the can.
3) The Walcom gun has a nice tip adustment. Start spraying with the tip screwed all the way in and back it out no more than 1/2 way.

Hand shake gallon of tintable for 5 seconds. Hand shake can of Monstashades color concentrate for 5 seconds. Open both cans and dump entire
contents of color concentrate into gallon. Add 2 tablespoons of MEK or Acetone TO THE EMPTY COLOR CONCENTRATE CAN and reseal the can. Shake
vigorously for 5 seconds and dump wash solvent into tintable gallon. NO FURTHER REDUCER IS NEEDED TO SPRAY TINTABLE MONSTALINER.

Power mix tintable gallon with color at medium speed for 2 minutes. Dump entire contents of color mixture into your 2 gallon bucket. Scrape sides and bottom
of can with paint paddle to get as much out as possible. Shake Monstaliner Catalyst for 5 seconds and pour entire contents into bucket with tinted mixture.
Power mix bucket at medium speed for 1 minute and stop. Scrape out remaining catalyst into bucket and continue power mixing for an additional 3 - 4 minutes.
Note: While mixing, stop periodically to scrape sides and bottom of bucket with paint mixing stick.

Fill your quart Shutz can with the mixture and put the cap on the can. Pour the remaining tinted/catalyzed mixture back into the original gallon paint can and sit the lid on it.

Attach the full Shutz can to the gun and spray a test spot at 50 - 60 PSI. For the 1st coat, spray evenly but do not try to achieve full coverage or you could
cause drips/runs. Cover all surfaces so you still see some of the underlying paint showing through. Refill Shutz can as needed. Reseal the gallon Monstaliner
can after you fill the Shutz can each time. Spraying inside a jeep tub you should only need to fill the gun 1 more time after initial fill.

When done with 1st coat, pour any remaining material from gun back into the gallon can. Scrape down the sides of the can so little or no coating clings to
the sides. Pour 2 - 3 ounces of MEK or Acetone INTO THE EMPTY SHUTZ CAN, cap the can and shake vigorously to wash the can. Pour this solvent gently over
the surface as a "float" over remaining material in gallon to prevent it from thickening at the surface. When you open the can to start your 2nd coat just mix in the floating solvent.

Wait 1 hour before starting the 2nd coat. At this point, the Monstaliner mixture will have thickened some and now is when you are going to get some
awesome texture. Refill the gun and go. If the material is not spraying enough just up the pressure. You can go to the max, 80 to 100 PSI.

Note: If you do not rinse the Shutz can between coats it's possible that some material will thicken inside the can and cause chunks to blow out on the 2nd coat.
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post #6081 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 08:08 AM
jeepers29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
OK I looked you up and fig out why no stickers. You got a coating only kit w/no tools and the stickers always go in the tool bag.
The warehouse has been forgetting the stickers in these kits. I will mail you.

Here's the directions for the Walcom gun

Spraying Tintable Monstaliner + Monstashades with the Walcom Shutz Gun
------------------------------------------------------------------------
IMPORTANT
1) Before you start: You must have a new or clean 2 gallon plastic bucket. Monstashades color and the catalyst will not all fit into the tintable gallon can.
2) The siphon tube supplied with the Walcom gun is a bit too long when the quart can is screwed up under the gun. Carefully cut a small piece off the end
of the tube at a 45 degree angle. Test fit the tube before cutting to make sure you do not cut it too short. 3/8 to 1/2" should be enough to remove.
The angled cut end goes towards the bottom of the can.
3) The Walcom gun has a nice tip adustment. Start spraying with the tip screwed all the way in and back it out no more than 1/2 way.

Hand shake gallon of tintable for 5 seconds. Hand shake can of Monstashades color concentrate for 5 seconds. Open both cans and dump entire
contents of color concentrate into gallon. Add 2 tablespoons of MEK or Acetone TO THE EMPTY COLOR CONCENTRATE CAN and reseal the can. Shake
vigorously for 5 seconds and dump wash solvent into tintable gallon. NO FURTHER REDUCER IS NEEDED TO SPRAY TINTABLE MONSTALINER.

Power mix tintable gallon with color at medium speed for 2 minutes. Dump entire contents of color mixture into your 2 gallon bucket. Scrape sides and bottom
of can with paint paddle to get as much out as possible. Shake Monstaliner Catalyst for 5 seconds and pour entire contents into bucket with tinted mixture.
Power mix bucket at medium speed for 1 minute and stop. Scrape out remaining catalyst into bucket and continue power mixing for an additional 3 - 4 minutes.
Note: While mixing, stop periodically to scrape sides and bottom of bucket with paint mixing stick.

Fill your quart Shutz can with the mixture and put the cap on the can. Pour the remaining tinted/catalyzed mixture back into the original gallon paint can and sit the lid on it.

Attach the full Shutz can to the gun and spray a test spot at 50 - 60 PSI. For the 1st coat, spray evenly but do not try to achieve full coverage or you could
cause drips/runs. Cover all surfaces so you still see some of the underlying paint showing through. Refill Shutz can as needed. Reseal the gallon Monstaliner
can after you fill the Shutz can each time. Spraying inside a jeep tub you should only need to fill the gun 1 more time after initial fill.

When done with 1st coat, pour any remaining material from gun back into the gallon can. Scrape down the sides of the can so little or no coating clings to
the sides. Pour 2 - 3 ounces of MEK or Acetone INTO THE EMPTY SHUTZ CAN, cap the can and shake vigorously to wash the can. Pour this solvent gently over
the surface as a "float" over remaining material in gallon to prevent it from thickening at the surface. When you open the can to start your 2nd coat just mix in the floating solvent.

Wait 1 hour before starting the 2nd coat. At this point, the Monstaliner mixture will have thickened some and now is when you are going to get some
awesome texture. Refill the gun and go. If the material is not spraying enough just up the pressure. You can go to the max, 80 to 100 PSI.

Note: If you do not rinse the Shutz can between coats it's possible that some material will thicken inside the can and cause chunks to blow out on the 2nd coat.
Thanks Magnetman, Just printed the instructions and will post pics when done. I appreciate all the help. Wish all companies had the customer service that you give to the jeep community. Cheers, Joel.

PS looking forward to the stickers.
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post #6082 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
good suggestions, thanks
Thinking of that color myself. Also, any possibility of making a seperate version of ML with the consistancy of the CS? Would like the color and UV protection without texture. I know... just use paint... but I would like the durability.

Gray 99 Laredo with '04 driveline wap. Tons of fun coming soon. Steel bumpers. 5 1/2" IRO coils, IRO adj. track bar. Rancho RS9000 Addco rear sway. 2"x.250" DOM long arms with johny joints. Custom A-arm with ball joint delete (J-joint). JK Moab wheels/ 33x 12.5 x 17 Cooper SST. Bushwacker Flares.
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post #6083 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedlegWJ View Post
Thinking of that color myself. Also, any possibility of making a seperate version of ML with the consistancy of the CS? Would like the color and UV protection without texture. I know... just use paint... but I would like the durability.
If Monstaliner was formulated to have the consistency of paint it would lose durability. First off because you could not build film thickness and you would need 8 coats to create a thicker barrier. Would get way expensive

Explain what you are thinking in more detail. I'm always looking for new ideas.
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post #6084 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 01:13 PM
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Requesting a little advice on my current Monstaliner project... I can't help but feel like I've been scuffing and scuffing to no avail. I guess I'm not really sure what "ready" looks like, so i was hoping someone can give an opinion based off extremely low quality iPhone pictures. I began wiping down with the MEK and don't really notice much of a difference either, maybe I'm not using it liberally enough? Admittedly I'm no expert in this kinda stuff but at the same time it's a DIY project.

So my question(s) is/are:

A) based off the photos (post MEK) would this surface be considered prepped?

B) if not, do I need more scuffing or more MEK

C) can anyone describe what I should look for to know when the surface is "ready"

I decided its time I stopped and asked for advice. Certain areas I've sanded down more than I wanted. You can tell in the photos where the MEK is lifting what was once where the silicone heat/sound deadener was.. don't really get the same effect with the paint though.

Any help will be OVERLY appreciated. I've been dragging this project along for too long.

Thanks
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post #6085 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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You're doing it correct. Scuffing should dull the pant, make light visible very fine scratches in the surface and some fine dust. MEK does nothing but remove the dust, old wax and oils from your hands touching surface. After MEK it usually can look shiny again from diff angles but as long as it was whitish before MEk you've done it right.

Are you using only the scuff pad in the kit or sandpaper also?

and oils from
Quote:
Originally Posted by nufga View Post
Requesting a little advice on my current Monstaliner project... I can't help but feel like I've been scuffing and scuffing to no avail. I guess I'm not really sure what "ready" looks like, so i was hoping someone can give an opinion based off extremely low quality iPhone pictures. I began wiping down with the MEK and don't really notice much of a difference either, maybe I'm not using it liberally enough? Admittedly I'm no expert in this kinda stuff but at the same time it's a DIY project.

So my question(s) is/are:

A) based off the photos (post MEK) would this surface be considered prepped?

B) if not, do I need more scuffing or more MEK

C) can anyone describe what I should look for to know when the surface is "ready"

I decided its time I stopped and asked for advice. Certain areas I've sanded down more than I wanted. You can tell in the photos where the MEK is lifting what was once where the silicone heat/sound deadener was.. don't really get the same effect with the paint though.

Any help will be OVERLY appreciated. I've been dragging this project along for too long.

Thanks
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post #6086 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 02:00 PM Thread Starter
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this is scuffed, before MEK wipe. After MEK the whitishness looks much less
It can look very different depending on what color your paint is. Some colors contrast differently
Be glad you don't have white paint or you'd rip your hair out trying to see the difference
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post #6087 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 04:59 PM
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I'm having some prep issues too, this is my first time doing anything like this. My tub is covered in glue residue from an old after-markert carpet install. I'm having a hell of a time getting it all out. Some of the carpet even came off and is still stuck to the tub



I've tried a couple different glue removers from Home Depot, nothing works. Is it enough to sand it down or do I need to get this residue crud all the way off? Here's what it looks like after sanding it down w/ 80 grit (top right hasn't been sanded yet):



My last resort was gonna be paint stripper, but I wanted to get some advice before going there. Note I'm gonna CS the whole tub before doing the ML.
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post #6088 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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Do you know what kind of adhesive that is?

Is it hard or soft?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ThunderMakeR View Post
I'm having some prep issues too, this is my first time doing anything like this. My tub is covered in glue residue from an old after-markert carpet install. I'm having a hell of a time getting it all out. Some of the carpet even came off and is still stuck to the tub



I've tried a couple different glue removers from Home Depot, nothing works. Is it enough to sand it down or do I need to get this residue crud all the way off? Here's what it looks like after sanding it down w/ 80 grit (top right hasn't been sanded yet):



My last resort was gonna be paint stripper, but I wanted to get some advice before going there. Note I'm gonna CS the whole tub before doing the ML.
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post #6089 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 06:25 PM
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Don't really remember, I think it was just a general automotive adhesive, came in a spray can. Its pretty hard.
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post #6090 of 13255 Old 10-22-2011, 06:51 PM
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xeylol takes off almost everything sticky in my experience.

I'm gonna just post a few pics in this thread, the rest are in my floor thread alot of them.

med quartz grey sprayed with the shutz gun available from magnet paint











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