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Unread 10-30-2010, 10:17 PM   #2191
DINOCAVE
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Now here's the problem. I hung this fender up like a piece of meat to get the most coverage with the least amount of handling. This piece took forever because I was careful and it's really big.

But you can see a massive run. Again, I'm not blaming the product. I was way outside the manufacturer's directions. But I'm pretty sure the texture roller will cover this mistake. Plus, you'll only be able to see this part when the hood is up.

fender-1st-coat-mistake.jpg  
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Unread 10-30-2010, 10:20 PM   #2192
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And finally, just because I think it's cool... Here's a pic of my UCF aluminum skid. It's only going to get one thick coat.

So everything has one coat on it. It's late and I'm going to go to bed. I'll finish with the textured 2nd coat tomorrow.
ucf-1st-coat.jpg  
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Unread 10-30-2010, 10:23 PM   #2193
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It takes a lot of patience to tackle a job like you're involved in. When you test small areas, your focus is concentrated on that spot you are working on. When you try to expand what you have done and duplicate over large areas it becomes tough. You sound like you need a break.

Trust my past experience rolling. Go slow and go back to previously rolled areas first just to look them over and if needed, re-roll within 10 minutes (no more) to even out anything that needs it. For your next coat I would break the job down into smaller bites to make sure you get a few pieces at a time looking correct then move on to the next few pieces.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
Here is the top of one of the flares that was painted while it sat flat on a bench. It looks pretty good but YOU WILL NOT be able to get rid of some lines the brush leaves. It's not bad, but the color won't be uniform. The texture will, but not the color.
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Unread 10-30-2010, 10:27 PM   #2194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
It takes a lot of patience to tackle a job like you're involved in. When you test small areas, your focus is concentrated on that spot you are working on. When you try to expand what you have done and duplicate over large areas it becomes tough. You sound like you need a break.

Trust my past experience rolling. Go slow and go back to previously rolled areas first just to look them over and if needed, re-roll within 10 minutes (no more) to even out anything that needs it. For your next coat I would break the job down into smaller bites to make sure you get a few pieces at a time looking correct then move on to the next few pieces.
That's good advice. But how do I keep the liner from thickening too much over time? I seem to remember you could add a teeny bit of MEK to thin it back out.

Seriously. Going to bed. I'm gone.
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Unread 10-30-2010, 11:20 PM   #2195
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I know with the Chassis Saver you can use the S8 reducer they sell or MEK to thin it out.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 02:30 AM   #2196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
That's good advice. But how do I keep the liner from thickening too much over time? I seem to remember you could add a teeny bit of MEK to thin it back out.

Seriously. Going to bed. I'm gone.
Ever notice how a bottle of Heinz ketchup is thick until you shake it and it becomes thinner?

Well Monstaliner exhibits the same properties. It's called shear thinning or "pseudoplastic" viscosity.

High speed mixing or intense agitation makes Monstaliner get thinner.
Then as it sits without any mixing, it gets thicker again.

Much of the increase in viscosity you see with Monstaliner after it sits for the first few hours after adding catalyst
is this pseudoplastic property and only after more hours is the thickening a result of the pot life.

Since open air time also causes Monstaliner to thicken and skin over, it's very important to keep the lid on well to the mixed material when not using it.

Within the first few hours, if you re-mix with the drill mixer or shake vigorously for a few minutes, Monstaliner will thin down again.
As it sits longer, say 3, 4 or 5 hours, the viscosity continues to rise as a result of the catalyst.

At this point, you can (without detracting from it's strength or durability) add a small amount of MEK to knock back the viscosity.

The most important thing to check and be aware of before remixing or adding additional reducer to material that has been sitting
covered for a while is if there is a skin forming on the surface it should be removed to avoid mixing chunks into good coating.

A final note on adding more reducer: A small amount of MEK will reduce viscosity better than using the same amount of S8 Reducer
.
.

Last edited by magnetman; 10-31-2010 at 02:44 AM..
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Unread 10-31-2010, 06:35 AM   #2197
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Can I use sandpaper to knock down some of the drips and imperfections prior to the second coat, as long as I don't go all the way through? I'm not talking about sanding large portions, just a heavy drip here and there.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 09:05 AM   #2198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
Can I use sandpaper to knock down some of the drips and imperfections prior to the second coat, as long as I don't go all the way through? I'm not talking about sanding large portions, just a heavy drip here and there.
Yes, definitely. Be careful the coating may not sand well being so fresh
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Unread 10-31-2010, 09:20 AM   #2199
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awesome new promo. i had to read back through to find it.
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Last edited by mike_breaker_5; 10-31-2010 at 09:22 AM.. Reason: i posted b4 reading.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 09:43 AM   #2200
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JeepForum Monstaliner Exclusive - Halloween Day Killer Special

JeepForum Exclusive - Today Only Special



** Until Midnight Tonight ONLY, any Monstaliner kit purchased
will receive 1 EXTRA FREE QUART of Chassis Saver (2 FREE Qts Total)
+ Free Shipping on the entire order


Follow directions in Promo Details (see link below) for your first free quart of Chassis Saver and then
indicate in the order comments at time of checkout what color you want for your 2nd free quart.


This is the only place you will see this offer which dies promptly at midnight

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Unread 10-31-2010, 10:14 AM   #2201
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What is the shelf life of both the Monstaliner and the Chassis Saver?
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Unread 10-31-2010, 10:18 AM   #2202
DINOCAVE
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So I focused only on the "cosmetic" surfaces this morning. After this coat dries, I'll need to go back and hit the hidden areas with a second coat.
I am loving the texture roller! It has hidden so many of my mistakes. Plus, I think I actually prefer the texture to flat now that I see it on my parts.

Side note: I don't know the chemistry, but what would it take to make a "Glossy Black"? That stuff looks amazing when it's wet.

Anyway, I didn't use ANY reducer. I think this makes it much easier to control the drips. One quart was enough for all the cosmetic surfaces, so call it about 60% of the total surface area. And I had just enough left over to put a 2nd coat on the bottom of my skid. This afternoon should finish it out.

How long until I can safely flip everything? My garage is a balmy 70 degrees. The humidity outside (according to weather.com) is 50%. It's probably slightly less in my garage because of the space heater, but I do have a window open.
2nd-coat-fender.jpg  
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Unread 10-31-2010, 10:28 AM   #2203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
So I focused only on the "cosmetic" surfaces this morning. After this coat dries, I'll need to go back and hit the hidden areas with a second coat.
I am loving the texture roller! It has hidden so many of my mistakes. Plus, I think I actually prefer the texture to flat now that I see it on my parts.

Side note: I don't know the chemistry, but what would it take to make a "Glossy Black"? That stuff looks amazing when it's wet.

Anyway, I didn't use ANY reducer. I think this makes it much easier to control the drips. One quart was enough for all the cosmetic surfaces, so call it about 60% of the total surface area. And I had just enough left over to put a 2nd coat on the bottom of my skid. This afternoon should finish it out.

How long until I can safely flip everything? My garage is a balmy 70 degrees. The humidity outside (according to weather.com) is 50%. It's probably slightly less in my garage because of the space heater, but I do have a window open.
That looks great. I would wait a minimum of 6 hours to flip things but it could need more time. Must make sure the surface is no longer tacky at all and the coating must be firm so you don't stick to anything or put marks in the surface. Touch it with fingertips to check. Press to see if it dents. Just wait longer if it still feels too soft. DON'T RUSH!!!

Making this stuff glossy would involve a drastic change in the pigment/filler content.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 10:28 AM   #2204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deron1 View Post
What is the shelf life of both the Monstaliner and the Chassis Saver?
Stored at room temp, unopened cans are good for at least 1 year.
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Unread 10-31-2010, 01:44 PM   #2205
DINOCAVE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
That looks great. I would wait a minimum of 6 hours to flip things but it could need more time. Must make sure the surface is no longer tacky at all and the coating must be firm so you don't stick to anything or put marks in the surface. Touch it with fingertips to check. Press to see if it dents. Just wait longer if it still feels too soft. DON'T RUSH!!!

Making this stuff glossy would involve a drastic change in the pigment/filler content.
Well, I can still make a dent with my fingernail so I'll wait until after trick or treating to continue. If I start any later this afternoon, I won't have time to finish before we leave. So I'll be recoating some of the pieces right about the 24 hour mark. I assume that will be ok.

I also had one nasty F-Up on the side of the fender. I laid the liner down way to thick and got a nice seam along one of the outer edges. I just ripped it down (carefully) with a metal file. I'll make sure to recoat that area too. I blam poor lighting in my workshop. I'll have to talk to the landlord about upgrading the garage lighting.
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bed liner , Bedliner , diy , herc , herculiner , liner , monstaliner , POR 15 , protection , raptor , rust , upol , vendor

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