[magnetman]

Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7

Standard rollers should be fine. Paint is Paint, MEK is just a thinner/reducer so any paint brush, roller should be fine. I wouldn't go cheap though. Get good quality brushes and rollers because I've found out you get better results. Cheap brushes lose their bristles and cheap rollers have a tendency to leave behind the I guess "lint" from the material used to make them.

I plan on spraying mine. Also going to use their rollers to see what difference it makes on a test panel. I'm going to spray with different sized tips as well to see how it changes the texture and I'll post those up once I get the monstaliner.

Careful also with rollers. They should be phenolic (solvent resistant) core and not a white plastic core. The solvent in the Monstaliner will start to dissolve the plastic and the glue used to attach the outside to the core.

[FamillyCJ7]

Originally Posted by magnetman

Sample panel was rolled with blue foam. Note on spraying, you can't use a regular spray gun even with reducing.

Good to know, harbor freight has a cheap "shultz" gun I think it's if I remember correctly that is used to spray thicker textured stuff and undercoating I think? Would that be what I need to look at?

[FamillyCJ7]

Originally Posted by magnetman

Careful also with rollers. They should be phenolic (solvent resistant) core and not a white plastic core. The solvent in the Monstaliner will start to dissolve the plastic and the glue used to attach the outside to the core.

Good to know also!

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7

Good to know, harbor freight has a cheap "shultz" gun I think it's if I remember correctly that is used to spray thicker textured stuff and undercoating I think? Would that be what I need to look at?

Yes, please post the link to the gun you found.

[FamillyCJ7]

Texture Paint Spray Gun here is one I found on their site, I think I've seen a different one also while in the store.

Description of Central Pneumatic 66103
When applying more viscous material, such as decking surface for fireproofing and waterproofing, this texture paint spray gun will do the job. Three nozzles, 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16" and an operating range between 25 to 90 PSI facilitate a wide variety of applications. A large 1-1/2 gallon hopper means more time for coating and less down time for refilling. The spray gun body is finished in a durable powder coating.

• Three nozzle sizes: 3/16", 1/4" and 5/16"
• Large 1-1/2 gallon hopper
• Powder coated spray gun body for durability
• Operating pressure range: 25 – 90 PSI
• Set up and operating instructions included

Would that be something that would work?

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by FamillyCJ7

Texture Paint Spray Gun here is one I found on their site, I think I've seen a different one also while in the store.



Would that be something that would work?

I think the hopper gun like that would be an issue because you can't turn it on it's side without spilling. Although I like that for that price!

Can't stay online right now. I'll get back later with other recommendations/options

[FamillyCJ7]

Schutz Gun

Also found this for $15

[DINOCAVE]

I am so pissed off. I am having the worst run of luck trying to do anything with these fenders.

So... A couple of weeks ago when I was researching this project, I stopped by O'Reilly's to see if they had 2 part epoxy primer. The guy walked right to the shelf and said, "Yup, here it is. Each part comes in 1 quart cans. Plenty in stock." Great. See you in a couple of weeks.

Fast forward to today, after a 5 hour round trip in the car to take my wife to the airport, I roll in to O'Reilly's. I ask the desk monkey about the primer.
Me: Hi. I need some 2 part epoxy primer.
Monkey: Duh.
Me: Ya know. Primer. Direct to metal. Comes in two seperate 1qt cans. Should be on that shelf right there (long shelf behind the counter).
Monkey: Duh. The paint guy will be right back. Wanna wait for him?
Me: Sure.

5 minutes later
Me: Hi. I'd like some Direct to Metal 2 part epoxy primer. Should be in some 1 quart cans.
Paint Monkey: Duh.
Me: Should be right on that shelf someplace.
Paint Monkey: 2 part ya say. Hmmm, I got some DTM surfacer. (Now I have no idea what that is or if it would work, but he doesn't either)

So now I'm spending my time trying to find this stuff. NAPA guy has never even heard of it. Autozone guy knew exactly what it was but said he didn't carry it. But he got on the phone and called around to try to find it. Including trying to explain it to the O'Reilly's guy. No luck. (But guess which auto parts store I'll spend all my money at now).

So instead of primer today and Monstaliner tomorrow, I'll be tracking down primer tomorrow. But I can't primer tomorrow because I have to work late on Tuesday. So now, if I can find it, I'll have to primer on Wed and liner on Thur. And this is only for the test run to see if I like the texture before I buy the Monstaliner kit!

My plan was to run the test today/tomorrow to find out if I liked it. Then Monday afternoon I could try to find a vendor to express mail me a kit so I could finish coating these damn things next weekend and install them the weekend after. Isn't it funny how a delay of one day can set a project back by a week.

I have angered the Jeep gods and they are punishing me.

[DINOCAVE]

Is there any other primer that will work, that I can easily find? If so, please be specific.

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by CPT Jeep

Is there any other primer that will work, that I can easily find? If so, please be specific.

OK, I did some research for you

Go to Fields True Value Hardware on Old Route 66 in your zip code

Ask the sales person for XO-Rust metal primer or Rustoleum metal primer and buy the smallest can they sell. Could be a gray or a red oxide color primer, does not matter but it must be an oil or solvent base (no water base products)
You will know it is not water if it says flammable or combustible on the can usually bottom, front. If you tell them what you are doing they also may make another recommendation.
Note: these are 1 component primers but will work as long as you let them cure well

Prime your metal with 1 coat and let it dry for 48 to 72 hours and do your tests

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have an epoxy primer for you to use when you make a final decision for the fenders. I did not offer it now because we only have it packed in 2 gallon kits but I plan to break some into smaller cans to have available for sale.

[DINOCAVE]

Originally Posted by magnetman

OK, I did some research for you

Go to Fields True Value Hardware on Old Route 66 in your zip code

Ask the sales person for XO-Rust metal primer or Rustoleum metal primer and buy the smallest can they sell. Could be a gray or a red oxide color primer, does not matter but it must be an oil or solvent base (no water base products)
You will know it is not water if it says flammable or combustible on the can usually bottom, front. If you tell them what you are doing they also may make another recommendation.
Note: these are 1 component primers but will work as long as you let them cure well

Prime your metal with 1 coat and let it dry for 48 to 72 hours and do your tests

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have an epoxy primer for you to use when you make a final decision for the fenders. I did not offer it now because we only have it packed in 2 gallon kits but I plan to break some into smaller cans to have available for sale.

I know exactly where that is. I went by there today but they were closed. Mostly Farm Supply stuff. Huge signs out front using plyboard with spraypaint advertising dog food. I love it!

[DINOCAVE]

BTW, when I told you that if I could make this stuff work, anyone could... I was serious! If these fenders were my johnson, I couldn't get them coated in a whorehouse!

[magnetman]

Originally Posted by CPT Jeep

I know exactly where that is. I went by there today but they were closed. Mostly Farm Supply stuff. Huge signs out front using plyboard with spraypaint advertising dog food. I love it!

Just to make certain, you do not want to use any spray bomb primer. Must be from a can.

[FamillyCJ7]

My frame is scheduled for sandblasting Saturday morning, which means I'll finally get the whole frame done with the Chassis Coat! Can't wait. Then I'll be waiting for the Red and Black Monstaliner so I can get the body done. Autozone here sells to two part duplicolor primer. I think they only sell it in gallons though.

[DINOCAVE]

Originally Posted by magnetman

OK, I did some research for you

Go to Fields True Value Hardware on Old Route 66 in your zip code

Ask the sales person for XO-Rust metal primer or Rustoleum metal primer and buy the smallest can they sell. Could be a gray or a red oxide color primer, does not matter but it must be an oil or solvent base (no water base products)
You will know it is not water if it says flammable or combustible on the can usually bottom, front. If you tell them what you are doing they also may make another recommendation.
Note: these are 1 component primers but will work as long as you let them cure well

Prime your metal with 1 coat and let it dry for 48 to 72 hours and do your tests

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I have an epoxy primer for you to use when you make a final decision for the fenders. I did not offer it now because we only have it packed in 2 gallon kits but I plan to break some into smaller cans to have available for sale.

Persistence is the word of the day.

True Value was out. So I played a hunch and went back to O'Reillys and found a manager. He was clueless too but I went back to the shelf myself. I found Nason Ful-Poxy Epoxy Metal Primer 491-16 in a quart can. I read the instructions and it said it needed 483-19 Catalyst, which they only had by the gallon. The next town over (not far) has the catalyst in a quart can, so I'm on my way. A few more questions.

-The can doesn't say DTM or Direct To Metal. The instructions say "May be used over steel, aluminum, fiberglass, and sanded finish coats." I assume it is DTM. If not, I can always take it back. I won't crack the cans until I hear back.

-Does humidity matter when applying this primer? It just started to rain outside. (Already stopped)

-Directions state that I can topcoat within 2 hours. I know you recommended I wait 24 hours. If I can topcoat after 2 hours, I can finish this project today because I can let the primer cure about 4-5 hours while I take my daughter to gymnastics, get dinner, etc. Then hit liner late tonight. Will that work or should I wait? My gut tells me it won't work because the humidity is high and the primer will be thicker than if I spray because I will be painting it on.