Introducing MONSTALINERô UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - Page 134 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 09-26-2010, 10:43 AM   #1996
DINOCAVE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
I just read pages 50ish to 70ish. Wow! I wish I had time to read it all. I strarted reading more about this stuff because, as some may know, I'm having a tough time painting my Metalcloak fenders. I'm sold, I just need some guidance.

I'm looking for a true start to finish DIY system for any and all parts I order. Some will need thick coats, some thin, some textured, some smoothish. So here are some of the things I need guidance on, and they are questions I think others would benefit from. If I can get this right, I will be ordering a lot of this stuff over time.

1. How do I get the thinnest smoothest coating? I want to be able to build it up slowly since my fenders have some tight tolerances. Magnetman answered a pm and said it could be reduced 10% with S8 reducer. But what is the BEST technique for thin and smooth.
2. If I want to spray it, can I use the Preval DIY kit? The are some nooks and crannies I don't think I could get a brush into and still have a thin uniform finish.
3. Bare metal has to have an epoxy primer first. What is the best prep for bare metal in order to lay down epoxy primer? Can I spray epoxy primer with the Preval kit?
Okay, I'm up through page 21. It seems spraying doesn't give an advantage as far as texture of the final product, just thickness. Going to go back to digging in this thread to see if anyone has tried different types of rollers...

edit to add: Quick question-Can you open the gallon can and the pour a small amount out in another bottle and add a small amount of the catalyst, then close up the original cans without starting the hardening process? Will the exposure to air cause any kind of reaction to the original cans? I want to experiment with different application methods before commiting to putting it on my fenders. My plan right now is to go to Orscheln and buy a sheet of steel to experiment with.

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Unread 09-26-2010, 11:03 AM   #1997
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Srhmn8r View Post
any update?s I was hoping that by some chance you'd have some colors by today since this is the last day of the promo, right?
I'm sure the colors will have their own promo. He promised a promo to those of us who have waited for the colors.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 12:10 PM   #1998
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Actually, is there a smooth coat that doesn't have the rough look? Obviously not gloss smooth but something less gritty would probably sell me if it's just as durable
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Unread 09-26-2010, 01:18 PM   #1999
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Originally Posted by ocTJ View Post
Actually, is there a smooth coat that doesn't have the rough look? Obviously not gloss smooth but something less gritty would probably sell me if it's just as durable
I'm pretty sure the texture is created almost 100% by the roller. So you could use a brush and smooth roller to apply it and get a thick coat of fairly smooth paint. I might not have good pictures of where I used the brush and couldn't fit the roller, but in those little spots, it's smooth.

But even with the full texture, it's not "gritty" like Herculiner is.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 02:04 PM   #2000
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Yep, even with full texture is not gritty or scratchy. The roller that I used to compliment the kit's rollers left a pretty smooth texture. It was some glue roller or something from home depot. It was adhesive solvent resistant and cost just a couple of dollars.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 04:34 PM   #2001
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I finally got to break open my monstaliner and figured I'd start with my hardtop. I plan on doing the tub later. I had a little extra so I also did the grill. It definitely took the most time doing the prep work. But then again, it's well worth the effort. I was a little worried with the 6-10 hour shelf life and waiting between coats, but it was fine. I did notice three bubbles, but I actually saw them pop up and popped them and the second coat took care of that...not sure what caused it though. It was a good day, low humidity and not too hot. I can tell you why they don't recommend doing it outdoors....After the first coat, a breeze came through...I looked up and I had styrofoam noodles all over my hatch! lol.

I'm very happy overall. I could have done a little better job and still have a few edges to touch up, but I am definitely a satisfied customer. Here's the album:

Monsta pictures by monkeyhouserodge - Photobucket

Here's a few pics:













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Unread 09-26-2010, 06:20 PM   #2002
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Nice to see a hard top job. That was in the back of my mind as a project if everything works out well.

Can you fill us in on the prep?
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Unread 09-26-2010, 06:20 PM   #2003
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That totally refreshed your top. When you get a chance, report back on how the hard top is in terms of sound and possibly insulation. It should deaden that hollow cave sound that comes from them.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 06:34 PM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ocTJ View Post
Actually, is there a smooth coat that doesn't have the rough look? Obviously not gloss smooth but something less gritty would probably sell me if it's just as durable
If you want Monstaliner smoother you just need to thin it down approx 10% with our S8 Reducer and then roll it with a short hair mohair type roller.

Then, if you take a wide 3" to 4" black polyester paint brush you can smooth it even further by gently brushing with with the brush that has been dipped into the coating first (do not just start brushing with dry brush)

SEE THESE PHOTOS
MONSTALINERô - Obtaining a Smooth Finish
.
.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 06:54 PM   #2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
I just read pages 50ish to 70ish. Wow! I wish I had time to read it all. I strarted reading more about this stuff because, as some may know, I'm having a tough time painting my Metalcloak fenders. I'm sold, I just need some guidance.

I'm looking for a true start to finish DIY system for any and all parts I order. Some will need thick coats, some thin, some textured, some smoothish. So here are some of the things I need guidance on, and they are questions I think others would benefit from. If I can get this right, I will be ordering a lot of this stuff over time.

1. How do I get the thinnest smoothest coating? I want to be able to build it up slowly since my fenders have some tight tolerances. Magnetman answered a pm and said it could be reduced 10% with S8 reducer. But what is the BEST technique for thin and smooth.
2. If I want to spray it, can I use the Preval DIY kit? The are some nooks and crannies I don't think I could get a brush into and still have a thin uniform finish.
3. Bare metal has to have an epoxy primer first. What is the best prep for bare metal in order to lay down epoxy primer? Can I spray epoxy primer with the Preval kit?
See this link in my last post for demo photos on a smooth finish.
MONSTALINERô - Obtaining a Smooth Finish

The Preval sprayer will NOT work for Monstaliner as the viscosity is still WAY too heavy. Anything you want to spray through a Preval must be almost like water.

You can probably spray the epoxy primer with the Preval but you will need to thin it some and I'm not sure if the tip will not clog up fast on you.

JUST BRUSH THE PRIMER ON

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT INFO FOR ALL: While automotive paint and primers are not traditionally applied with anything other than spray,
a primer like a 2 part epoxy primer can be brushed with absolutely no problems when you plan to put Monstaliner over it.

CPT Jeep: You mentioned thet these fenders were not yet installed on the jeep. How deep are these nooks and crannies?

Do you have a photo to post?
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Unread 09-26-2010, 07:38 PM   #2006
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I picked up on this thread while restoring an old military type tow behind jeep trailer. After restoring the entire trailer less the interior of the steel tub, I had some decisions to make. I decided the trailer restoration was worthy of more than slapping on any old bedliner. After researching out the popular roll on bedliners, I found that all of them have had plenty of praise and criticism. So I decided on getting a Line-X quote. At $300 for a straightforward 4x6 steel trailer tub, I hit the net again looking for a less costly solution.

Voila - this thread and Monstaliner! Am I glad I found you! After a bit of reading here, I purchased the one gallon kit. I ordered it Tuesday night and it arrived Friday evening - nice. Saturday I started in with the silver chassis saver - this stuff is nasty good. Wish I knew about the chassis saver sooner, the stuff is a killer prime coat, would have used it under the trailer had I known about it sooner. Coated the tub with 2 coats with 3 hours in between. Let dry overnight and started in with the Monstaliner today - Sunday.

Well, let me tell you, I was even more impressed with the Monstaliner product.

A couple of things I did different and glad I did. Assuming I was not going to need the full gallon for the trailer tub, I bought two (2) each of the following: two quart, one quart, and one pint plastic paint containers with measurement lines and lids. I also bought a set of cheap kitchen spatulas. Everything at the local hardware store for about $10. I divided up the gallon exactly even into the two 2 quart containers and the catalyst exactly even into the pint containers. MIXED THE MONSTLINER FIRST WITHOUT THE CATALYST BEFORE DIVIDING IT OUT.

First coat - Mixed the catalyst into the first plastic 2 quart container. Applied coat as per instructions. Had about 1-2 inches left from the first half gallon - re-covered the container for second coat.

Second coat - 3 1/2 hours later - went to use up the 1-2 inches of the first mix and found it had a significant skin on top and had also thickened significantly. I added a little less than 10% MEK and remixed it thoroughly assuming it would all blend back together - no go! I ended up rolling on some chunky liner. I quickly stopped the process, abandoned the first batch and divided up the second batch exactly in half once again. Hereafter the second coat went on without incident, and turned out awesome.

POINT BEING: If you plan on doing two coats out of one gallon, I would not recommend mixing it all at once. I had ideal weather conditions today - cloudy,68 with relatively low humidity. If you want the best possible two coat application split up the cans and mix twice, don't expect the published pot life of 6-10 hours to work out ideally - put in the extra effort to split the product up and you will be glad that you did.

I finished the trailer tub with one quarter each of the monstaliner and catalyst left over - I will use this up at some point in the future - covering the front floor pans on the YJ.

From an application standpoint Magnet Paints, Chassis Saver and Monstaliner all rock!

Hope the products hold up as well as I expect them to. Will post pictures soon.

Thanks, Magnetman!
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Unread 09-26-2010, 08:37 PM   #2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doggie View Post
I picked up on this thread while restoring an old military type tow behind jeep trailer. After restoring the entire trailer less the interior of the steel tub, I had some decisions to make. I decided the trailer restoration was worthy of more than slapping on any old bedliner. After researching out the popular roll on bedliners, I found that all of them have had plenty of praise and criticism. So I decided on getting a Line-X quote. At $300 for a straightforward 4x6 steel trailer tub, I hit the net again looking for a less costly solution.

Voila - this thread and Monstaliner! Am I glad I found you! After a bit of reading here, I purchased the one gallon kit. I ordered it Tuesday night and it arrived Friday evening - nice. Saturday I started in with the silver chassis saver - this stuff is nasty good. Wish I knew about the chassis saver sooner, the stuff is a killer prime coat, would have used it under the trailer had I known about it sooner. Coated the tub with 2 coats with 3 hours in between. Let dry overnight and started in with the Monstaliner today - Sunday.

Well, let me tell you, I was even more impressed with the Monstaliner product.

A couple of things I did different and glad I did. Assuming I was not going to need the full gallon for the trailer tub, I bought two (2) each of the following: two quart, one quart, and one pint plastic paint containers with measurement lines and lids. I also bought a set of cheap kitchen spatulas. Everything at the local hardware store for about $10. I divided up the gallon exactly even into the two 2 quart containers and the catalyst exactly even into the pint containers. MIXED THE MONSTLINER FIRST WITHOUT THE CATALYST BEFORE DIVIDING IT OUT.

First coat - Mixed the catalyst into the first plastic 2 quart container. Applied coat as per instructions. Had about 1-2 inches left from the first half gallon - re-covered the container for second coat.

Second coat - 3 1/2 hours later - went to use up the 1-2 inches of the first mix and found it had a significant skin on top and had also thickened significantly. I added a little less than 10% MEK and remixed it thoroughly assuming it would all blend back together - no go! I ended up rolling on some chunky liner. I quickly stopped the process, abandoned the first batch and divided up the second batch exactly in half once again. Hereafter the second coat went on without incident, and turned out awesome.

POINT BEING: If you plan on doing two coats out of one gallon, I would not recommend mixing it all at once. I had ideal weather conditions today - cloudy,68 with relatively low humidity. If you want the best possible two coat application split up the cans and mix twice, don't expect the published pot life of 6-10 hours to work out ideally - put in the extra effort to split the product up and you will be glad that you did.

I finished the trailer tub with one quarter each of the monstaliner and catalyst left over - I will use this up at some point in the future - covering the front floor pans on the YJ.

From an application standpoint Magnet Paints, Chassis Saver and Monstaliner all rock!

Hope the products hold up as well as I expect them to. Will post pictures soon.

Thanks, Magnetman!
Nice write-up, thanks. I'm glad it turned out well for you.

I have a potential solution for anyone worrying about this and wanting to try a suggestion.

The chunks are caused by the "skin" that can form in the container when left sitting for a while. In all the jobs that I have done,
and experiments performed, I have always been careful to close the can on the mixed material when I am not using it which really
only amounts to the time it takes to open the can and pour more material into a roller pan before closing the can again.
Honestly, I have had minimal problems with lumps and skinning except during the most extreme temperature conditions.

If you leave your can open for extra time during use, and this could be 5 to 10 minutes, 3, 4 , or 5 times during the course of
your 1st coat, skins or thickening of the surface can occur essentially shortening the pot life by hours.

When a can is left to sit 1/2 full during the wait time between coats there is definitely thickening of the surface layer in the can.
When you combine this wait time with any extra time the can was left open to the air during the 1st coat you could have a serious
problem with thickening of the surface.

If, after your 1st coat is complete, a small amount (3, 4, 5 ounces) of MEK is dribbled, drizzled, etc, over the surface of the
remaining liner in the can, there is much less risk of forming this skin in the can which can lead to lumps and chunks created when
mixing the coating again prior to starting the 2nd coat. When the can is re-opened again to prepare to roll the 2nd coat, you simply
drill mix the surface float of MEK into the coating and go.

Comments, questions and thoughts on this encouraged.

MagnetMan
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Unread 09-26-2010, 09:11 PM   #2008
monkeyhouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPT Jeep View Post
Nice to see a hard top job. That was in the back of my mind as a project if everything works out well.

Can you fill us in on the prep?
Yeah, I hated that color and really with the shine and texture, the look to me is awesome! I love it. For prep, well, I read through this thread a million times, read through the directions and read through Luckrider's writeup several times. The top I have is off of a 79 CJ and it's got a little texture to it so I wasn't sure if I should do anything different, but in the end, I didn't. I took my grinder and cleaned up any spots I saw that loked bad(be careful with a grinder, I was careless and have a nice gash on my knuckle for it...which made the entire day a little tougher without the use of that finger)I washed it down good twice with just good car wash. Then I used the pads in the kit(I cut them into strips) to rough up the existing paint. I started to use the MEK and a rag to clean up after that, but there was alot of crap so I ended up washing it again with car wash first and rinsing it off, then hitting it with a fresh clean rag and MEK. It is very important to keep a clean rag involved. Next, I taped everything up. First I used the brush and hit all the tape areas, edges, and hard to reach areas. It's really important to follow the directions and "dab," not stroke with the brush. I decided to go ahead and remove my tape after the first coat dried a bit and then only re-tape the sections where I didn't cover well. I also took the roller over as much of the brushed areas as possible. When I was using the roller, I noticed it worked alot better if I went in one direction....going back and forth seemed to make it look different...as well as turning the roller on the surface. When I did that the liner would leave spots not covered. These spots were easily covered with the second coat though. By the way, I bought my kit in the spring, it's actually dated on the cans in April and Just opened the first can this weekend and really saw no issues. If I think of anything else that will help, I will edit it in. If you have any specific questions, just ask.
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Unread 09-26-2010, 09:15 PM   #2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckRider View Post
That totally refreshed your top. When you get a chance, report back on how the hard top is in terms of sound and possibly insulation. It should deaden that hollow cave sound that comes from them.
will do!
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Unread 09-26-2010, 10:02 PM   #2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnetman View Post
Nice write-up, thanks. I'm glad it turned out well for you.

I have a potential solution for anyone worrying about this and wanting to try a suggestion.

The chunks are caused by the "skin" that can form in the container when left sitting for a while. In all the jobs that I have done,
and experiments performed, I have always been careful to close the can on the mixed material when I am not using it which really
only amounts to the time it takes to open the can and pour more material into a roller pan before closing the can again.
Honestly, I have had minimal problems with lumps and skinning except during the most extreme temperature conditions.

If you leave your can open for extra time during use, and this could be 5 to 10 minutes, 3, 4 , or 5 times during the course of
your 1st coat, skins or thickening of the surface can occur essentially shortening the pot life by hours.

When a can is left to sit 1/2 full during the wait time between coats there is definitely thickening of the surface layer in the can.
When you combine this wait time with any extra time the can was left open to the air during the 1st coat you could have a serious
problem with thickening of the surface.

If, after your 1st coat is complete, a small amount (3, 4, 5 ounces) of MEK is dribbled, drizzled, etc, over the surface of the
remaining liner in the can, there is much less risk of forming this skin in the can which can lead to lumps and chunks created when
mixing the coating again prior to starting the 2nd coat. When the can is re-opened again to prepare to roll the 2nd coat, you simply
drill mix the surface float of MEK into the coating and go.

Comments, questions and thoughts on this encouraged.

MagnetMan
I covered the can as directed after each time I transferred material to the paint tray and still got the skin & significant thickening, hence the reason for my post.

I also thought of using an MEK float AFTER the incident happened, as I put one in the can of the remaining unused chasis saver.

Thanks for making the recommendation Magnetman. If I were to do it again, I would still mix a seperate batch for each coat.

You should place the MEK float tidbit in the Monstaliner instructions for sure.
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