Originally Posted by hutch1200
BINGO...You nailed it. The new perch would read, from your drawing, 5*,.....as you eyeball the zero'd andle finder on the flat part of the dif nose. Just move your perch to 5* and tack. I think it would be safer, stronger, less intimidating and more user friendly. Plus less "possibly movable" parts in a place where nothing should move.
BONUS: it puts, as we say in Scranton, "Dem crummy ulunamin" shim peddlers out of business.
I rotated the bottom ones 5 degrees and highlighted it green. Bottom right and top right are now the same as top left(not shaded). Bottom left is now the same as was original bottom right was. I'm still a little confused as to what the advantage of incorporated shim is versus a standard mount set to the desired angle?
Here's what I've done in the past:
The frames are never level, the Jeep never sits perfect, spring mounts and shackles are always going to be tweaked --
-Cut perches off
-Grind tube smooth in the perch area
-Set new perches on axle
-Set springs into perches and lower weight of vehicle onto the axle
-Make sure spring perches are in line with front spring mounts (don't worry about the shackles they always move around)
-Set pinion angle, for cv it should be pointed directly at it (i take it ever so slightly lower so it doesn't vibrate on takeoff or under load)
-For non cv it should be the same angle as your rear output shaft
-Burn the perches in(or tack and pull it back out for full weld)
I'd be happy to make a set with your desired shim angle incorporated if you'd like. Just shoot me a pm with the angle/height and your axle info.