Apparently my reply never posted....
Thank you guys for the input.
I have since welded the gouges up. Turned out to be a pain, had to fish some 1/8" scraps into the frame rails where the gouges were and welded those to the existing metal. As I was doing this, I began to wonder if I had been too aggressive with the flap wheel on my grinder and removed some material from the rails themselves when grinding down the old welds. So I have come up with the idea of plating the single thickness area of the rails (between where the crossmember mounts and the rear LA brackets) with some more 16ga (just to go with the same thickness) and then weld the clayton unibody stiffeners on. AFTER welding the stiffeners on, I want to plate the rails from the A pillar support to the rear brackets with some 1/8" steel to stiffen the unibody up further and prevent future unibody failure/distortion from a very flexible suspension. The only thing I have to work out is where to make all the welds overlap because I will be hitting the inside of the plates and sheet metal with weld through primer to prevent corrosion. With welding the 16ga on I am thinking that I will just turn up the heat slightly on my welder and just weld directly to the "outer" piece penetrating both layers. Then with the 1/8" do some rosette and plug welds followed by some stitching.
Anyways, just throwing my ideas out there to see what you guys think. Ideas? Suggestions?
Oh also, I havent welded on the clayton crossmember on yet. I've done SO much practice welding for it but just am being overly paranoid I guess. I know I can do it.. I just cant decide which voltage setting to use on my welder (3 or 4)..
Maybe you guys can steer me straight?
So here are some welds with my Hobart Handler 210 set on a 4 (out of 7) with some different wire speeds.. Dont mind the blobbed up welds, when I began the welds I didn't hit the 16ga sheet in some spots so later on I went back and zapped it.. Made the welds look horrible but oh well.
close up of some of the good welds
And the edge joint. Blew threw in one spot so I had to fill it back in. On 4, it seems to undercut the 1/4" a little bit since its on the edge.
Welder set at 3
*Note* with my welder set at a 3, I have SO much more control and feel very comfortable with laying an awesome bead with this particular metal thickness/joint set up.
^^ I will definitely use the 3 setting when welding on the edges of the crossmember. Way more control, less undercut, better looking weld, etc.
And the joint setup (16ga sheet on top of 2x4x1/4" rectangular tubing with beveled edges which make for an interesting twist and is the reason for all the spatter
oh and heres from the top of the 16ga..
The welds on the top and right are with the 4 setting while on the left and bottom I used the 3.
So any input on which setting to use based off the pics?? I found two separate threads where people used their Millermatic 210 (very similar as my Hobart) set to a 3...
Again, sorry for the book.