YJ family cage/rollover - need additional cross brace - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Fabrication Shop > YJ family cage/rollover - need additional cross brace

FS: Wranger BRIGHT License Plate LED! Just $3! Great valueThanksgiving/Black Friday/Cyber Monday Deals at JeepinOutfBlack Friday Sale!!

Reply
Unread 03-22-2012, 11:21 AM   #1
lukeh
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 68
YJ family cage/rollover - need additional cross brace

I'm wanting to fit a brace across the back behind the rear seat so that I can replace the stock shoulder straps with 3/4 point harnesses. I want the harnesses to loop over the new brace so that they don't pull down on the shoulder.
Because its for my kids, and they have this habit of growing, I don't really want to weld it in, because in 2 years time I'll want to move it a bit higher etc.

I should add that they're already in aluminium framed high back boosters, so head protection is good.

Why do I want to go to harnesses? the existing shoulder belts have seen better days so need to be replaced anyway. The two boosters sit tight against each other, and the only way I can plug in the shoulder belts is through the back door, with a lot of difficulty. They also can't release them themselves (potentially not good in the event of an accident). Harnesses would mean they can 'do' them and 'undo' themselves (and strike me as inherently safer anyway).

So, what I'm looking for I think is some suggestions on how to fab the brace in such a way that it can be moved higher in future. What I have in mind at the moment is a horseshoe shape at the ends (over the existing vertical bars), with the brace in between. Then I'd simply drill through the horseshoe and the existing vertical bars and bolt them up. In a years time, I can move it up a couple of inches.
The potential downside I see to this is weakening the existing bars. Is that a concern on drilling 1/4" holes through?

Where might I get those horseshoes from? this is close to what I'm looking for I think



Any other ideas are very welcome.

thanks

lukeh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-22-2012, 01:05 PM   #2
lukeh
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 68
This is what I'm thinking



Welcome any comments.

thanks
lukeh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-22-2012, 04:09 PM   #3
DualPurposeXJ
Registered User
1989 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 254
Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeh View Post
This is what I'm thinking

Welcome any comments.

thanks
is there another half tube so it will fully wrap around the tube? if so that could work.
__________________
If you're in control you're not going fast enough - parnelli jones
DualPurposeXJ is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-22-2012, 07:18 PM   #4
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,279
As long as the tubes are parallel, you'd be able to slide your bar up. If they lean in at the top, you're gonna also have to adjust the length of your bar.

If I had to do an adjustable bar.. I think I'd attach each end with "tube clamps". To those tube clamps, I'd weld on a 1 1/2" tube "stubs" (maybe about 6-8 inches long). Those stubs would then be drilled thru with a hole (probably about 3/8" or so).
I'd then cut a piece of 1 3/4" tube to length. It would have slots milled (or cut by hand) in each end. Those slots would line up with the bolt holes in the 1 1/2" tubing.

You would then be able to slide the bigger tube over the smaller tubes (might want to shave a bit off the smaller tubes so they slide in easier) and slide a bolt thru the slots/bolt holes once everything is lined up. Then, attach to the factory bar.

By doing it this way, you're attachment points are stronger than just running a simple bolt thru the tube like you have pictured. By running a bolt thru the tube, it's prone to crushing the tube while tightening. Also, if the tube is pulled hard enough (read collision), you could pull the head of the bolt thru the tube.. rendering the tube loose.. where it wouldn't do any good for the harnesses and could actually become a projectile. Granted, that's a worst case scenario but better safe than sorry.. especially with the kiddies.

Honestly, if it were mine.. I'd just weld in a tube now (where I want it).. and cut/move it later on down the road. It's not that big of a deal to cut a simple tube loose and move it.
__________________
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
BESRK is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-23-2012, 06:27 PM   #5
lukeh
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Newport Beach, California
Posts: 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
As long as the tubes are parallel, you'd be able to slide your bar up. If they lean in at the top, you're gonna also have to adjust the length of your bar.

If I had to do an adjustable bar.. I think I'd attach each end with "tube clamps". To those tube clamps, I'd weld on a 1 1/2" tube "stubs" (maybe about 6-8 inches long). Those stubs would then be drilled thru with a hole (probably about 3/8" or so).
I'd then cut a piece of 1 3/4" tube to length. It would have slots milled (or cut by hand) in each end. Those slots would line up with the bolt holes in the 1 1/2" tubing.

You would then be able to slide the bigger tube over the smaller tubes (might want to shave a bit off the smaller tubes so they slide in easier) and slide a bolt thru the slots/bolt holes once everything is lined up. Then, attach to the factory bar.

By doing it this way, you're attachment points are stronger than just running a simple bolt thru the tube like you have pictured. By running a bolt thru the tube, it's prone to crushing the tube while tightening. Also, if the tube is pulled hard enough (read collision), you could pull the head of the bolt thru the tube.. rendering the tube loose.. where it wouldn't do any good for the harnesses and could actually become a projectile. Granted, that's a worst case scenario but better safe than sorry.. especially with the kiddies.

Honestly, if it were mine.. I'd just weld in a tube now (where I want it).. and cut/move it later on down the road. It's not that big of a deal to cut a simple tube loose and move it.
Thanks Bersk, thats helpful. I'm leaning away from welding the tube in because I'd like to be able to remove it sometimes (for better access).

I'm with you on bolting through the existing tube, I hadn't considered the bolt pulling through. When you talk about the "tube clamps", would you bolt the clamp through the existing tube, or literally just clamp it on (and if so, how would your clamp work)? My concern with not bolting it to the existing tube is that if the forces were great enough, the "brace" could get pulled down - though I do wonder if the forces were that great then this is all moot anyway!

Finally, do you have any suggestions on where to look for the materials, particularly clamp type pieces that might (wishful thinking) be ready made (my fab facilities are pretty much limited to an angle grinder and cheap welder).

thanks
lukeh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-23-2012, 07:55 PM   #6
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 12,279
I can't remember off the top of my head who sells the tube clamps.. Rokmen? Poly Perf? You can probably just Google it... "tube clamps" "roll bar clamps"..etc.
__________________
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
BESRK is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 03-23-2012, 11:27 PM   #7
jatepper
Registered User
1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,277
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=trail...1t:429,r:0,s:0
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
jatepper is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.