[freshlikefruit]

what you are doing to those cocky cj/yj/tj owners right now is what i would call cruel and unusual punishment...great build man, esp for 19 yrs old. you are earning a lot of respect with this build.

[SILASPRIT]

Originally Posted by DC4W-93XJ

i see the TPI intake runners in the background!!

[jeepin_in_a_94]

Originally Posted by DC4W-93XJ

hey thanks a lot.. that's actually my major.. just like i was sayin jason just now.. im a 19 year old college student, im majoring in welding.. lookin to get my AS **associates of science** and all my certifications here and play football, then transfer to a university and get my BS **bachelors of science** hopefully on some kind of scholarship then ultimately become a pipe welder

hey im 20 im minoring in metals processing (welding, casting, fabricating) in college trying to get all the knowledge to open my own fabshop (BS in manfufacturing technology management). im glad to see younger guys like you doing such big projects, makes my dreams seem more reachable keep up the good work

[Wrenchands]

Subscribing...

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by jason m

for what its worth ive been on the stock 30 spline outers for 4 years now with 39's and no braekage to date. run them and just dont be stupid with the pedel and they will last.
maybe i missed it but what year 60 you starting with. are they neck down or non neck down shafts. ive seen neck downs last but nothing like the non neck downs.

ya its allways the buget that kills the rear steer, but keep searching for another cheap 60 front and just run it offset like it is. weld it and just get 35 spline outer stubs and your done for now, that's the plan i have for my jeep.

for the buggy i have rockwells so im set there, agin nice work and are you going full hydro with a single ended CYL or a double.

jason.

i bought a whole running driving truck.. it was an '86 Chevy K30 dually pickup.. im not sure what you mean by "neck down"????? so i couldnt tell ya.. as for the hydro steer, yes and it will be a single piston cylinder, reason being, 1 they're cheaper, 2 i want to put the cylinder on top of the axle rather than out in front.. then ill find a 2wd pitman arm like what the use for the cross over steering setups.. im not sure yet though.. i havn't looked into anything like that at this point, not sure if i want to just drill and tap my gear box or just find a cheap orbital valve... like i said, not sure yet, in my head i have an idea but i dont have the cylinder yet to mock onto the axle to see it it'll clear everything ya know

[jason m]

your shafts will be NON neck down ( unless some one swapped them out for neck down's ). what that means is when they first started building 60 fronts the shafts are 35 spline 1.5" at the spline then taper down to 1.375 then back up to 1.5 near the yoke. but after 82ish the shafts went to NON neck down's witch mean there a steady 1.5" ( well really a tad bigger than 1.5" past the spline ) all the way down witch are stronger. so your safe with what you have

watch out buying a junkyard steering valve. make sure its a open center NOT closed. the closed center valve's will work but you need the right pump for them witch is not the typical "P" pump that you will use. if you dont use the right pump the closed center valve will work but you just cant stop steering the rig when its runing. becasue the valve does not have a way to bypass the fluid in a nutruel or a non steering use.

so another words when your warming up the rig and your not steering the fluid cant flow threw the valve. so you will burn up pumps very fast.

there will be numbers on each valve ( like the charlynns or the EATONS ) you can look them up for the spec's. i think a good hydro assest would work and probally be cheaper but the full hydro will be the one that can grow with the rig.

was the truck you bought a camper special? im just wondering why it had the dana 70HD, i know they put them in those trucks for the heaver GVW.

jason.

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by jeepin_in_a_94

hey im 20 im minoring in metals processing (welding, casting, fabricating) in college trying to get all the knowledge to open my own fabshop (BS in manfufacturing technology management). im glad to see younger guys like you doing such big projects, makes my dreams seem more reachable keep up the good work

Very nice!! that'd be pretty an interesting major.. i'd like to own my own fab shop after a few 10 15 years maybe of runnin pipe..
but heck yea man.. all it takes is a little ambition and imagination

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by jason m

your shafts will be NON neck down ( unless some one swapped them out for neck down's ). what that means is when they first started building 60 fronts the shafts are 35 spline 1.5" at the spline then taper down to 1.375 then back up to 1.5 near the yoke. but after 82ish the shafts went to NON neck down's witch mean there a steady 1.5" ( well really a tad bigger than 1.5" past the spline ) all the way down witch are stronger. so your safe with what you have

watch out buying a junkyard steering valve. make sure its a open center NOT closed. the closed center valve's will work but you need the right pump for them witch is not the typical "P" pump that you will use. if you dont use the right pump the closed center valve will work but you just cant stop steering the rig when its runing. becasue the valve does not have a way to bypass the fluid in a nutruel or a non steering use.

so another words when your warming up the rig and your not steering the fluid cant flow threw the valve. so you will burn up pumps very fast.

there will be numbers on each valve ( like the charlynns or the EATONS ) you can look them up for the spec's. i think a good hydro assest would work and probally be cheaper but the full hydro will be the one that can grow with the rig.

was the truck you bought a camper special? im just wondering why it had the dana 70HD, i know they put them in those trucks for the heaver GVW.

jason.

nope, silverado.. a farm company owned it but i doubt they bought it new.. i have no idea.. i know it was an option.. 14B or dana 70HD... cant know lol
But ill look at the box off this truck.. could i run an open valve box with a factory pump and do alright??
and so do i have the stronger outer shafts or no?? i haven't laid a finger on that axle yet, haven't even cut the spring perches off yet.. i only had my spring break back home to gather all the parts i'd need for this thing.. so i bought that truck, stripped it, sold the rest then bought tires, material, rod ends, and built that rear axle...

[dougy147]

And I thought I knew how to weld and build things when I was 19

Thanks for making me feel inadequate!

Very nice....impressive in fact.

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by freshlikefruit

what you are doing to those cocky cj/yj/tj owners right now is what i would call cruel and unusual punishment...great build man, esp for 19 yrs old. you are earning a lot of respect with this build.

thats exactly what im looking for too.. there's this guy in my local club that is the most arrogant just bleep bleep bleep hahaha that i've ever met.. i sold my last jeep and all he had to say was thats fine it was just a mall crawler anyways.. oh i could of killed him..
but thanks for the support!! hope you enjoy the build as much as i am

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by SILASPRIT

i see the TPI intake runners in the background!!

yup to bad they aren't mine.. those are my little brothers haha.. i was saying earlier how i atta steal lil bro's toys and hide them under my bed for me to play with.. the bed being my hood

[DC4W-93XJ]

Originally Posted by dougy147

And I thought I knew how to weld and build things when I was 19

Thanks for making me feel inadequate!

Very nice....impressive in fact.

well im not your average 19 year old either.. my dads been a welder all my life and most of his.. so i've had a decent fab shop and someone to teach me since i was like 9 is when i started welding.. so.. its definitely just like hand writing.. everyone's different and it takes a while to really figure it out.. ESPECIALLY with the MIG process.. it might look great but penetration is key and thats where most MIG welds fail.. didn't have the machine set up quite right and it didn't penetrate like it needed to.. sure does look good though, lol ya know what im sayin??
i guess what im tryin to say is yes im 19.. but im in no way a newbie to the metal fab environment..

[jason m]

Originally Posted by DC4W-93XJ

nope, silverado.. a farm company owned it but i doubt they bought it new.. i have no idea.. i know it was an option.. 14B or dana 70HD... cant know lol
But ill look at the box off this truck.. could i run an open valve box with a factory pump and do alright??
and so do i have the stronger outer shafts or no?? i haven't laid a finger on that axle yet, haven't even cut the spring perches off yet.. i only had my spring break back home to gather all the parts i'd need for this thing.. so i bought that truck, stripped it, sold the rest then bought tires, material, rod ends, and built that rear axle...

no your outers will be the stock 30 spline stubs only the dana 70 or industrail 60 fronts got the 35 spline outers. yes a factory "P" style will work with a open center steering valve.
if you decide to run a full hydro the factory "P" pump is plenty even if you decide to run a hydro assest off that chevy box.
is the carrier on the dana 70 a two piece ( look's like a 14 bolt carreir ) or a single like the 60 front. some HD's used a two piece carrier and my frine has a detroit for one for sale. but i think only the early years ( 1970's ) used the two piece carrier's.

jason.

[Kenbo-Slice]

Its been a couple days since I checked your build. All I can say is HOLY ****!! You are flat out impressive, thats all there is to it. I'm 20 and I weld for work, but damn... I wish I was going to school for it!

[BESRK]

You're a machine....