So the winch rope or cable comes off the bottom of the roller and the fairlead keep the force of pull to where the winch can handle it? Just wanted to make sure I understood.
When planning out your location I see the winch is very close to the fairlead. Is there a distance that these need to be from each other?
Also any advise on the difference between a roller fairlead and the hawse style fairlead?
I am excited to become part of this forum. Great answer in a fast amount of time. Would love to build my own front bumper maybe.
yup, that's pretty much the extent of it. there's no real formula for the distance between fairlead and drum, the main reason mine is so close is due to the physical constraints of the plate material, mainly the 7" leg of the angle iron i used. it i wanted to space it back more i would have ended up drilling holes close to the edge of the plate and i didn't really feel that there was any room to spare back there. that's why i kept it close to the fairlead. having used the winch more since then, it might actually have been a little better to move the winch back more to decrease the angle of the rope when it spools onto the ends of the drum. the fairlead isn't sized to be as wide as the drum, so the rope doesn't spool into the end of the drum all the time. it's not much of an issue as i can use my hand to carefully guide it over, but i wonder if more room between drum and fairlead would have been better.
as far as roller vs hawse lead, early marketing when the synthetic lines first came into main stream popularity said that a polished hawse lead was needed when using synth line because the cable hawse was too rough and the rollers could pinch the line. nowadays it's pretty much been proven that the roller leads are safe for synthetic, but i would still stay away from a hawse designed for cable. the one that came with my winch definitely is rough enough and also more of a knife edge (not really THAT sharp but definitely not as rounded as the alum version i have on now) so that i wouldn't feel comfortable using it with my synth line. I've got no real complaints about the alum hawse though. you just need to be sure there are no burrs on it if you're running the synth line. don't go alum if you plan on running cable though, a hard pull to the side and the steel cable will start putting grooves in the softer aluminum.
RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.
92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood