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Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 03-23-2006, 09:24 AM   #16
mxg342
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1984 CJ7 
 
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I was in the same boat. I didn't know how to attach the winch plate and bumper so I decided to make an entire winch bumper out of the deal. Oh and I can second the plasma cutter recommendation. I built the basic front with an angle grinder and welder. Then the additional work was done after I got the plasma. Worlds of difference.

My bumper is held on with 8 3/8" grade 8 bolts. I highly recommend not using stainless bolts unless you are sure they are grade 8 stainless which is not common. Most stainless bolts are not even grade 2 rated.

mvc-016s.jpg   img_06051.jpg  
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'84 CJ-7 Junkyard TBI 360/T18/D300, 4" 4WDH Lift, D44 front with ARB and HS/D44 Rear w/ Detroit, 4.56s, 36" Iroks, TFI, TJ flares, Homemade rocker guards and bumpers with swing out, Optima Yellow Top, M8000, York OBA, 6pt cage
"when you're up to your *** in alligators, it is hard to remember that your original intention is to drain the swamp"
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Unread 03-23-2006, 11:09 AM   #17
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxg342
My bumper is held on with 8 3/8" grade 8 bolts. I highly recommend not using stainless bolts unless you are sure they are grade 8 stainless which is not common. Most stainless bolts are not even grade 2 rated.
yeah, definitely stay away from generic stainless for these bolts. I can get grade 5 but I'd rather just use some antiseize and known grade 8's

on a side note, Forney carbide burrs for the die grinder work awesome! picked one up today for 20 bucks, but it was 20 bucks well spent. I finished off those two back holes in about 10 minutes. I did in that short amount of time what it took an hour and a half to do last night. if you're getting one for the grinder, make sure you grab the ones rated for the higher rpms as they make rotary files for the drill that are only rated to 2500 rpms, way slower than the die grinder turning around 20K-30K
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 03-23-2006, 05:37 PM   #18
05Whiterubi
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This plate looks great! I subscribe to see the "finished product"!
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Unread 03-24-2006, 12:35 AM   #19
sentinal02
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Well, here we are on day three. Went to the store early this morning and decided to give these tungsten carbide cutters a try. All I can say is WOW! These things remove metal like a chainsaw going through rotted wood. I had that second hole enlarged in 10 minutes flat and that was taking time to do a couple test fits. So now we have a plate that holds the winch and bolts to the jeep! Sweet! I wonít bore you all with a pic of plate bolted up just yet. Thereís still more cutting to do. Since I donít have access to a fancy mill or plasma cutter I kept the aesthetics to a minimum here. I just wanted to give the plate a ďfinishedĒ look so as not to look like I tossed a piece of angle iron up there and called it good. So I settled for cutting two angles off either side of the plate while leaving plenty of material to hold the fairlead. Now hereís where I made another mistake. I also needed to cut down the plate to 34Ē to get rid of the over hang on the sides. Again, not exactly necessary, but every little bit of weight helps with a 4 cyl, lol. So I came in the required inch on either side and then drew my angled cuts from that line. Turns out this isnít a good idea. I ended up with corners that look like this:



Notice how trying to get the two cuts to join up required leaving a knife edge from the angled cut? Not good planning. What I should have done is moved in another inch or so from the 34Ē marks that I had just made and drew my angle to that point. Then I would have made the length adjusting cut and the angle separate with the angle stopping before I entered the lower leg of the plate. If thatís hard to understand take a look at this pic:



This is the front face of the angle (where the lead is mounted). The red lines are the cuts I was making. You can see in the top version which I did that itís going to leave a sharp edge. The bottom adds the third cut right at the top of the bottom legís surface to join the cuts smoothly. As it was this is what I ended up with after I filled in these sharp corners with the welder and ground them down.



In the end though I was able to get everything bolted up and cut down:



Most of the day was spent cutting those angles and smoothing out the rough edges around the fairlead just to be safe. All in all Iím quite happy with the way it turned out. One disappointment though was when I went to finish assembling the winch. I had thought that the control box automatically bolted to the winch itself without any special attachments. Imagine my surprise when I found out that you need to buy Warnís mounting kit to get the bracket to do that. Not really a big deal, but itís something to remember for anyone whoís buying one of these things. Youíd think they would tell you that somewhere other than the instruction manual. I called up CSE Off-road (my winch supplier. Who gave me one hell of a sweet deal on this package, btw) and found that I could get the bracket separate for about 20 bucks. Since that would take time and Iíd have to pay more shipping etc, I went back to the drawing board to see what I could do without the bracket. Iíve come up with two options: 1) Get some bulk #2 cable and some solder on lugs and make new, longer leads for the box and remote mount it somewhere else, like under the hood where the stock jack used to be, or 2) mount it as shown in this pic, either by bolting it directly to the grill, or using some flat bar with a couple bends in it and attaching it to the winch plate.



Iím still up in the air about this one. I kinda like the idea of the remote mount, but I was also planning on using that same space for my OBA regulator and other components as well. But mounting the box on the grill will cut some of the air flow to the radiator (though the Taurus fan under there should still pull it through if need be. Itís only a 4 cyl after all) and kind of hides the right blinker. Thatís on down side to the side marker lights not blinking on the early models. What do you guys think? Pics? Testimonies?

That aside though I did go ahead and unspooled the cable to get the new synthetic on there, as you can see. If youíre doing this be sure to mount your polished fairlead (assuming thatís what youíre using) AFTER you unspool the cable. Otherwise the steel cable with wear into the aluminum and may give you some nasty burrs on the polished surface. When you put the new rope on, you need to do a light duty pull in order to stretch the rope and set it properly on the drum. This is also necessary if youíre going to be using the cable. Find a low incline that you can winch up (something like 5į or so) and unspool your winch until thereís only 5 wraps left on the drum. Hook up, put the jeep in neutral and then winch to your anchor point, making sure the rope or cable spools onto the drum evenly. If no gradual slope is handy, find a flat surface and lightly put the emergency brake on. Just enough to put some drag on the wheels, but not enough to stop the tire from spinning. This keeps the rope/cable from bird nesting and also keeps the lower layers tight so the upper ones donít get drawn down when you load the winch. The winch pulled perfectly and the 100 ft of rope fits on the drum nicely. I do need to get a new alternator belt though. This oneís been squealing on and off lately and the winch just made it worse when pulling. Picked that up tonight so Iíll toss that on tomorrow and see about getting the box mounted. Wiring the winch was super simple. The 3 control box wires are all color coded and labeled 1, 2 and 3 so unless youíre color blind and illiterate you should have no problems. I do wish they had put the motor ground in a better spot though because I bolted the winch up before I realized I had to put the small wire from the control box on the ground stud. I think before I do the final mounting Iím going to cut that wire in half and put a quick disconnect in line there so I can just unplug it if I ever need to take the box off. Without that Iíd have to take the whole winch off to undo the connection. The only other connections are the two main power leads that go to the battery. Theyíre red and black so itís hard to screw that up. Iíll get some pics of the wiring when I decide what to do with the box though. Now itís time to start thinking about painting this puppy. Then I can cover it in stickers to give it more horsepower!

Seriously though, I wouldnít mind some cool decals or maybe a bolt on aluminum cutout that looks cool. Get that and the fairlead anodized an electric blue or green against the black of the jeepÖ.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 03-24-2006, 12:54 AM   #20
sentinal02
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Oh yeah, I almost forgot. anybody got some ideas for anti-theft tricks to keep the winch on the front of my bumper where it belongs? I don't live in a high crime area, but that doesn't mean i won't ever travel through one. I was thinking about putting some fender washes on a couple of the bolts, both on the winch bolts and the plate, and then bending them over the head of the bolt and welding them there. this way there's no possible way to get a wrench on the bolts without grinding the weld off first. True, if a thief wants it bad enough they're always find a way to get it off, but why make it easy for them.


And on a different note, a friend of mine from another board brought up the gusset topic there as well, but he was thinking more along the lines of protecting the winch in the event of a frontal impact so i guess there is a good reason to add them. still, with this design i can think of no good way of adding any, and if i'm hitting something hard enough to bend that 3/8" plate then a broken winch is probably going to be the least of my worries. a winch sitting in the engine bay where the water pump used to be comes to mind. plus i plan to have the bumper sitting forward of the winch plate so that should help absorb some of the initial impact.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 07-19-2006, 11:59 PM   #21
sentinal02
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hmmm, forgot about this thread until today. i guess i should post a pic of the finished product. here we go.



i'll finish the write up tomorrow.
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 07-20-2006, 10:51 PM   #22
TheDuke05
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Looks dam good! I'm copy it.
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Unread 07-21-2006, 07:13 PM   #23
KrazyGimp
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That looks sweet. Great write-up man. Thanks for posting that up here.
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Unread 12-25-2007, 11:27 PM   #24
brooksjeep
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I know this thread is completely dead, but i wanted to bring it back to life because it really helped me and with christmas just finishing well i figured im not the only one who got a M8000 for christmas
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Unread 12-25-2007, 11:37 PM   #25
slacker92104
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brooksjeep
I know this thread is completely dead, but i wanted to bring it back to life because it really helped me and with christmas just finishing well i figured im not the only one who got a M8000 for christmas
I'm glad you did. I like the clean utilitarian look of it. I may have to do one myself (when I get a winch)
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Unread 12-26-2007, 10:43 AM   #26
ezrider327
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Some thoughts on theft prevention, either tack a piece if 1"channel over the bolt heads ( would have to be ground/cut off to gain acess to the bolts, or even hinge it on one side and secure it with a padlock or pin lock on the other ) or "cover the bottom with with an expanded metal "skid/ cover plate". Either way it will deter theft of the winch.

BTW forgot to mention NICE build that looks sweet.
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Last edited by ezrider327; 12-27-2007 at 05:00 PM..
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Unread 12-27-2007, 03:48 PM   #27
timatoe
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Hey sentinal02,

Did you weld the bumper to the underside of the winch plate?? Or I guess the more appropriate question would be how is the bumper attached at the top?
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Unread 12-27-2007, 08:10 PM   #28
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe
Hey sentinal02,

Did you weld the bumper to the underside of the winch plate?? Or I guess the more appropriate question would be how is the bumper attached at the top?
The bumper and plate are two separate pieces. to mount the bumper i took some 3/16 x 2" flat stock and bent it in a U to catch all 3 holes on each side of the frame. 2 top, one on the bottom. however in hind sight i don't recommend this approach unless you have access to better tools than a torch and a hammer. if you've got a shop press or a bender that you can bend more precisely with then it's not a bad way to go. but i had a hell of a time getting the bumper to line up with the holes once it was done because of the sweeping radius of the bends. the corners weren't tight enough and i had to really pound on the front of the bumper to drive it back on the frame to catch the holes. most guys just opt to weld tabs to the top and bottom faces of the bumper, but i wanted a cleaner look.
__________________
RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 12-27-2007, 10:21 PM   #29
timatoe
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Thanks, I've been thinking about this all day. I've gotta go see the steel guy tomorrow.
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Quote:
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Unread 11-13-2009, 09:55 AM   #30
Group_er
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Thanks for sharing your build! Im off to start mine now!
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