Why did I blow this hole through my frame while welding? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
Alheim
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Why did I blow this hole through my frame while welding?

Photo below.

So I'm welding my relocated frame motor mounts on my frame during my 4.0 swap, and things are going pretty well. I'm a novice welder with maybe ten hours of practice, and countless hours of welding study & research under my belt.

I'm welding with a 110v Lincoln MIG, using 0.035" flux core (Lincoln Innershield NR-211).

I stop welding to check out my progress, and for the first time, I see that I blew a 1/8" hole right through the frame! The frame is 1/8" thick. This has never happened before, even while practicing and intentionally pushing the machine to the limits (moving too fast, too slow, wire feed too fast, too slow, etc). I also had already welded the other motor mount with no issues.

Any idea why this happened?

I think the weld looks alright. What do you guys think? Is a second pass necessary?



Cheers,

Alex


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UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 10:35 AM
AGDubyaJ
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just stitch it shut and run 2 more passes on it. there may have been a thin spot in the base metal (rust), or your travel speed was a little slow/ machine settings to high. its an easy fix, it shouldnt compromise the weld if you fix it properly.

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post #3 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 01:45 PM
BESRK
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I would've run the bead uphill though. See how you're bead is thin and "sunk in". Running uphill will deposit more filler. Just gotta be mindfull not to sit still too long, or the puddle can fall out.

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post #4 of 13 Old 04-28-2013, 05:51 PM
underpowered
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X2 on what besrk said. vertical up is much stronger than vertical down, though takes more practice and is harder to get a pretty weld going up.

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post #5 of 13 Old 04-29-2013, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
Alheim
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All, thanks for the replies and for the confident boost. I skipped past the hole, welded the rest, and stitchedit up after.

The picture doesn't do the shape of the weld justice - it's actually less "sunk in" that it appears, and is more of a proper filet.

I was apprehensive about doing this welding myself, but in retrospect, I'm glad I did and confident in the results. All the prep work made for an easy weld. Anyway, we'll see what happens once I get her started and dump the clutch!

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.

Last edited by Alheim; 05-03-2013 at 08:34 AM. Reason: typo
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-03-2013, 12:55 AM
rustywrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alheim View Post

The picture doesn't do the shape of the weld justice - it's actually less "sunk in" that it appears., and is more of a proper filet.
I have to agree with others. The weld seems a bit "thin" to me. And the mention of up hill is stronger is not just someone commenting it is a fact man.

Not bashing, but you basically told us you were book smart, not practice smart in this situation.

I personally would cap all of your vertical welds with an uphill pass.


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post #7 of 13 Old 05-03-2013, 08:38 AM Thread Starter
Alheim
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No worries, the input is appreciated. I'll try to post another picture later, if I can.

'95 YJ 123bhp 4-banger powerhouse.
UPDATE: 2.5L ENGINE RETIRED; she was still running strong at 212,000mi.
4.0 swap in progress.
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-03-2013, 02:57 PM
spward
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But if he is going to go uphill, he needs to watch his temp as the heat will rise and might have other holes to fill.
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-07-2013, 02:09 PM
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A good rule of thumb is run up if it has flux. Most stick rods as well as flux wire doesn't solidify quick enough and can trap slag in the weld if you weld downhill
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-07-2013, 08:12 PM
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It doesn't matter which wire it is..fluxcore or hard wire..downhill is a big no no for the fact you are not penetrating,you are only at most getting a surface fusion with no kind of penetration for strength and a great possibility of just a cold overlap and no fusion,in other words it just poured metal over it and never fused,but looks good....

I would also be the one to recommend cleaning that down hill up with a grinder and run an uphill for insurance,you'll just have to practice your uphills a little more to get the heat and wire speed and hand speed right.

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post #11 of 13 Old 05-08-2013, 03:00 PM
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I tell my son that "Welding downhill is like pouring Lava over the steel." It just flows over the surface..

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post #12 of 13 Old 05-08-2013, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK View Post
I tell my son that "Welding downhill is like pouring Lava over the steel." It just flows over the surface..
lol..thats actualy a good way to put it

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

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post #13 of 13 Old 05-08-2013, 07:00 PM
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Welds

I would have back grinded some. It's not what you get on it as much as what you get into it. I would run a root pass then capped it. May be over kill but I'm used to pipe welding. My opinion, I thought you did fine for as little hands on experience you have. It is hard to weld rust. Grind it out, fill it, grind out again until you get a solid weld joint. Its all part of the game. Have fun with it.
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