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post #16 of 75 Old 07-28-2014, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
Have you ever glued two pieces of metal together and tried to bend it?
yes.

basically you made a 1/2" plate. 1/4" would be plenty strong enough though if proper bends were made to better distribute the forces across other axis'.



meanwhile. spend more time behind the TIG today.




1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #17 of 75 Old 07-28-2014, 07:03 PM
wushaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered
yes. basically you made a 1/2" plate. 1/4" would be plenty strong enough though if proper bends were made to better distribute the forces across other axis'. meanwhile. spend more time behind the TIG today.
Yea I bent a store bought plate that had all the nice bends in it.
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post #18 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 10:40 AM
youngjeepr
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The aluminum is looking better. Still looks like you need a bit more heat and move quicker.

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars


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post #19 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
The aluminum is looking better. Still looks like you need a bit more heat and move quicker.
i tried a bit more heat and it blew through extremely easily if i went much higher than what i was running.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #20 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 04:21 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered
i tried a bit more heat and it blew through extremely easily if i went much higher than what i was running.
What size filler metal are you using? Also what size/type tungsten?

How many amps are you running and how thick is the material?

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars


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post #21 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 05:26 PM
Cherokee95kid
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Just finished my rear bumper and swing out only a few small details to finish up
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post #22 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 05:27 PM
Cherokee95kid
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And just started the front bumper
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post #23 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
underpowered
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
What size filler metal are you using? Also what size/type tungsten?

How many amps are you running and how thick is the material?
3/32" filler with a 3/32" 2% ceriated tungsten on 1/8" wall 6061 Box tubing set on 125 amps for fillet welds. only running 90 amps for butt and outside corner welds.

Tried pure tungsten, and the ceriated seemed to work better for me. Ground to a point, then blunted before using.

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #24 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
underpowered
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but pulled a HP30 and started dis assembly to prepare to install in my ZJ. just waiting on parts to start putting it back together. it looks rough, but came apart really easily considering it has been in a field for the last year.


1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #25 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 07:11 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered
3/32" filler with a 3/32" 2% ceriated tungsten on 1/8" wall 6061 Box tubing set on 125 amps for fillet welds. only running 90 amps for butt and outside corner welds. Tried pure tungsten, and the ceriated seemed to work better for me. Ground to a point, then blunted before using.
Your setup sounds pretty good for starting out.

Personally I set my machine at 150-175 for 1/8" you won't get as fine of an adjustment with the foot pedal but you will be able to start the puddle quicker and weld faster.

I set my machine at 80 when I weld .035 wall .75 tubing.

Some of the best advice I've gotten is weld fast and hot. Don't get me wrong there is a time and place for slow and low heat welding but aluminum is not one of those places.

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars


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post #26 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 08:18 PM Thread Starter
underpowered
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will have to try a turn it up a bit again now that i am a bit more practiced and see what i can do. Thanks for the tips

1998 ZJ-- lowered a touch

2005 GMC 2500HD 496 C.I.

Fat Amy-1989 K5 blazer. Linked, lifted, 38.5's on won tons. Big Girls can play in the woods too.
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post #27 of 75 Old 07-30-2014, 08:28 PM
youngjeepr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underpowered
will have to try a turn it up a bit again now that i am a bit more practiced and see what i can do. Thanks for the tips
No problem. If you have any questions let me know.

88 YJ- 4.7l stroker, AW4, SOA, 8.8, hp D30 powertrax no slip,3" front stretch with waggy springs, stock replacement springs in the rear, 35/12.5 r15 goodyear kevlars


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post #28 of 75 Old 07-31-2014, 05:31 PM
AtTheHelm
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Got this in the mail today...

more pics after it's assembled.
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post #29 of 75 Old 08-01-2014, 02:04 PM
RebelRider
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Just about done with my bumper/tire carrier




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post #30 of 75 Old 08-01-2014, 06:43 PM
Killswitch505
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nice bumper when I'm done with the front I'm going to start on the rear did you start with a DIY kit if so which one
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