What size DOM ? three link LA. - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 3 Old 02-16-2011, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
01GreenXJ
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What size DOM ? three link LA.

hello all,

i have a a question about the LA 3 link i am building for my cherokee. i plan on using .250 DOM for all of the arms. The lowers will be ~3' and the upper ~2.5' So the question is. Will it be strong enough? The OD is 1.5" on the .250 i would imagine that would be plenty strong enough. but i have not done much with DOM tubing before. I can always sleeve it with a thinner wall for strength but that would obviously cost more money.

So let me know what you think, and what size DOM You have used for any suspension builds that you may have done.

Thanks ahead of time.

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post #2 of 3 Old 02-16-2011, 06:18 PM
BESRK
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Generally, with DOM links.. thicker walls do more to resist denting.. larger diameter does more to resist bending. Of course, thick walls and large diameter also equal more weight and higher cost. So, we try to find a good balance of durability, weight, and cost with our links.. especially the lower ones (subject to more abusive contact with obstacles).

On my old buggy, my lower links were 2"x 3/8" wall DOM. I bent 3 of them (slightly) the first time I took the rig out. Granted, this was a 5000lb buggy driven with no regard for drivetrain longevity.. I abused it pretty good and often used the lower links almost like "ramps" for getting up on obstacles..


If it were my rig... I would probably opt for at least 2" diameter lower links.. with at least .250" wall thickness... but preferably 3/8". If I planned to drive the rig aggressively/abusively, I'd probaly step up to 2.5" diameter and 3/8" or even 1/2" wall thickness. Heavy but tough.

In the end, only you know how you plan to wheel the rig so I'd plan on lowers that will stand up to your style of driving.. with a bit of "overkill" added just in case.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..


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post #3 of 3 Old 02-16-2011, 06:28 PM
MO2500
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Most use 2" .250 wall for lowers and I think you can use 1.75" .120 wall for the uppers. The uppers don't get abused like the lowers so you don't need the extra wall thickness.

1.5" .250 wall will only have an ID of 1" and that would limit you to pretty small shank size for your joints if they are going to be adjustable. Most weld in bungs are designed to fit into a tube with 1.5" ID like 2" .250 wall or 1.75" .120 wall.

What are you planning to use for joints?

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