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Unread 10-25-2010, 09:19 AM   #16
BigBass
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In the perfect world of ideal conditions and OHSA safety you would put the ground as close to your weld as possible. In the real world its not so critical. I would definitely suggest some plate on there or build a grid structure you can clamp too so you have lots of places to hold things down. Or at the very least build a few half clamps.

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Unread 10-25-2010, 09:33 AM   #17
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So I can lay hardie board on top, then diamond plate or similar on the hardie board? I have used this stuff before.

I want to make these into twin welding tables that last me for ever.
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Unread 10-25-2010, 09:39 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by BigBass View Post
In the perfect world of ideal conditions and OHSA safety you would put the ground as close to your weld as possible. In the real world its not so critical. I would definitely suggest some plate on there or build a grid structure you can clamp too so you have lots of places to hold things down. Or at the very least build a few half clamps.
I've yet to run into where the safety man or any OSHA rules stating to keep a ground as close as possible to the weld...not saying it isn't there..just never heard of it or ran into that situation yet..

It's more of a "preference" for the weldor,the further way from the weld,the less current/amps..for instance,putting a ground clamp on the base of a column and welding up on the next floor or higher you will have to turn the heat up on the welder to compensate for lost of amps through the travel getting there,same applies to longer weld leads,the longer the weld leads,the more amps to compensate.

This is why i like to clamp directly to the work when possible,you get the hottest and smoothest weld,especialy with wirefeed.

One way to make sure it is getting a direct current on a fab table is to bolt the clamp permanantly to the table,but make an extension right off the bolted end with a clamp on the end,this way when needed you can use the extension when needed on something you can't quite get a good ground on to weld in the position you want that feels best.
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Unread 10-25-2010, 10:01 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Pokeman View Post
So I can lay hardie board on top, then diamond plate or similar on the hardie board? I have used this stuff before.

I want to make these into twin welding tables that last me for ever.
Are you talking about Grating when you say Hardie board?..if so..thats the first i heard it called that..lol
As long you don't get carried with beating on it and too much heat ,you should be fine,as in any plate top fab table,when they get scarred up you can fill the scars with a lil weld and grind flush again.
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Unread 10-26-2010, 06:41 AM   #20
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No he his refering to the Hardie Board/Hardibacker (tile underlayment from Lowes/HD) fiber cement board to prevent the heat from welding/cutting from lighting crap under it on fire. Get a scrap and take a blowtorch to it, no popping or burning and the other side is cool to the touch, I lined a cheapo gunsafe to gimme some fire rating for my guns after playing with some of it. Think of it as a rigid fire blanket except cheaper...
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Unread 10-26-2010, 07:31 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by schitzangiggles View Post
No he his refering to the Hardie Board/Hardibacker (tile underlayment from Lowes/HD) fiber cement board to prevent the heat from welding/cutting from lighting crap under it on fire. Get a scrap and take a blowtorch to it, no popping or burning and the other side is cool to the touch, I lined a cheapo gunsafe to gimme some fire rating for my guns after playing with some of it. Think of it as a rigid fire blanket except cheaper...
Ahhh ok..thanks for clarifying

I've never used or run into it yet
My thoughts would be if using it under the plate it would bust up and fall apart after a few beatings on the plate with a hammer or such when fabbing something up,plus being a thin 1/4" plate being used but now having nothing to weld most of the plate to and keep it from warping would be a problem too.

I still think on the cheap the grating/plate would be a good idea,i don't think i'd want to put a thick plate on top of those cabinets,i really don't think they'd handle the weight/abuse it would receive as a fab table.

a 1/4" plate weighs just a tad over 10 lbs per square foot(10.20 to be exact)1" weighing 40.80 per square foot.....,then factor in weight of the grating,they come in a variety of sizes,most common is 3/4-1" from what i've seen,and can be had up to over 6",all being different width of bars and thickness of the bars to be able handle different loads on them safely.

Here's a good link to tell all the sizes and weights of mild steel(carbon)grating,i have to know or have access to these things being a rigger/flagger trainer/qualifier for Southern Nuclear plants over the turbine work..i stink at math so i have to keep a few links and programs they gave me(LiftCalc) to figure in the weights and load stress on rigging in certain critical lift plans..so i have to know the exact weights of materials when figuring in the load stress....

Carbon Steel Bar Grating - Direct Metals

As you can see,grating weighs MUCH less per square foot,a 1"x1/8" grating is 5.15# per Squ/Ft,where a 1" plate weighs 40.80# Squ/Ft..but they DO have a real strong load capacity but with much less weight,and welding the 1/4" plate about 50% to the grating inside the squares would make it a real strong table top.

Just thought i'd share some of this info while we are on the subject of plate and weight/strength
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Unread 10-26-2010, 07:33 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post
I've yet to run into where the safety man or any OSHA rules stating to keep a ground as close as possible to the weld...not saying it isn't there..just never heard of it or ran into that situation yet..
I don't think OSHA cares about where you clip your ground for most welding. I mentioned OSHA taking about the shangri la perfect world situation, where everthing can be welded on the flat, and everyone is wearing all the safety gear and never gets burned at all. The Ideal world where every rod spends a few hours in the oven and you always have the right tool for the job. Then theres the real world where you try to clip your ground to your work when you can and as close to where your welding for better arc quality.
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Unread 01-25-2011, 08:29 PM   #23
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Note the ground attached to the bar below the fire extinguisher, thats where it stays most all of the time!
nice table
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