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Unread 01-20-2014, 11:46 AM   #1
kjg26
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welding question

I'm currently planning a trailer build and had a couple questions about joint. Is it stronger too join a corner with 45 degree miters or T the square tubing and cap the open end? I plan on creating some sort of fish plate over whatever joint I decide to use as well as using part of that fish place mount the body

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Unread 01-20-2014, 12:07 PM   #2
AGDubyaJ
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use meitered joints... "Fish mouths" are not only the strongest joint, but also more aesthetically appealing.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 12:08 PM   #3
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Also, put a good bevel on all your joints, even if its thin wall.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 02:46 PM   #4
kjg26
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obviously none of this is even remotely to scale, but this will give my general idea.


Red boxes are the fish plates, they would go on the top of the frame. Smaller ones may go on the bottom, they wouldn't extend past the tubing as the top ones do.
The overlap on the top would allow for detachable tub that would let me use it as a flat bed or as a box/camper/expedition type trailer. I would gusset it down the inside of the main frame.


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Unread 01-21-2014, 05:16 AM   #5
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I'd put fillets in the verticals and groove the tops and bottoms. This looks like it should be light enough to be move into position so none need to be done anyway other than flat.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 05:21 AM   #6
kjg26
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Thoughts on the fish plates?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 07:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
Thoughts on the fish plates?
Not sure they're completely necessary... but wouldn't hurt I guess. What size material are you using? How big is this gonna be? How good are you with the welder?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 08:17 AM   #8
kjg26
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Learning to weld. Thinking 2x2 1/8 wall for the frame. Possibly 2x3 1/8 wall. I'm leaning towards 2x2
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Unread 01-21-2014, 08:41 AM   #9
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I'd go with something more stout myself but it's your trailer. What sort of welder do you have?

To address the above comment about groove welds being stronger than fillet welds... its apples and oranges that are being grown on the same tree. They're different welds, one for shear stress and another for tension/compression, both can be made with the same strength filler metal. Neither is purely stronger.

... and a sketch of how I would propose the corners be welded. Leave the outside corner edges exposed, blunted - not pointed, making a nice little corner to lay a weld in. The top and bottoms can be butted up and grooved with a grinder wheel before welding. (the artsy part of my brain doesn't work well.. can ya tell?)

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Unread 01-21-2014, 09:01 AM   #10
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Using a Hobart handler 140. Will either use flux .30 wire or solid core with c25. This will be a learning process for me. I will be doing plenty of practice prior. Can you explain the groove weld. Im with you on the outside corner that makes sense.

This will be a light duty trailer for camping. I'm open to any and all suggestions. What size tubing would you recommend?
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Unread 01-21-2014, 11:48 AM   #11
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Those 45deg mitered ends provide more weld surface than a 90deg joint.

For a simple trailer, I don't think it really matters though. Either joint would be plenty strong. I don't know as I'd even bother with fishplating the joints.

Best bet would be to examine a few different sizes of trailers... see what materials/joints are used. It's alot easier to "copy" a sound design, than to reinvent the wheel.
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:47 PM   #12
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I'm just concerned that much thicker material may not weldwell with the 140. I guess practice will tell. Once I get a replacement part for my chop saw I will start playing with the two by two by 1 /8 tubing. May go up to 2.5x2.5 x 1/8 of 3/16
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Unread 01-21-2014, 05:24 PM   #13
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The 140 should do fine with 3/16".
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Unread 01-21-2014, 05:31 PM   #14
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Ok. So... 2x2, 2.5x2.5, 2x3, or 3x3? I'll take the advice on 3/16 wall. I want to have an adjustable length tongue as well as a receiver in the rear. I want to be able to swap lunette ring, multi axis and ball couple as is necessitated
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Unread 01-21-2014, 06:04 PM   #15
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I'd probably use 2x3x3/16". For the grooves you just butt the joint together, tack them, then run the grinder wheel down the joint making about a 1/8" deep groove. The heat will melt in the last 1/16", but be careful not to move too slow as it can melt clear through then you're stuck patching.
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