I posted this in an old thread on a 220v vs 110v machine.......It gets right to the point..........axle tube's thickness is beyond a 110v's required limit...
As was already said,a 110v machine will push it to it's limits and borderline that "maybe" it'll work and hold welding 1/4" without a preheat.
once you start gettin into alot fab work on the Jeep you'll runnin into alot heavier things to weld than a 110v machine is designed for..heavy suspension parts,roll cages,heavy bumpers and rock gards,motor mounts if swapping out for more power..etc etc.
A 220v machine is just so much more versatile and suitable for Jeep mods and repairs than a 110v,there wont be anything on a Jeep your working that a 220v can;t handle without question,from thin sheetmetal to heavy axle tubes and chunks.
Now a days there really isn't that much of a price difference in my opinion between a 110v vs 220v to justify going with a 110v unless 110v power is your only option,but that would be a rare occasion unless you live in an apartment and have no 220v dryer plug.
You'll most likely hear/see some people say"i welded my whole rig up with a 110v 140 amp machine and its held up to the worst abuse in the world!"...that's all cool and i'm glad it held up,but it still doesn't hide the fact that a 110v machine was put to it's limits and overworked at max settings to do the job,plus it doesn't hide the fact that it may of made a nice looking weld but the fact is it still aint hot enough to do a confident sufficeint weld on thicker materials.
The manufacturers recommend the maximum thickness of steel for the machine not for the fact it can't get a complete fusion in every pass,but for the fact it isn't hot enough of a machine to sufficeintly penetrate that thickness.this is where most don't understand...i could weld up a 1" thick plate with a 110v and cut it and it'll show a solid complete fused weld,,but do a bend test on it and see what happens because it didn't penetrate because of the heat sink the bigger steel caused and sucked the heat from the weld..
Bottom line is..when picking a weld machine for a purpose..the general rule of thumb is to purchase one that is designed to handle more than what you ever plan to use it for,for the fact you won't have to geuss if it will hold,plus you won't be working the machine at it's limits and seriously shortening the life span of the machine.
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^ This man speaks the truth. I am 4 linking my Jeep, and purchased a 220v welder because of it. I know my old 110v machine could have welded all the brackets on, but I didn't feel comfortable doing so. If it was a trail rig, I probably would have used the 110v. Since it does see street time though, I wondered what would happen if one of the important brackets came off around 65mph. I didn't want to find out, so I got a 220v machine.
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Dake, I know you just asked this question over in my build thread. I didn't know why you were asking until I found this. Like I said over there, I've welded nearly everything on my rig with my Lincoln 140, but I did just as many suggested here when it came to my axle work. I tacked everything in place and had my local shop finish it up. The only thing attached to my axle that I fully welded myself is probably one of the greatest stress points however - the traction bar mount. The only reason for that was it was the middle of the night and I wanted it done. So far, so good, it has held up very well. I did pre-heat it, made multiple passes, and used a little post-heating/wrapping in old welding gloves to help control the heat sink action a bit.
If I had any patience, everything on my axle would have been done with a larger machine. Hopefully, I'll have a 211 by the time 2014 gets here.
Absolutely, spring plates can be sufficiently welded with a quality 140a class machine. However, the real question should be whether the operator has the skill and abilities to be welding axle brackets with a 140a MIG...