Welder suitable to weld a truss? - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Fabrication Shop > Welder suitable to weld a truss?

The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!The Ruffstuff NOT Universal 4 Link Kit!

Reply
Unread 10-22-2015, 04:25 PM   #1
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Welder suitable to weld a truss?

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone who's welded a truss up to the Dana 30 could, give me a few tips as far as the welder they used and material. Sorry I know this is the jeep forum, but having said that I don't see who better to ask. I wanna gusset the c's and I also wanna truss and skid the rear too. I believe the front diff and C's are cast iron and the rear diff is aluminum. But I'm unsure what exactly the axle tubes are made from. Probably a dumb question, but I have to ask lol. I was thinking of using 3/16" for the truss. But I'm just a lil confused on what kind of steel to use, mild, carbon, hot rolled etc. Here is a couple of the welders I was thinking of:
http://m.northerntool.com/products/s...?hotline=false
http://m.northerntool.com/products/s...?hotline=false
Those are just a couple that I've seen. I would like to keep the price under $300 or so but the two I've posted would be a better price if I can use them.
I've got a few practice projects I gotta do before I even think about touching my axle but the MAIN reason I'm buying the welder is to make a truss.
Any help steering me in the right direction for a compatible welder for the job and maybe proper material would be greatly appreciated. Thanks fellows.

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more

LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-22-2015, 04:59 PM   #2
WJ297
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 139
The stick welder is your better option since I would never weld a truss with a 90 amp 110 volt welder. As far as material goes 3/16 or 1/4" would be fine I used just mild steel for mine. Also the axle C is cast steel not cast iron so you can actually weld to it without needed expensive equipment. PS I say you get a Lincoln 180hd it's what I have and absolutely love it.
WJ297 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-22-2015, 06:16 PM   #3
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ297
The stick welder is your better option since I would never weld a truss with a 90 amp 110 volt welder. As far as material goes 3/16 or 1/4" would be fine I used just mild steel for mine. Also the axle C is cast steel not cast iron so you can actually weld to it without needed expensive equipment. PS I say you get a Lincoln 180hd it's what I have and absolutely love it.
.
Cool, I was thinking the one was a lil small for the job but one of the ppl in the reviews claimed to weld 3/8" steel with it. Cast steel eh! Cool, what about the diff? Did you have problems welding to it? I think I saw a few trusses on other axles that weren't actually welded to the diff, could be wrong though. I'm gunna go find out what I can about a Lincoln 180hd now. Thank you

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-22-2015, 06:30 PM   #4
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Hey if you don't mind, just to be clear, this is the one you're talking about
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...515-1/e740.pdf
seems nice I was hoping to be able to use more of a cheaper beginner ( no gas lol) welder, but that would definitely be able to be used for a lot

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-22-2015, 09:30 PM   #5
cojab
Registered User
1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: , Colorado
Posts: 1,317
You mentioned the rear diff being aluminum. Some were but not many as I recall. Put a magnet to it to see.
I bought a Hobart 187 Handler and it does pretty much anything you will need to do on a Jeep. I agree though, if sticking to your $300 price point, get a stick welder.
cojab is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-23-2015, 02:17 AM   #6
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by cojab
You mentioned the rear diff being aluminum. Some were but not many as I recall. Put a magnet to it to see. I bought a Hobart 187 Handler and it does pretty much anything you will need to do on a Jeep. I agree though, if sticking to your $300 price point, get a stick welder.
Hey thanks, my rear diff is aluminum I have QD (44a). The Hobart handler 187 (I actually looked at the the 190) is nice as well. Seems to be Hobarts equivalent to Lincoln's 180hd. After looking at those two, I saw lincoln has the 140hd which seems spec wise very close to their 180hd model, and it can still be used with gas like the 180hd. Also hobart has a handler 140 with very similar specs to the 140hd. I think either one of these should be good. What do you guys think? Another thing, in the specs for a lot of the mig welders it says they weld: steel, stainless, aluminum. In the stick welder specs it says they weld: steel, stainless, cast iron, hard surfacing- or - carbon, low alloy stainless, cast iron. So it seems I just may need two different welders to do the job? Just trying to make sure I buy the right stuff first time around, mostly cause I'm married and I'd like to keep it that way lol, and also for certain things I like to know I got the proper equipment, so when I start messing stuff up I know for sure it's my fault thanks for your guys help.

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-23-2015, 06:20 AM   #7
Shadownwpa
Registered User
1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Meadville, Pa
Posts: 1,238
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeakinOil View Post
Hey thanks, my rear diff is aluminum ... So it seems I just may need two different welders to do the job?
No. Just get the mig, you'll need to change the wire and setup when you go to weld the aluminum... the two are not compatible. You'll need an aluminum section bolted to your truss if you choose to tie it in.
__________________
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/shadownwpa-91ish-yj-build-thread-1857154/
Shadownwpa is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-23-2015, 12:19 PM   #8
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadownwpa
No. Just get the mig, you'll need to change the wire and setup when you go to weld the aluminum... the two are not compatible. You'll need an aluminum section bolted to your truss if you choose to tie it in.
Ok I get what you're saying, I like that. Another idea I had is to make the truss go from tube to tube over the Pumpkin, tightly touching it on top where the ball joint goes, but not welded to it. Then there would be three holes through it, where the ball joint bolts in. And then the a-arm spacer would be 3/16" taller than if the truss wasn't there. Which I don't see as a problem. I like both ideas though. Any thoughts to which would be better? Thanks guys

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-23-2015, 06:23 PM   #9
WJ297
Registered User
2000 WJ 
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 139
I didn't weld my my truss to the pumpkin. I didn't feel it was necessary.
WJ297 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-24-2015, 12:29 AM   #10
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by WJ297
I didn't weld my my truss to the pumpkin. I didn't feel it was necessary.
Cool thanks for all your guys opinions I was having a lot of trouble trying to figure out what welder I need to get. I'm leaning towards the Hobart handler 140 right now. I think it should do good for the truss and a rock sliders my first three welding projects once I start hookin up the WJ. Thanks again

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-28-2015, 06:12 PM   #11
rjbruzan
Moderator
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lake in the Hills, illinois
Posts: 2,450
A safe way to figure what is needed is by the thickness you are trying to weld. 1 amp per 1000th. 3/16th is about .180 or 180 thousandths. So a 180 amp would be what you are looking for. The 140 MIGHT be enough if the welded area was preheated and properly welded. Maybe. But probably not. Better to get a machine that will do the job you are looking to perform. Spend some time looking at the videos at Welding tips and tricks.com. He explains MIG very well.

Ron
__________________
Of all the things Ive lost
The one I miss most is my mind

Its like a fart in a windstorm
It smells good but thats about it

Registered Six Offender
Home of the Buzzin Half Dozen
rjbruzan is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-29-2015, 12:12 AM   #12
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbruzan
A safe way to figure what is needed is by the thickness you are trying to weld. 1 amp per 1000th. 3/16th is about .180 or 180 thousandths. So a 180 amp would be what you are looking for. The 140 MIGHT be enough if the welded area was preheated and properly welded. Maybe. But probably not. Better to get a machine that will do the job you are looking to perform. Spend some time looking at the videos at Welding tips and tricks.com. He explains MIG very well. Ron
What you're saying sucks, by a couple hundred dollars but it seems as though I don't have a option. Except maybe the stick welder, as it's 200amps? I was thinking I actually need to transfer as little heat to the axle as possible when I weld it so as to prevent warping. On other threads I've read ppl recommend welding only a inch at a time to prevent warping. So pre-heating it is a bad idea no? Also I'm gunna sleeve, and I was thinking to install the sleeves first to help prevent any warping of the tubes. But would this be a kinda double negative or whatever? cause putting the sleeves in would pretty much make the axle tubes thicker, and therefore absorb more heat, and take more to get a proper weld then if the sleeves weren't installed yet? I've watched a few of those videos at welding tips and tricks before. Gunna have to go back and check it out now that I know more what I'm looking for. Thanks If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-29-2015, 09:11 AM   #13
rjbruzan
Moderator
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lake in the Hills, illinois
Posts: 2,450
Leaky
You are correct in all your assumptions. The reason they can weld short pieces is their machine is powerful, it gets great penetration immediately. As for stick welding it requires lots more practice and skill than MIG. If you have a machine like the 140 which is great for sheet metal and being portable you will need a heavier machine for the large stuff.


Ron
__________________
Of all the things Ive lost
The one I miss most is my mind

Its like a fart in a windstorm
It smells good but thats about it

Registered Six Offender
Home of the Buzzin Half Dozen
rjbruzan is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-29-2015, 01:46 PM   #14
LeakinOil
Registered User
2004 WJ 
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 200
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjbruzan
Leaky You are correct in all your assumptions. The reason they can weld short pieces is their machine is powerful, it gets great penetration immediately. As for stick welding it requires lots more practice and skill than MIG. If you have a machine like the 140 which is great for sheet metal and being portable you will need a heavier machine for the large stuff. Ron
Great thanks for clearing those things up for me. I figured stick welding is a more crude way to weld and would take a lot of practice. I plan to get tubing as close to the axle tubes as I can get, to practice welding whatever I'm gunna make the truss out of to it, and won't actually touch the axle until I can put down a good weld on the materials. I'm doing front and back so I think it's worth the practice. Looks like I'm gunna get the Hobart or Lincoln 180 model. Extra cost just means I'm gunna have to wait longer to get it.
Thanks for all your help fellows.

If it ain't broke.....Try to break it.....And if it breaks.....Then fix it to where it don't break no more
LeakinOil is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 10-29-2015, 02:26 PM   #15
rjbruzan
Moderator
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Lake in the Hills, illinois
Posts: 2,450
Good thinkin
__________________
Of all the things Ive lost
The one I miss most is my mind

Its like a fart in a windstorm
It smells good but thats about it

Registered Six Offender
Home of the Buzzin Half Dozen
rjbruzan is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.

Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools






Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.