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Unread 11-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #1
Gabe
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Trailer modification question.

I have this trailer....


I want to remove the factory tongue to make it longer so that I can occasionally load a kayak on it. the trailer is 4' long, and the current tongue is about 2.5'.



The red part is 2.5"x2.5" square tubing. The blue part is 2"x2".

I want to be able to remove the blue part for easier storage since it will be about 6' long and won't fit in my garage. Each line on the tubing represents 1'. The blue tube will slide a foot deep into the red tube, and be bolted with two bolts.

My dilemma: Should I use 1/4" thick and grind the weld seam in the red tube for a tight fit?

Or,should I go with 3/16" and deal with the slop?

I'm worried that with temp changes, the 1/4" might be too hard to slip in and out for storage as time goes by. Help!




Found this on another forum. This is 3/16", 2x2 into 2.5x2.5. Notice the amount of slop. Is this acceptable? Would it rattle while being pulled?




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Unread 11-04-2013, 10:58 PM   #2
AtTheHelm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe
I have this trailer.... I want to remove the factory tongue to make it longer so that I can occasionally load a kayak on it. the trailer is 4' long, and the current tongue is about 2.5'. The red part is 2.5"x2.5" square tubing. The blue part is 2"x2". I want to be able to remove the blue part for easier storage since it will be about 6' long and won't fit in my garage. Each line on the tubing represents 1'. The blue tube will slide a foot deep into the red tube, and be bolted with two bolts. My dilemma: Should I use 1/4" thick and grind the weld seam in the red tube for a tight fit? Or,should I go with 3/16" and deal with the slop? I'm worried that with temp changes, the 1/4" might be too hard to slip in and out for storage as time goes by. Help! Found this on another forum. This is 3/16", 2x2 into 2.5x2.5. Notice the amount of slop. Is this acceptable? Would it rattle while being pulled?
I'm not sure that 2x2 will easily slide into 2.5x2.5x1/4" even with the flash weld removed. Btw how did you plan on removing 12" of internal weld seam? A way around that would be to grind a keyway into the smaller tube that matches up with the weld seam on the bigger tube.
I've never tried sliding those two sizes together, but I will say this: i build front receivers/recovery systems for the KK and I have to use a big sledge to press the 2.5 receiver tube into 3x3x1/4" tube. I have the flash weld on the backside so I'm not fighting that too.
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Unread 11-11-2013, 11:37 AM   #3
R3dRid3r
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You might want to ask Jeff Scherb his build thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bo...l#post17607706

or in this thread started by ArmyRN but a number of contributors post in it:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...hread-1180456/

all the Best!

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Unread 11-12-2013, 08:11 AM   #4
jscherb
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The main worry I'd have is any extra leverage that long tongue could exert on the bolts that hold the tongue to the crossmembers. In another thread someone reported that the bolts on the middle crossmember of a stock HF trailer pulled through the metal of the crossmember. That metal isn't too thick, so if you do anything to lengthen the tongue, I'd recommend you reinforce the crossmembers that the tongue bolts to.
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Unread 11-12-2013, 10:47 AM   #5
JKBender
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I would suggest getting yourself the folding trailer from HF, or copying the folding tong design. A folding a-frame design will be far stronger than what you are considering. Also, the actual tube on the trailer you have is not a 2.5" square tube but rather a fabricated c-channel with welded plates every foot or so.
thcaautlnl.jpg

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Unread 11-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #6
strvger01
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3/16" will be fine, if you use it to replace the original thin channel tongue:
use the 3/16", 2.5x2.5 sq tubing and run it from the back of the trailer frame to about 18"-24" past the front frame of the trailer. then you can use your slip-in 2x2x3/16" tubing as you wish. anchoring the 2.5x2.5" sq. at the rear, center and front cross members will make your trailer much more stable for both the loads and for towing it. i learned the hard way many years ago that the original thin channel running only half way down the bed length will eventually fail.
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Unread 11-15-2013, 07:43 AM   #7
Gabe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
3/16" will be fine, if you use it to replace the original thin channel tongue:
use the 3/16", 2.5x2.5 sq tubing and run it from the back of the trailer frame to about 18"-24" past the front frame of the trailer. then you can use your slip-in 2x2x3/16" tubing as you wish. anchoring the 2.5x2.5" sq. at the rear, center and front cross members will make your trailer much more stable for both the loads and for towing it. i learned the hard way many years ago that the original thin channel running only half way down the bed length will eventually fail.
If I insert the 2" tubing 1' deep into the 2.5", would that give it enough strength?
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Unread 11-15-2013, 08:07 AM   #8
Gabe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
The main worry I'd have is any extra leverage that long tongue could exert on the bolts that hold the tongue to the crossmembers. In another thread someone reported that the bolts on the middle crossmember of a stock HF trailer pulled through the metal of the crossmember. That metal isn't too thick, so if you do anything to lengthen the tongue, I'd recommend you reinforce the crossmembers that the tongue bolts to.
Link please?

Edit: NVM, found it. Reading it now.


Okay, in response to the cross member breaking at the holes:

I will take your advice and also attach it to the rear crossmember. I think I might weld an angle bracket to the 2.5" and then to the trailer's crossmembers. I'll see if it can be done without bolts. I won't be putting this trailer through the stress like the other guy who broke the crossmembers. This will serve only to carry two ~40lb kayaks to and from the launch site. No offroading, no trails. After sitting for 3 or 4 hours in the sun with numb legs, It's hard to lift the kayak by myself onto the rollbars of my jeep on 35s and 3.5 lift.
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Unread 11-15-2013, 09:04 AM   #9
strvger01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabe View Post
If I insert the 2" tubing 1' deep into the 2.5", would that give it enough strength?

more than enough as long as your not hauling more than 1,000lbs or so. i was hauling about 800+lbs with mine and no problems at all.
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Unread 11-15-2013, 09:09 AM   #10
fang_x
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why dont you just strap the kayak to the roof of your jeep?
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Unread 11-15-2013, 09:58 AM   #11
Gabe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fang_x View Post
why dont you just strap the kayak to the roof of your jeep?
After sitting for 3 or 4 hours in the sun with numb legs, It's hard to lift the kayak by myself onto the rollbars of my jeep on 35s and 3.5 lift.

I have to take the soft top down so the kayak doesn't damage the bows, and so it can sit on the rollbar and windshield. It's tough to do it on my own. With a trailer, I don't have to lift the kayak so high. At night, I can leave the kayak loaded on the trailer and just hook it up the next morning and go.
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Unread 12-28-2013, 01:46 PM   #12
Bobbyfullen
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You will love having the trailer for your kayaks.I built mine last year and it works great! Plus you can use it with other vehicles !
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Unread 12-29-2013, 04:27 PM   #13
BESRK
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So.. did this happen yet?


I'd probably just use a piece of 18" receiver tube as the new trailer tongue. That would be plenty strong, already have the seam flattened, and already have the hole for a hitch pin.
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