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post #76 of 206 Old 04-09-2013, 07:53 AM
responder
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That sucks! Any idea as to how long that will take?

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post #77 of 206 Old 04-09-2013, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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That sucks! Any idea as to how long that will take?
They will have it tomorrow. My guess is they will figure it out on thursday and send it back out. Early next week is my hope.

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post #78 of 206 Old 04-11-2013, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Controller box being sent out tomorrow.....doesn't sound like it was any of my wiring...thankfully. Blown breakout board, 5v power supply and fuse. All replaced and back in business. Hopefully last of my issues....ugh...

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post #79 of 206 Old 04-18-2013, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Calling all CNC guru's....


Here is two cuts. Need some input. Seems to look ok....but want some other opinions.

First one:

1/8" material
0.8 torch height
50ipm feed rate
No dross clean up











Second one:

3/16" material
.08 torch height
25ipm feed rate
some dross chip off, but no sanding/finish work





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post #80 of 206 Old 04-18-2013, 09:22 PM
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The 3/16" appears to have "low speed dross". What Plasma Cutter/Amperage are you cutting with? 25ipm seems pretty slow for 3/16".

I cut 3/16" at 45amps.. 70ipm. That's with a Hypertherm 1250/Duramax Torch upgrade.

Kind of difficult to tell in the pics but doesn't look like there's a lot of deflection angle in the edge.. which is good.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #81 of 206 Old 04-19-2013, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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The 3/16" appears to have "low speed dross". What Plasma Cutter/Amperage are you cutting with? 25ipm seems pretty slow for 3/16".

I cut 3/16" at 45amps.. 70ipm. That's with a Hypertherm 1250/Duramax Torch upgrade.

Kind of difficult to tell in the pics but doesn't look like there's a lot of deflection angle in the edge.. which is good.

Thanks for the input Eddie !


These settings were just a guess so I really had no clue other than the "default" in the test gcode was at 100ipm. I manually over rode them at various levels...

The plasma cutter is an import 80A cutter. Yes, I know...but I needed something to get the table going, and I needed to pay for a vacation coming in may...so had to shelf the hypertherm purchase until the savings account comes out of coma.

With that said....the cutter was on 50amps I believe. The 3/16" I will say was with a "standard" 1.5mm tip on the cutter and I replaced it with a 1.1mm finer tip and cut the 1/8". I ran out of time, so I didn't get to try the finer tip on the 3/16".

After reading the cut charts for hypertherms...I think I may be a bit far off the metal as well. So I will probably drop it down to .06 and see how that works. That may allow a higher voltage to speed up just a bit. Pierce height seems to be ok at .125 for both thicknesses. I cut probably 30 of those 4x4 squares with a 1" hole in the middle of each with no significant wear on the tip.

More trial and error tonight...

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post #82 of 206 Old 04-19-2013, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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Ok...well, I'm getting closer. I didn't get any pics, but 70ipm at 50amps was just about perfect on 1/8". Almost zero dross on straight lines and minimal on anything curved.

I didn't have any more 3/16" so I'll have to wait till monday for that.

When I was having my stuff cut by the local shop and started doing some designing in cad to have them cut, they made a point to tell me to avoid spline fitting things. Now I know why. Looks like **** when it's cut. My question to that would be....can you "join" the lines and remove the line intersection points to avoid all the stop/go on curves with things ofmultiple points ? I've noticed it mostly on text curves.

Anyway...so far, havin fun.

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post #83 of 206 Old 04-20-2013, 05:57 AM
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I'm not sure if I'm tracking on the last post?.. Are you saying the torch "stops" at all line intersections?

When everything is adjusted correctly, the entire process should be pretty smooth. I cut pretty detailed stuff quite often. This is where all the driver settings come into play.. straightline cut speed, max arc feedrate (set at about 60%-70% of the straightline speed, acceleration/deceleration (going into and coming out of corners...etc.

You're table has an Automatic Torch Height Controller correct? If so, the trick will be to get everything adjusted so that the torch doesn't dive into the material while cutting fine details.

One thing I would suggest, make a spreadsheet with all the settings. That will allow you to make detailed changes (preferable one at a time) to zero in on the perfect setup.

My spreadsheet is set up by materail type/thickness. It's then broken down into Amperage. After that, it lists Pierce Height, Cut Height, Voltage, Dwell Time, Pierce Delay, Sensing Delay (auto height control)... etc.

I also "Save" each Setup File in the computer. That way, all I have to do, is click on the File (ie.. 3/16" With 40amp Shielded Nozzle) and it's all set up for cutting 3/16" with that nozzle.. all the settings will be in place automatically.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #84 of 206 Old 04-20-2013, 04:11 PM Thread Starter
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Still fine tuning....but figured id make something useful of the test runs






plasmashocktab.jpg

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post #85 of 206 Old 04-21-2013, 07:02 AM
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Still fine tuning....but figured id make something useful of the test runs
Getting close! I like it.
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post #86 of 206 Old 04-21-2013, 02:31 PM
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If you're married, wait till your wife sees what's possible with the table.. patio furniture, picture frames, wall hangings, lawn art, garden utensils, garden hose reel, coat racks, key hangers, clothes hangers, dish racks, wine racks, BBQ stuff, bed frames, shelving, trellises, black iron gates, mail boxes, mail box numbers, name plates, "Home Sweet Home" signs..etc.

I'm pretty good about maximizing material on the plasma table. Even so, I still turn in 1500-2000lbs of scrap per month.. or more.

'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..



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post #87 of 206 Old 04-21-2013, 05:28 PM
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If you're married, wait till your wife sees what's possible with the table.. patio furniture, picture frames, wall hangings, lawn art, garden utensils, garden hose reel, coat racks, key hangers, clothes hangers, dish racks, wine racks, BBQ stuff, bed frames, shelving, trellises, black iron gates, mail boxes, mail box numbers, name plates, "Home Sweet Home" signs..etc.

I'm pretty good about maximizing material on the plasma table. Even so, I still turn in 1500-2000lbs of scrap per month.. or more.
I need to show this to my wife. I'd love to put a table in the garage.

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post #88 of 206 Old 04-21-2013, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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I need to show this to my wife. I'd love to put a table in the garage.

My girlfriend saw the plasmacam demo video they send out in there packet and immedietly asked why I hadnt bought one yet ordered the next day

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post #89 of 206 Old 04-21-2013, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomb Raider
Ok...well, I'm getting closer. I didn't get any pics, but 70ipm at 50amps was just about perfect on 1/8". Almost zero dross on straight lines and minimal on anything curved.

I didn't have any more 3/16" so I'll have to wait till monday for that.

When I was having my stuff cut by the local shop and started doing some designing in cad to have them cut, they made a point to tell me to avoid spline fitting things. Now I know why. Looks like **** when it's cut. My question to that would be....can you "join" the lines and remove the line intersection points to avoid all the stop/go on curves with things ofmultiple points ? I've noticed it mostly on text curves.

Anyway...so far, havin fun.
When you draw it up in cad don't you have to make it a solid object before you can put in into the program? At school for the mill we have to make objects solid before we put it in to featurecam. For text you have to explode it first then region and the after that extrude.


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post #90 of 206 Old 04-22-2013, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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When you draw it up in cad don't you have to make it a solid object before you can put in into the program? At school for the mill we have to make objects solid before we put it in to featurecam. For text you have to explode it first then region and the after that extrude.

My guess is in your case, your actually making a 3 dimensional part. That's not the case when cutting plate on plasma. It's only cutting on a 2d plane (x and y). The Z axis is for arc control.


With that said, I overlooked my zaxis when setting the torch and noticed on saturday that it was not square to the plate. Gonna fix that tonight. Also noticed that my chinese inport cutter with it's high frequency start is knocking the zaxis offline after a few pierces, and will knock the controller box offline if above 60amps. Ordering a hypertherm today....

Going to cut a few bumper parts this week as they are only straight lines and one pierce per part.....hopefully the hypertherm will be here by the weekend.

I like to build stuff. Want to know what I build, you can google it
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