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Unread 09-24-2013, 09:53 PM   #151
Rubicon0311
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No doubt he has an amazing amount of talent , but you wont meet a more humble, genuine person anywhere else .
Never met the man, but I'm sure that having a beer with him would be quite the experience. So much knowledge.

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Unread 09-24-2013, 10:17 PM   #152
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Never met the man, but I'm sure that having a beer with him would be quite the experience. So much knowledge.
Absolutely , I have learned a lot in the few times I have been by his shop and work . Truly a master of his craft .
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Unread 09-25-2013, 05:08 PM   #153
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Just found your thread thanks to someone over on another thread and just read through the whole thing. I was looking for the pics of the hitch and as nice as it is, your tub looks awesome. All I can say is WOW! I am melting like butter over that entire job. All that you did and what they did with the paint. I'll say it again, WOW! I can see why you were speechless. Great job all around.
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Unread 09-26-2013, 08:09 PM   #154
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Just found your thread thanks to someone over on another thread and just read through the whole thing. I was looking for the pics of the hitch and as nice as it is, your tub looks awesome. All I can say is WOW! I am melting like butter over that entire job. All that you did and what they did with the paint. I'll say it again, WOW! I can see why you were speechless. Great job all around.
Thanks for the kind words . The trailer has taken me much longer to finish than I thought , but the end result is well worth it . If you have any questions on the hitch feel free to ask .
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Unread 09-27-2013, 08:21 AM   #155
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I'd still like to learn more about the specifications and manufacturing methods for the gspup hitch but I also posted what others thought of the design in this thread:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...l#post16353497

and JScherb did an evaluation that I believe is important, from a safety perspective, for all who are running this rig. It is post 919 in the thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
There would be stress on the tabs, but if they're an appropriate thickness and either welded properly or better yet cut directly out of a single piece of square tubing, I wouldn't worry too much about them.

I would be concerned about how the parts are held together with the bolts. Here's what I see in the photo:



It's a bolt through holes in the tabs and a hole in the center block. There is nothing to relieve rotational stress on the nut or prevent it from loosening, so it will loosen and fall off at some point.

A better way to do it would be to add washers for some relief from the rotational stress, and absolutely the nut must be captive in some way, probably easiest would be a cotter pin similar to how an axle nut is secured:



Done as in the above photo, the nut would be tightened just to the point of slight friction on the joint, just like a trailer axle nut, to allow rotation of the parts.

Even better would be to do the washers and the cotter pin, but put a sleeve through the hole that the bolt could also go through. The sleeve would be slightly longer than the outside dimension across the tabs, so the bolt could be snugged down against the sleeve without binding against the tabs, thus providing very free motion. The sleeves would also greatly reduce wear on the bolts, reducing the possibility that they might wear enough to break.



All of this applies equally well to the center bolt,which provides rotation around the axis of the receiver. I do see a washer there but all towing force is going to be working at unscrewing the nut that must be on the other end of that bolt. This one really needs a sleeve and a cotter pin. I wonder how they would get the cotter pin in there since the nut must be inside the receiver?



Without at least all of the nuts being captive with something like cotter pins, this design is unsafe. Movement of the coupler will work to loosen the nuts.

Other than that, the basic design would work, although to uncouple the trailer you'd have to pull the shaft out of your receiver (or unbolt one of the joints?). Might sometimes be a challenge to recouple, you have to slide the coupler into your receiver rather than just backing under the trailer coupler and dropping it in place on the receiver side of the coupler.
John
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:26 AM   #156
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In reality a simple pintle hook with some mods is a better design.
If you have onboard air then this is the ticket, find it of an old trailer

http://www.anythingtruck.com/product/370-PH210RA11.html
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Unread 09-30-2013, 04:25 PM   #157
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Everything is painted and lined . I plan on picking it up this week and getting it home . I have to go to NYC for a few weeks and then I will get back to putting the trailer back together .
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Unread 09-30-2013, 05:13 PM   #158
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Originally Posted by Deuskid View Post
it looks like you fabbed 2 solid center pieces in the second picture but the hitch only requires one? Is that true or am I missing something?

Also, is the square tubing 2" outside diameter with 1/4" walls?

Thanks,

john
I made two while I had access to a monster drill press . The tubing is 2" 1/4" walls and the knuckle is 1-1/2 ".

Below in the picture with the red circle the question is how is the nut secured ? I welded it into a piece of c channel to keep it square and then welded it in place inside the tongue . Then I used red loc tite to hold the bolt in place once I had tightened up . The notched section is cut from one piece of tubing . With the size of the hardware used and the thickness of the material I dont see much chance of it failing . I will update this after I go on the next big trip . I will be keeping an eye on the bolts , but I may re engineer it a little and add cotter pins for additional peace of mind .

Its an amazingly simple design but makes no noise . I think a pintle hitch is a great design and it has certainly proven itself over the years . The only reason I didnt run a pintle is that I wanted a quiet hitch for the long trips we tend to take .
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Unread 10-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #159
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Hendrix wasnt happy with the instagramish feel of the last pics so he sent these .








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Unread 10-03-2013, 08:17 AM   #160
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Trailer porn....
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Unread 10-03-2013, 09:51 AM   #161
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Trailer porn....
Amen
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Unread 10-05-2013, 04:53 AM   #162
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Gorgeous job!

How long did your tub end up being? I'm thinking a Dinoot trailer tonneau cover could be the perfect finishing touch...



It clamps on to the tub rim just like most pickup tonneaus do, no drilling on your beautiful paint job.

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Unread 10-06-2013, 08:04 PM   #163
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Trailer porn....

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobdog View Post
Amen
Hendrix has some serious talent ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by jscherb View Post
Gorgeous job!

How long did your tub end up being? I'm thinking a Dinoot trailer tonneau cover could be the perfect finishing touch...



It clamps on to the tub rim just like most pickup tonneaus do, no drilling on your beautiful paint job.

The tub is wider than it is long ! As I recall its somewhere near 59" wide and 55" long .Thats a nice looking tonneau , but I want something more secure for our trips . The next fab work will be an aluminum cover with flush mount locks . I will post the exact measurements when I pull dimensions for the tonneau . And last but not least , thanks for the kind words ... even more so considering all that you have built .



The tub is in its temporary home until I get back and repaint the frame .
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Unread 10-28-2013, 08:00 PM   #164
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Spring under with one 35 and one 235/75

Spring under with both 35s installed . At this point I was 3" low from sitting even with the LJ .

Torn down and ready for the axle flip . I had the axle built with no crown for this very reason .

Spring over with the 35s left me a 1/2 " to high with the shackles in the shortest position .

The plan is to make new shackle mounts and weld them to the top of the frame . This will allow for longer shackles and a better angle . The other bonus is that it will allow for more height adjustment and this will allow the trailer to be dead level with the LJ . There ya have it the little trailer has grown up to be the Angry trailer on 35s .
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Unread 10-29-2013, 07:54 PM   #165
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I ended up moving the shackle mount to the top of the frame . It went from having 3/4" of clearance between the spring eye and the shackle mount to over 2" . This will allow for final tuning depending on weight by just adding or subtracting some length from the shackles .

New shackle mount material .

Cut to length and cleaned up .

Squared up and tacked in place .

Welded up and ready for the bushings to go in once it cools down . Tomorrow morning I am off to get shackle material and then the tub will get mounted for hopefully the last time .
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