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Unread 08-14-2010, 10:33 AM   #31
Terrain Twister
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
It looks great... but I wonder how much strength you give up in the center by having the light cutouts nearly the full height of the bumper.
If you look at the factory cross member I'd say none. It's only one sided and I believe he's using thicker material than the factory did. If anything, I'd venture to say it's stronger.

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Unread 08-15-2010, 02:02 PM   #32
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boodyrider View Post
It looks great... but I wonder how much strength you give up in the center by having the light cutouts nearly the full height of the bumper.
Not much at all. It's still 3/16 thick rectangular tubing and the holes are only cut on one side. I believe it's much stronger than the thin stock crossmember which is entirely open on one side. I may have lost some strength that could have been retained by not installing the lights but I can't see it being an issue. The recovery points are centered in the frame rails so the center of the tube isn't seeing much stress if any in a recovery situation.

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Originally Posted by ImpactFabWorks View Post
I like that, It came out great!
Thanks man

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Originally Posted by MilitaryJK4455 View Post
Wanna help me and Doug do my front bumper? I have a stinger, winch plate, and winch to weld on and some shackle mounts to weld to my rear bumper.
Wish I could but right after i get back from vacation I have to start school full time again so I'll barely have time to work on my own haha
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Unread 08-16-2010, 06:43 PM   #33
solarpower
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looks good....however

it's not really a "crossmember" for the rear of a Jeep frame...it's more like a bumper support.I know that it does provide some lateral support for the rails...but minimal compared to what I have always considered a "crossmember"

The actual " rear crossmember" is just in front of the gas tank slightly rear of the axle between the frame rails. The only reason I even mention this is the exact placement and size of a rear crossmember on a frame like Jeep vehicles is very important...it affects the amount of frame twist it will allow, and provides true structural integrity to the frame and vehicle.

If you go look at a crossmeber on an old CJ you will notice that it's not very stout at all..the leaf springs affect the frame in a very different manner and in different places than a link set up.

Anyway looks really good, and should work great for your needs...I personally would have looked for 7 vertical LED lights for the bumper so I have could have a jeep grill at both ends.
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Unread 08-18-2010, 11:53 AM   #34
MO2500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarpower View Post
looks good....however

it's not really a "crossmember" for the rear of a Jeep frame...it's more like a bumper support.I know that it does provide some lateral support for the rails...but minimal compared to what I have always considered a "crossmember"

The actual " rear crossmember" is just in front of the gas tank slightly rear of the axle between the frame rails. The only reason I even mention this is the exact placement and size of a rear crossmember on a frame like Jeep vehicles is very important...it affects the amount of frame twist it will allow, and provides true structural integrity to the frame and vehicle.

If you go look at a crossmeber on an old CJ you will notice that it's not very stout at all..the leaf springs affect the frame in a very different manner and in different places than a link set up.

Anyway looks really good, and should work great for your needs...I personally would have looked for 7 vertical LED lights for the bumper so I have could have a jeep grill at both ends.
Interesting info

I can see what you mean because the stock "bumper support" didn't seem to be designed to be the main support for the frame. The crossmember infront of the gas tank, where the shocks mount to is more substantial. It's why i didn't have to fear the frame rails twisting out of position as soon as i cut the stock "bumper support" off.

However, I call it the rear crossmember and will continue to because that is still what aftermarket companies refer to it as
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Unread 11-18-2010, 07:33 PM   #35
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Very intriguing, since i've bought my LJ i've been considering doing something like this do the extreme rear overhand of the Unlimited. This looks just like what Ive wanted to do.
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Unread 11-18-2010, 07:58 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Jtrux View Post
Very intriguing, since i've bought my LJ i've been considering doing something like this do the extreme rear overhand of the Unlimited. This looks just like what Ive wanted to do.
Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions and I'd be happy to help out.

Forgot that I never posted a few better pics of the crossmember outside the garage. I'v found that it's really helped my departure angle. In a few of my recent wheeling trips I'v come down off ledges and rocks that easily would have caught a standard bumper and tire carrier and I don't even touch them with mine. Will be perfect once I stretch my wheelbase some.

Here's a few more recent pics




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Unread 11-18-2010, 08:59 PM   #37
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Looks very clean and streamlined, nice job, I like it!
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Unread 11-19-2010, 08:38 AM   #38
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Looks very clean and streamlined, nice job, I like it!
Thanks
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Unread 11-19-2010, 09:30 AM   #39
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Real good job dude. Came out very professional looking.
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Unread 11-19-2010, 01:01 PM   #40
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Real good job dude. Came out very professional looking.
Thanks man! I'm happy with the way it turned out. Hopefully I get to beat on it some this weekend.
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Unread 11-30-2010, 05:40 PM   #41
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as always nice work,as if i havent mentioned it before
wish i could play in the back ground of your wheeling pics too
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Unread 11-30-2010, 06:01 PM   #42
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as always nice work,as if i havent mentioned it before
wish i could play in the back ground of your wheeling pics too
Thanks Johnny

RC has a nice comp course to mess around on (i assume thats what your referring too?). It's incredible the traction you have on concrete. I can only imagine what a set of "sticky" comp tires could do.
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Unread 03-20-2011, 10:01 PM   #43
freeskier93
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I'm going to be doing something like this and was hoping you could give some more info or pics of the body mounts. You said you didn't fully box the body mount area, how is that with water and crap getting in the crossmember? Did you drill some drain holes in the bottom? A picture would be a great help!
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Unread 03-20-2011, 11:42 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by freeskier93 View Post
I'm going to be doing something like this and was hoping you could give some more info or pics of the body mounts. You said you didn't fully box the body mount area, how is that with water and crap getting in the crossmember? Did you drill some drain holes in the bottom? A picture would be a great help!
I did drill drain holes at the lowest points in the crossmember below the D-ring mounts. So far I'v just flushed stuff out of it after each wheeling trip much like I do with the frame. It had to be left open in that area to install and tighten the body mounts. I didn't really see an easy way to cap it off and make the crossmember water tight.

I think these pics are already in here but this is all I have right now. Let me know if you'd like me to try and get some more and what exactly you would like pics of.



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Unread 03-20-2011, 11:53 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500 View Post
I did drill drain holes at the lowest points in the crossmember below the D-ring mounts. So far I'v just flushed stuff out of it after each wheeling trip much like I do with the frame. It had to be left open in that area to install and tighten the body mounts. I didn't really see an easy way to cap it off and make the crossmember water tight.

I think these pics are already in here but this is all I have right now. Let me know if you'd like me to try and get some more and what exactly you would like pics of.
Thanks a ton, that first pic is perfect. I was just doing some measuring today and studying the stock crossmember and was a little stumped on that aspect.
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