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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~Advance Adapters SYE Kits

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Unread 08-30-2013, 07:03 AM   #1
zboss86
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tig newbee

I'm a Tig newbee. Tried joining some mild steel. Yeah, it's ugly... Believe it or not, I cleaned the metal, but obviously not enough.

What getting me is I'm burning crater along the top edge of the weld.




guess I'll keep on playing...

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Unread 08-30-2013, 05:57 PM   #2
squire_wj
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Your burning the top edge, which type of tungsten are you using and wjat size, what's your polarity? Also make sure your tungstin isn't getting contaminted. If you touch the filler metal to it you have to re sharpen it same goes if you touch the base metal.
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Unread 08-30-2013, 08:13 PM   #3
AGDubyaJ
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I'm no TIG expert so correct me if Im' wrong, but you wanna run 10% thoriated tungsten, your gas at 10 CFM, and like Squire said- make sure you don't touch your tungsten to anything, and try adding a bit more filler into your weld puddle- your getting a little undercut and underfill at the toe of your weld and I would bet thats why your getting those little "craters". other than that, it looks like your consistency is there, and your getting it! Keep up the good work!
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Unread 08-30-2013, 09:21 PM   #4
AtTheHelm
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I'm not a tig welder, but I suspect not enough shielding gas is protecting the puddle. Looks similar to my mig welding beads if a strong breeze blows by.
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Unread 08-30-2013, 10:31 PM   #5
Ironworker709
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That crater is called Undercut...

Your burning too hot and/or not putting enough filler in the puddle
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Unread 08-31-2013, 04:07 PM   #6
youngjeepr
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You are using to much heat.. Everyone exaggerates about contaminated tungsten to much, yes if it is contaminated (when apparent metal sticks to your tungsten) then you need to re sharpen it but a lot of times you don't need to re sharpen them.. You can see in the left side of your picture where you contaminated your tungsten (the orange smoke) on your material. You don't HAVE to use any certain type of tungsten it's really the welders preference. I use 2% thoriated on pretty much every type of material, from aluminum, mild steel, stainless, chromoly, magnesium and even titanium. Just keep practicing and you will start to be able to "read" your puddle and decide wether your using to much heat, not enough and even if your travel speed is correct.
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Unread 09-14-2013, 08:33 PM   #7
zboss86
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3/32" - 2% thoriated tungsten, 1/16" ER70S-6 rod, #7 cup,

16 gauge sheet to 16 gauge tubing
I was welding outside with a slight breeze. I should have cleaned it better and the outside corner isn't as hard for me as an inside corner.

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Unread 09-15-2013, 08:57 AM   #8
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For some reason, I'm having problems welding laps joints. The top piece tends to pull away from the bottom as it heats up, especially with aluminum.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 09:51 AM   #9
youngjeepr
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That last pass started good but then you got to hot.

When your doing the aluminum laps are your tacking both sides?
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Unread 09-15-2013, 11:32 AM   #10
zboss86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
That last pass started good but then you got to hot.

When your doing the aluminum laps are your tacking both sides?
Yeah, I think your right, guess I need to take some heat out of it. I was focusing on keep the puddle the same width and I made it too hot which took the dimes out of it.

On the aluminum lap joints, I sheared some 2"x6" strips of 1/8". I tack the edges and center. I start the puddle and form the "C" to bridge to the two pieces and as I start moving the along the seam, the top tends to peel back.

I guess I just need to play with it some more.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 12:03 PM   #11
youngjeepr
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Try putting a bigger tack on both ends it shouldn't move more than maybe 1/16th"
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