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11-03-2008, 12:01 PM
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#106
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 921
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I am looking at getting a welder, probably a stick since I'm on a budget. There's a listing locally for a Lincoln Century 295 arc welder for only $235, which includes a cart, rods, 100' of 220v wiring and a receptacle, helmet, gloves, etc. The guy says it is originally a $900 welder. Is this a good welder? I'd rather spend the $200 on a good used welder rather than a new one that lacks power and is going to disappoint me. Oh, and BTW I don't have a problem running a 220v line in my garage. I've tried looking for reviews on this specific welder, but I can't find anything, which makes me think it has to be at least a few years old. Not that that necessarily means anything bad though. So what do any of you think about this?
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Black '91 YJ, pretty much stock for now. Finished engine rebuild. Runs beautifully.
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11-03-2008, 12:23 PM
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#107
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRhino
I am looking at getting a welder, probably a stick since I'm on a budget. There's a listing locally for a Lincoln Century 295 arc welder for only $235, which includes a cart, rods, 100' of 220v wiring and a receptacle, helmet, gloves, etc. The guy says it is originally a $900 welder. Is this a good welder? I'd rather spend the $200 on a good used welder rather than a new one that lacks power and is going to disappoint me. Oh, and BTW I don't have a problem running a 220v line in my garage. I've tried looking for reviews on this specific welder, but I can't find anything, which makes me think it has to be at least a few years old. Not that that necessarily means anything bad though. So what do any of you think about this?
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Is that a AC only rig? If so, you can get a new Lincoln 225 AC rig for that same price. The 225 AC buzz box can weld anything you need to weld on the Jeep except for thin sheet metal. An AC DC rig is much better and it can weld sheet metal better, but not great. A 295 arc is a big industrial rig. I think at that price it is a good deal, but you may want to search for a AC DC rig in the 150-225 or 160-235 range. I have the Hobart 16-235 and really like it.
BTW, if this is the rig from Northern AZ it says $100.00 worth of 220 line, not feet. In most cases with a stick it can be cheaper and easier to get longer cables than a long extension cord.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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11-03-2008, 01:29 PM
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#108
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob
Is that a AC only rig? If so, you can get a new Lincoln 225 AC rig for that same price. The 225 AC buzz box can weld anything you need to weld on the Jeep except for thin sheet metal. An AC DC rig is much better and it can weld sheet metal better, but not great. A 295 arc is a big industrial rig. I think at that price it is a good deal, but you may want to search for a AC DC rig in the 150-225 or 160-235 range. I have the Hobart 16-235 and really like it.
BTW, if this is the rig from Northern AZ it says $100.00 worth of 220 line, not feet. In most cases with a stick it can be cheaper and easier to get longer cables than a long extension cord.
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Yeah, that's the one listed in northern AZ. I don't know for sure if it is an AC only rig, I haven't talked to the guy yet. I don't think I'll be doing much sheet metal welding, as pretty much all the body panels on my Jeep are rust-free. The major issue for me right now is some rust on the frame, I have a couple holes beneath the rear shackles. Nothing structurally compromising though. Maybe I'll hold off and look for an AC-DC rig though, I would like one that's capable of sheet metal because I'm sure I'll need that at some point in the future.
Edit: or maybe I'll just save up for a decent MIG welder. I think I'm in too much of a hurry to get one, I wanna fab stuff!
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Black '91 YJ, pretty much stock for now. Finished engine rebuild. Runs beautifully.
Last edited by BlackRhino; 11-03-2008 at 02:21 PM..
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11-04-2008, 07:31 AM
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#109
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kemmerer, Wyoming
Posts: 17
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Just my 2cents I think you would be much happier with a mig, You'll get more use out of a good mig machine than you would a stick. I have the Hobart 187 Handler and I'm quite happy with what it can do, from welding tube to sheetmetal.
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11-04-2008, 04:50 PM
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#110
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardrockwyo
Just my 2cents I think you would be much happier with a mig, You'll get more use out of a good mig machine than you would a stick. I have the Hobart 187 Handler and I'm quite happy with what it can do, from welding tube to sheetmetal.
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Yeah, I've pretty much decided on a MIG. I've been reading more about stick welders and I don't think I want one.
I'd love a TIG welder, but that's a bit out of my price range. My dad has one (I'm out of state for college or I'd use it) and I've gotten to weld with it a couple times. It's so easy to use and makes really clean welds. It's sorta like soldering.
__________________
Black '91 YJ, pretty much stock for now. Finished engine rebuild. Runs beautifully.
Last edited by BlackRhino; 11-04-2008 at 05:10 PM..
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11-04-2008, 05:16 PM
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#111
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Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 3,538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackRhino
Yeah, I've pretty much decided on a MIG. I've been reading more about stick welders and I don't think I want one.
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The Migs ain't as cheap, but I agree all in all they are a better choice. Just don't buy a 110 volt model. Get the Miller, Hobart, or Lincoln 22o volt in the 180 amp range.
I have a Lincoln 110 volt 140 amp mig that is very nice on thin stuff. I use my stick for everything else.
__________________
2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited
Jeep Club Member #1340
6 Speed, Hardtop
Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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12-15-2008, 12:34 PM
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#112
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sunnyvale, CA
Posts: 127
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I'm stuck on 110v and debating between the lincoln and hobart 140 models Anyone have any suggestions? Also how limited will I be using a 110 unit? I'm not planning on any crazy welding biggest project in the near future would be building a simple bumper and moving perches for an soa.
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89 YJ/2.5L/2.5" Springs/1.5" shackles/Brown Dog motor mounts/33x12.50x15MT/15x8 alloy rims/es9000 shocks/skyjackter 1" tcase drop/soda bottle seat mount
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02-02-2009, 05:40 AM
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#113
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pembroke ON, Ontario
Posts: 2,013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gildedseat
I'm stuck on 110v and debating between the lincoln and hobart 140 models Anyone have any suggestions? Also how limited will I be using a 110 unit? I'm not planning on any crazy welding biggest project in the near future would be building a simple bumper and moving perches for an soa.
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For bumper mounting points and any suspension work I would go with 220v
I am starting to think about getting a 110 (220 would be nice but with no shop/garage and no 220 outlet in the military housing its not practical). I want mine for doing small stuff, body work, odd projects and if I want a big project done I can always do it with the 110/flux and take it to a welding shop and have them go over the welds with a 220 or borrow a friends 220.
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2002 Dodge Dakota quad cab V8
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan
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02-04-2009, 11:47 AM
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#114
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pembroke ON, Ontario
Posts: 2,013
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anyone have any input on this sucker? I have been looking at it for a bit and it just went on sale.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...romSearch=true
Features
Power: 115V
Metal thickness: 20-gauge to 5/32"
Duty-cycle: 20% at 88A
Output current: 35 - 88A
Input: 20A heat settings
Wire used: MIG 0.024 - 0.03" or flux-core 0.03 - 0.035"
MIG/flux-core polarity control
Infinite wire speed control and four control heat selection dial
Thermal overload protection with indicator light
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2002 Dodge Dakota quad cab V8
2011 Dodge Grand Caravan
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02-05-2009, 02:56 AM
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#115
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 66
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Frumpy,
If all you really wanna do is sheetmetal work... that welder will do just fine. In my experience with welders, If you want to get good performance out of them, buy a unit that will handle at least 1.5X the thickness of the thickest material you will be working with. I personally wouldn't ever own a 110V welder, but I have been welding for over 15 years now, and get into some fairly serious projects.
FWIW, If I didnt have my current equipment (tig) and I wanted something to fab jeep parts, I would go with a stick welder. With a little practice and some good rods, you can make some really nice looking stick welds. Also, a good 220V AC/DC stick welder will cost you about the same as a 110V mig once you get set up with gas, and the stick welder is WAY more capable
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02-07-2009, 07:45 PM
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#116
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: northwest PA
Posts: 2
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I just bought a stitch welding torch for my Miller 220v, ac/dc stick welder. It is suposed to weld as thin as 22gague. anone used one of these? any advice?
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[url]www.backwoodsjeepclub.org[/url]
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02-21-2009, 08:31 PM
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#117
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 172
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I know this thread prefers 220v, but has anyone used the Hobart Handler 140? On paper it claims up to 1/4 inch.
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02-21-2009, 08:38 PM
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#118
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Got my eye on you.....
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,612
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I have used one to do 1/4" stuff. It took time and a couple of passes to get a good weld. BUT it will do it with flux core wire.
__________________
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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02-21-2009, 10:29 PM
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#119
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Kentucky/Cinci Area
Posts: 3,012
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What kind of machine would you welding guru's reccomend for welding spring perches/shock mounts/traction bar mount onto my axles when I do my soa this summer. My step dad has a hobart handler stick and he is decent at using that and my good friend has a 110v lincoln mig and he is decent on that as well. Which would you reccomend? Or should I try and find someone with a 220v mig? Thanks!
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93 YJ - SOLD
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02-21-2009, 10:47 PM
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#120
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Got my eye on you.....
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 18,612
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If the handler is 220 stick, then use that.
__________________
Congenital Heart Disease is a reality for me, BOTH of my children have it. Please read up and become aware for future generations
Lydia Ann-Acquired 08/05/05 Open Heart surgery 08/10/05
Jacob Patrick-Acquired 01/17/08 Open Heart surgery 02/15/08
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