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post #31 of 402 Old 11-04-2007, 05:59 PM
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I got a lincoln 3200 works pretty well for me

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post #32 of 402 Old 11-05-2007, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mferrari
I am looking to pick up a welder shortly. My plans include building skids, bumpers, maybe control arms and welding up suspension stuff later. Also I may build a new cage at some point when I decide for a full frame tied in cage...

If I am reading right will a regular stick be able to do most of this? And semi-easy to learn on?
Yes. A 225-230 (150-160 DC) amp A/C D/C welder has equal or better capacity than a 210 AMP Mig and the cost is going to be a little better, like 1/3 the cost. (Hobart stickmate 230/160 is about $450.00 versus a Ironman 210 @ $1,200.00 and add another $100.00 for a tank) Even the 180 amp migs are not meant to weld gas shield over 3/16". And unless you go to a high dollar mig like the Miller 210 your duty cycle is really poor. Even a $300.00 Lincoln stick welder can weld 3/16" stuff all day long without shutting down. That poor duty cycle can be very frustrating.

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Originally Posted by mferrari

I may also want to do sheet metal work on my heep and other vehicles too, so I can cut down the voltage and I should be fine for that as well?
Yes. The mig gas shield will do a better job on sheet metal. But going DC with a 3/32" rod works pretty well on a stick unit.

You can buy a straight A/C stick welder for well under $300.00 but I strongly suggest an A/C D/C unit as the welds look so much nicer and there are more rod options. They start at about $450.00. Hobart at Tractor Supply Company seems to be the best deal. The only disadvantage to a stick unit is they require a 50 amp service as opposed to a 30 amp service for the 180 mig units. Many people already have a 30 amp in the garage for a dryer.

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post #33 of 402 Old 11-06-2007, 07:43 PM
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post #34 of 402 Old 11-07-2007, 08:19 AM
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Well, I finally got my new welder yesterday. Hobart 230/160 Stickmate A/C D/C unit. I need to run a 50 amp service to the garage this weekend and I'll be in gear to weld the heavier stuff. Last weekend I was working on my tailgate hinge/tire carrier project and got so dang frustrated with that little 140 mig I thought I was gonna toss it in the trashcan. Terrible penetration and poor duty cycle. It took me over an hour to lay down 4 8" long welds due to the duty cycle and those welds will be ground out and re-done with the new welder this weekend or soon after. Bob

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post #35 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 08:58 AM
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Welder question

I've seen lots of info posted on here about different welders but I have not seen the answer to the specific question that I have. I have looked at several machines now and am leaning towards the Millermatic 252. This is what the welding shop suggests and what they are saying makes since. I am new to welding but I do not want to buy small and in 6 months to a year outgrom my smaller machine. With this being said is the 252 too big for a jeep? Am I wasting my money? Should I just go to a smaller machine and if so Which one should I not outgrow for auto work.

Thanks
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post #36 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cts6867
I've seen lots of info posted on here about different welders but I have not seen the answer to the specific question that I have. I have looked at several machines now and am leaning towards the Millermatic 252. This is what the welding shop suggests and what they are saying makes since. I am new to welding but I do not want to buy small and in 6 months to a year outgrom my smaller machine. With this being said is the 252 too big for a jeep? Am I wasting my money? Should I just go to a smaller machine and if so Which one should I not outgrow for auto work.
Thanks

That is most definatly overkill. I have the millermatic 180 and it will weld ANYTHING that I throw on my jeep. Heck, I can do my structural steal test practicing with mine. The 252 is obviously a NICE machine and I would love to own it. For a beginner and only doing jeep stuff the 180 is definatly in your ballpark. You will not be dissapointed down the road with this machine.


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post #37 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cts6867
I've seen lots of info posted on here about different welders but I have not seen the answer to the specific question that I have. I have looked at several machines now and am leaning towards the Millermatic 252. This is what the welding shop suggests and what they are saying makes since. I am new to welding but I do not want to buy small and in 6 months to a year outgrom my smaller machine. With this being said is the 252 too big for a jeep? Am I wasting my money? Should I just go to a smaller machine and if so Which one should I not outgrow for auto work.

Thanks
How many hours will you weld each week?

i can sorta welds stuff together
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post #38 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cts6867
I've seen lots of info posted on here about different welders but I have not seen the answer to the specific question that I have. I have looked at several machines now and am leaning towards the Millermatic 252. This is what the welding shop suggests and what they are saying makes since. I am new to welding but I do not want to buy small and in 6 months to a year outgrom my smaller machine. With this being said is the 252 too big for a jeep? Am I wasting my money? Should I just go to a smaller machine and if so Which one should I not outgrow for auto work.

Thanks
Get the 185.

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post #39 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Gertsch
Get the 185.
Miller no longer makes the 185, that was two models ago.

It was superseded by the 210, which has now been replaced by the 212.

Up until and including the 210, Miller used copper windings.

With the 212 and 252 they switched to aluminum like Lincoln did years ago.

i can sorta welds stuff together
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post #40 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 04:38 PM
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Welder

I don't think I will be welding much each week unless I just really get carried away with it. I need to do a LOT of rust repair. planning a SOA and changing the motor to a 350. I do tons of work on cars and want to learn the welding. As I stated before I just don't want to outgrow the machine soon.

Thanks for the help guys.
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post #41 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cts6867
I don't think I will be welding much each week unless I just really get carried away with it. I need to do a LOT of rust repair. planning a SOA and changing the motor to a 350. I do tons of work on cars and want to learn the welding. As I stated before I just don't want to outgrow the machine soon.

Thanks for the help guys.
You have options then.....

An AC/DC stick machine will handle both your thick and thin, plus allow some advantages that Mig will not, such as 99ni for the repair of cast and grey iron. Do not expect to weld aluminum and have it look good. It will not.....

If you want a MIG, I believe the 220v Millermatic 180, DVI, or 212 will suit your needs well. If you can pony up for a 212 and not blink an eye, then do it. You won't regret it. If you're budget conscious then look at the advantages and disadvantages of the 180 and DVI, then pick one.

If you buy a speedlens, and I'd recommend that you do, buy a good one. And just in case your wondering, last time I looked, Harbor Freight did not make any speedlens that I would consider good.

i can sorta welds stuff together
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post #42 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-Welder
If you buy a speedlens, and I'd recommend that you do, buy a good one. And just in case your wondering, last time I looked, Harbor Freight did not make any speedlens that I would consider good.
This here is good advice. Myself, I have a miller elite series.


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post #43 of 402 Old 11-25-2007, 06:48 PM
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I almost bought a Miller Elite, but have never used anything other than Speedglas, and in the end bought a 9002X. I use that for TIG and my everyday MIG.

For out of position work or plate over 2", I use a fiberglass Tiger Hood, large opening, and a Speedglas APC-V drop in lens.

As for the made in China HF stuff, it isn't a matter of saftey, as all helmets must meet ANSI specs. A speed lens can only let so much ultra voilet or infared light through, must darken in a specific time, etc.. So those helmets must be safe. Much the same way that our childrens toys made in China can only contain a certain amount of lead. There are regulations for that too. So they must be safe as well.

My big gripe with the cheap speedlenses is with the quality of the optics. Everything is blurry and fuzzy. It's more difficult to see everything that your puddle is doing, thus affecting weld quality.

You can't weld good if you can't see good.

Unless you have a seeing eye dog.

i can sorta welds stuff together
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post #44 of 402 Old 11-26-2007, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e-Welder
You have options then.....

An AC/DC stick machine will handle both your thick and thin, plus allow some advantages that Mig will not, such as 99ni for the repair of cast and grey iron. Do not expect to weld aluminum and have it look good. It will not.....

If you want a MIG, I believe the 220v Millermatic 180, DVI, or 212 will suit your needs well. If you can pony up for a 212 and not blink an eye, then do it. You won't regret it. If you're budget conscious then look at the advantages and disadvantages of the 180 and DVI, then pick one.
Ditto what he says.

I just got the Hobart A/C D/C Stickmate LX at TSC and it is an amazing welder. Virtually infinate amperage control and a duty cycle that won't quit. And it is a nice compact unit. It can weld just about anything but very thin sheet metal and like mentioned above, aluminum. It can do thin sheet metal, but the mig does work better for that. Once you get to the thick construction type welding the stick is super. I still have my Lincoln 140 amp mig for the thin stuff (1/8" and thinner) as that is about all it is good for anyway. I am leaving the mig as a .025 solid wire gas welding rig only. No more flux core for me.

As far as Mig goes I would say to pay close attention to the duty cycle on those. Once you start welding 1/4" plate your duty cycle is usually pretty bad and you will need to do flux core anyway with the 180 class welders. Read the ratings closely and compare. Yes, they say they can weld up to 5/16"-3/8" metal, but that is flux core and multi-pass. Of course if money is no object and you can go big then do it. If you just want some extremely strong welds and save a couple bucks the A/C D/C is for you.

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post #45 of 402 Old 11-26-2007, 11:55 AM
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Is a stick welder a good choice for doing things like spring perches or shock mounts? I plan on swapping in an 8.8 and am considering taking on the welding myself.
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