Thinking of buying a welder - Page 23 - JeepForum.com

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post #331 of 402 Old 03-29-2012, 02:25 PM
Zakman
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A new Miller MM211 owner here!





This thread and many others here on JF convinced me to go for a 230V machine. I was going to get a Lincoln 140, but I only wanted to purchase one unit that will last me a long, long time. The flexibilty of 115 or 230V was perfect for me until I get the garage wired for 230.




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post #332 of 402 Old 05-09-2012, 11:47 AM
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I have recently been considering buying a welder myself. I was looking into the 120V migs, but after reading here, the stick welders will be reevaluated. Thanks
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post #333 of 402 Old 09-26-2012, 10:12 AM
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Ok. Lincoln 140 on craigslist for my snap on tool cart? He was asking 230 for it. My tool cart is worth about 200. What do you all think about this trade?
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post #334 of 402 Old 09-26-2012, 04:51 PM
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sounds good if you dont want your tool cart anymore. $230 for the welder is a good price. How old?

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post #335 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 02:11 PM
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Asking for a welder for Christmas but I would be more comfortable if I could ask for a specific model. I've done some research and it seems like stick/arc is the way im gonna go, being that im 16 and can't just walk up to my parents and tell them to rewire the garage, I need something to run on a standard outlet.(we have a dryer plug I could use, but its on the second story, and there's tile flooring, im not welding on the tile and running an extension cord from the 2nd story would just be a pain. Anyway, would someone give me some recommendations for a good arc welder to run from a regular outlet?? I will be doing nothing bigger than 1/4", mostly sheet metal stuff, looking to do a roll cage addition at some point, a safari rack of some sort, and some other little stuff, shelves and such.
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post #336 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browning16 View Post
Asking for a welder for Christmas but I would be more comfortable if I could ask for a specific model. I've done some research and it seems like stick/arc is the way im gonna go, being that im 16 and can't just walk up to my parents and tell them to rewire the garage, I need something to run on a standard outlet.(we have a dryer plug I could use, but its on the second story, and there's tile flooring, im not welding on the tile and running an extension cord from the 2nd story would just be a pain. Anyway, would someone give me some recommendations for a good arc welder to run from a regular outlet?? I will be doing nothing bigger than 1/4", mostly sheet metal stuff, looking to do a roll cage addition at some point, a safari rack of some sort, and some other little stuff, shelves and such.
Got yourself in a pickle there. I've never seen a 110 volt stick welder that is worth much. And your two needs, 1/4" and sheet metal don't work with a 110 volt stick.

I am a big fan of stick welding as I have been doing it for about 45 years. But a good 220 volt stick welder is not suited for sheet metal and you have no 220. I'd suggest a good 110 volt Mig. Besides my 220 volt Hobart AC?DC stick welder I have a Lincoln 140 amp Mig that has been very dependable and works great on most things I do. It is not optimal on anything over 3/16" IMHO, but it can be done. Price wise they do cost more. But you can find them used sometimes at a fair price. Go for name brands. Lincoln, Miller, Hobart for dependability. Everything you talk about can be done with one of these small welders, but to me 1/4" stuff that really needs some penetration is best done with a 220 volt rig.

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post #337 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 07:15 PM
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well, more specifically, most of what i will be welding is gonna be sheet metal and tubing, i threw the 1/4" in there because thats the absolute max i would need to do, for if i decided to make a really beefy bumper, but realistically i probably wont go over 3/16, most of my welding will be around 1/8th or a tad smaller. I'd like to have the ability to weld 3/16, but i dont intend on putting my life in the hands of my own welds on 3/16th, i probably won't put my life behing any of my welds for awhile, until i either get a tubing bender or buy a pre bent cage set, both of which won't be for 9 months or so, so I'll be a stronger welder by then and even then, ill be relying on good welds on metal approximately 1/8th of an inch thick. I don't know if that made any sense or not, but regardless, if you had to reccommend a 110 volt, which would it be.
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post #338 of 402 Old 11-06-2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by browning16 View Post
well, more specifically, most of what i will be welding is gonna be sheet metal and tubing, i threw the 1/4" in there because thats the absolute max i would need to do, for if i decided to make a really beefy bumper, but realistically i probably wont go over 3/16, most of my welding will be around 1/8th or a tad smaller. I'd like to have the ability to weld 3/16, but i dont intend on putting my life in the hands of my own welds on 3/16th, i probably won't put my life behing any of my welds for awhile, until i either get a tubing bender or buy a pre bent cage set, both of which won't be for 9 months or so, so I'll be a stronger welder by then and even then, ill be relying on good welds on metal approximately 1/8th of an inch thick. I don't know if that made any sense or not, but regardless, if you had to reccommend a 110 volt, which would it be.
Well, I really don't know of any stick welders that are 110 except cheaply built stuff like Harbor Frieght sells. On Mig I'd go with Lincoln, Hobart, or Miller. Look for sales. I'd use any of them.

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post #339 of 402 Old 11-07-2012, 07:43 AM
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But then i need to buy a tank and gas right? I dont want to deal with that
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post #340 of 402 Old 11-07-2012, 10:33 AM
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I recently bought a Hobart Ironman 230. I couldn't be happier with it. Welds HOT and quiet as a mouse. The 15ft gun was simply the icing on the cake. Side note: When you call to talk to a Hobart rep, they answer the phone "Miller welding, this is Jim."

I recommend highly.







First weld outta the box on 3/16" Settings on 5 with 40 wire speed.


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post #341 of 402 Old 11-07-2012, 12:50 PM
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But then i need to buy a tank and gas right? I dont want to deal with that
Most all newer 110 volt Migs come with the regulator for gas, but no gas tank. No problem. You can weld flux core as well. Once some money comes in get a tank and weld Mig as well. A tank is not as expensive as you may think. Bottom line is, the Lincoln, Miller, Hobart 110 Migs will weld flux core right out of the box.

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post #342 of 402 Old 11-07-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomb Raider View Post
I recently bought a Hobart Ironman 230. I couldn't be happier with it. Welds HOT and quiet as a mouse. The 15ft gun was simply the icing on the cake. Side note: When you call to talk to a Hobart rep, they answer the phone "Miller welding, this is Jim."

I recommend highly.


First weld outta the box on 3/16" Settings on 5 with 40 wire speed.

Nice machine! I had a "betamig" 250 years ago and a "fabricator" (think it was a 300amp). They always worked hard. I have been seeing some odd things about the Miller/Hobart merge. Once in a while a LTL truck will pull in here with a bunch of Hobarts going to the Miller depot LOL. As long as they keep them made in America. I will have to post a pic of my '50s vintage Hobart stick welder, she is 220v single phase and can burn some rod!

Nice weld, imagine what they will look like when you learn how to dance with her.

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post #343 of 402 Old 11-08-2012, 07:50 AM
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Is gasless MIG any better than stick? Isn't it the same thing?? or is the entire MIG machine different?
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post #344 of 402 Old 11-08-2012, 11:28 AM
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Is gasless MIG any better than stick? Isn't it the same thing?? or is the entire MIG machine different?
Okay, when you buy what most commonly call a MIG machine you are actually buying a wire feed welder. There are 2 methods that wire feed welders operate. Flux core welding where the wire has a flux in it to allow the proper chemical stuff to happen and the weld penetrate and work properly. Flux core welding requires no gas. One advantage to Flux core is you can weld outdoors better with it as doing MIG in windy conditions can be problematic. You will also find, especially with a 110 volt welder, that with flux core welding you can get deeper penetration and weld heavier metal. The welds are not a pretty as with the Mig process, but in some cases are stronger. And yes, welding flux core is similar to stick welding. As far as gasless flux core being better than stick is up to the welder. I seldom use flux core on my small Lincoln 110 volt welder. I use it for thinner metal and sheet metal as a MIG. Beautiful welds. I do really like the fact that I can go flux core and weld anywhere I can get a 110 volt extension cord outside. There is a lot of times you may need to weld something in the backyard or somewhere that getting a 220 volt machine to would not be feasible. But if I am welding 3/16" and up structural stuff I get out my big stick AC/DC welder.

Mig uses a solid wire with no flux. A mixture of inert gas is fed to the area of the weld and allows the weld to be made in a zero oxygen environment which helps eliminate oxidizing in the weld and also being there is no flux the weld is smoother.

There are some 110 volt machines that are flux core only machines. The majority though give you the option to go both ways. I strongly suggest you get the machine that allows both. You can add the gas tank later.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #345 of 402 Old 11-08-2012, 06:33 PM
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Great explanation!

Are you working the oilfields in Bakersfield?

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