Thinking of buying a welder - Page 15 - JeepForum.com

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post #211 of 402 Old 03-21-2010, 11:59 PM
ZSXJ430
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tacobox,

Thanks for the advice. I have 1 cart and that is all I have room for. It holds my cordless tools when not in use. I can put up with switching back and forth so long as the equipment lasts for years. I do not have enough funding to purchase two. I can get the Lincoln spool gun for under $200 new, so the kit would be around $850. I can eat that.


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post #212 of 402 Old 03-22-2010, 07:29 PM
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You are welcome. My Dad loves to give me farm projects to practice my skills on. I had a 4 car shop built a couple of years back. It does not matter how big you go. You will fill it up. I just finished the lift, wheels and tires for my son's jeep today. Building a basket with light bar tomorrow.

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post #213 of 402 Old 03-22-2010, 07:30 PM
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You are welcome. My Dad loves to give me farm projects to practice my skills on. I had a 4 car shop built a couple of years back. It does not matter how big you go. You will fill it up. I just finished the lift, wheels and tires for my son's jeep today. Building a basket with light bar tomorrow.

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post #214 of 402 Old 03-26-2010, 11:28 AM
ikenchute
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I can’t see where I’m going!!!!

This may sound kinda silly, but how do you welding guys see where you are welding?

I start off good but after about 1 1/2” I get off track, usually to the right of where I need to be.

I can’t see where the metal meet and need to be welded, it's just too dark for me.

I tried using a drop light to help but it turns on the auto darker quicker and is of little use.

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post #215 of 402 Old 03-26-2010, 07:51 PM
tacobox
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Hey Ike,

If you do not already have an auto-dimming shield. I would pop the $60 for one. If you have one already, that is probably why you are starting on track. Try these 3 things to see if it helps.

The auto-dim has a delay. If it is dimming too slow it may be causing your pupils to close making you weld blind.

The auto-dim also has a dimming level. If you have it set too light it will cause your pupils to close.

Weld in good light. If the area around you is dark, the weld will be so bright in comparison it will stress your eyes. You should be able to see a couple of inches from each side of the weld while laying down a stitch.

You really will just have to play with the shield controls until you find the right balance. I also hold my pinkie down to feel along the seam on longer lines.

Good luck,
rick
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post #216 of 402 Old 03-27-2010, 08:51 AM
ikenchute
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yep it's auto-dim, don't think it has any adjustments on it. if i'm outside in the bright sun i can see ok, but in the shop it's way too dark.
thanks i'll look for any adjustments.

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post #217 of 402 Old 03-27-2010, 11:06 AM
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I had a shield like that. I could not use it and bought another. I did some reading and found a few things to check. The photo cell on the front could be dirty and the lens may be too far from your eyes. I like mine to almost touch my eye lashes. The only other thing I could find was related to Insufficient ambient light.

So, If you can not adjust the dim and the mask is clean. You will need to use something like a Halogen Shop Light on your weld.

Here is my first project. It was a good exercise of paint, body, machine and welding. Everything came from salvage or drops in the steel yard. I may have $150 in all of it.

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post #218 of 402 Old 04-23-2010, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tacobox View Post
Hey Ike,

If you do not already have an auto-dimming shield. I would pop the $60 for one. If you have one already, that is probably why you are starting on track. Try these 3 things to see if it helps.

The auto-dim has a delay. If it is dimming too slow it may be causing your pupils to close making you weld blind.

The auto-dim also has a dimming level. If you have it set too light it will cause your pupils to close.

Weld in good light. If the area around you is dark, the weld will be so bright in comparison it will stress your eyes. You should be able to see a couple of inches from each side of the weld while laying down a stitch.

You really will just have to play with the shield controls until you find the right balance. I also hold my pinkie down to feel along the seam on longer lines.

Good luck,
rick
The delay is for AFTER you stop welding,the reaction time for switch over can't be changed.most cheap ones being 1/10,000 of a second..higher end lens in the 1/25,000's second range.

The dimming light is the "shade"..anywhere from 7-14..most common lens are adjustable from 9-13,and a light shade of 3-4.Alot are going to the 8-12 now.
The lower the number..the lighter the shade.

If you're not seeing the weld puddle clearly..you have too dark a shade lens..whether it be a fixed shade or auto lens

Welding in dark has always been better visibility for me..the lighter the surroundings..the more it wants to blend in.

Only time having to use a light is if i'm in a dark vessel welding so i can see through the clear state on my auto lens to start the weld.

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx

Last edited by Ironworker709; 06-11-2010 at 04:24 PM.
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post #219 of 402 Old 04-23-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikenchute View Post
I can’t see where I’m going!!!!

This may sound kinda silly, but how do you welding guys see where you are welding?

I start off good but after about 1 1/2” I get off track, usually to the right of where I need to be.

I can’t see where the metal meet and need to be welded, it's just too dark for me.

I tried using a drop light to help but it turns on the auto darker quicker and is of little use.
If its an auto and no adjustments..than its a "fixed shade",may have too dark of a shade,10 is common,...the lower the number,the lighter the shade.
Next time buying a an auto lens,make sure its an adjustable shade,i have a fixed shade made by Huntsman-Solera,it just fits inside any small lens sheild,but it stays on shade 10,which sucks in different situations,so only use it when the situation is right.
But really never use it anymore..have 3 good auto lens sheilds now with full adjustability

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx
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post #220 of 402 Old 04-27-2010, 01:42 AM
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I've had good luck marking a reference line above or below the area to be welded, using a soapstone marker. The arc reflects off the mark just enough and I can stay on track (don't mark it so close as to contaminate the weld bead). And yes, you MUST see the weld pool clearly.

Some days the old eyes need a little help, but don't be tempted to go too light on the shade, especially if you are using MIG. No less than a #10 equivelent and I think some mfr's say even darker. Of course you can get away with less for a very short duration but I would not do so. It does not take much to harm the eye.

I've seen guys tacking up big projects just closing thier eyes, no helmet...yeah. Ok. Looks cool on TV. Hey, buddy, those rays go right through the eye lid and ain't good for exposed skin either!
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post #221 of 402 Old 04-27-2010, 09:03 PM
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shielded

Hey y'all, I just got a Hobart 140 and an el cheapo auto dark helmet. I find the welder to be easy to use probably capable of any project I would take on for now. I am very new to welding, only been doing it 2 days,having fun though. My question is, what darkness setting do most of you experienced guys use? I realize this could be subject to change from one helmet to another. I found the setting of 12 to be too dark, I don't know how light I can go before risking injury to my already bad eyes. Help. Bart

ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salready gone
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post #222 of 402 Old 04-27-2010, 10:34 PM
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10 is the average shade used for most..i know some guys who like 9 or even 11..12 is way too dark for any low amp Wirefeed.
Just try the shade settings out until you can clearly see the puddle and how it's laying in there .

As long as you have inside and out clear lens over the dark lens that are ANSI Z87.1 approved..you won't have to worry about any weld flash in the eyes,plus havin the same ANSI Z87.1 safety glasses on behind the shield will prevent flash too....
Z87.1 clear lens is 99.9% UV and IR resistant,they have a Polycarbonite in them..which means there is less of a % of harmfull rays getting through to you're eyes then standing outside in sunlight with no protection.Havin 3 there,or even 4 including the lens itself..you'll never get weldors flash..the dark lens Z87.1 is 100% protective.
Sometimes people mistake the "snowblind" effect for weld flash,that's just you're pupils adjusting from dark to light,,if you get weld flash..you'll KNOW it..you''ll wake up in the middle of the night and feels like someone threw sand or glass into you're eyes,it's just like sunburn on the skin..but in the eyes.

I used to have a Lincoln Pro Mig 135 110 volt machine..was a good machine for 110 volt..have heard alot of good things about the Hobart 140..welcome to disease of welding and fabrication..lol..now you will never stop thinkin"Hey!,i don"t have to buy that,i know i can built it better for a fraction of the cost!"...lol

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx

Last edited by Ironworker709; 04-28-2010 at 08:37 AM.
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post #223 of 402 Old 04-29-2010, 08:32 PM
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Thanks for the info. Yeah, I already am planning on building a cart for the machine. Better for me than buying one, get practical practice. I am planning on going really cheap, using old bed frames for the steel.

ifyoubegintothinkyou'relosingcontrol...it'salready gone
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post #224 of 402 Old 05-03-2010, 08:40 PM
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so its quickly becoming summer, meaning my paychecks will be a BIT larger, meaning i should have my welder in about 6-8 weeks. my list is as follows:

Miller 211 w/autoset and cart (ebay): ~ $1150

Miller Performance series helmet: ~ $200

MIG Gloves: ~ $15

Gas cylinder: ~ $100 + fill

extra wire (0.35): ~ $100

consumables: ~ $ 20

Ballpark grand total: $1600

ideas, suggestions, critique? Thanks!

note: the " ~ " denotes "approximately"

I am slowly, but surely fixing everything Jeep f'd up...
My super slow build:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...thread-902267/
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post #225 of 402 Old 05-04-2010, 03:52 AM
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All looks good,except for the extra wire,..100.00 is about 3 times the cost in my area for an 11# spool of lincoln hardwire at an airgas dealer.
Might want to consider a spool of .023 or .024 or .025,which ever is available in you're area for welding sheetmetal and light material to add to the list.
When you decide to go ahead and start pullin the trigger on buying,shop around eBay for the Miller Performance hood,you can get them new from an authorised dealer for 150.00-170.00 most of the time.

That Miller 211 is a great setup,you'll be tickled pink with it.

Don't DREAM your life, LIVE your dreams

Never forget 9/11

"Welding is like a woman,Get 'er HOT and Penetrate"

Gotta LOVE a person who knows everything about NOTHING

The only Thing necessary for the Evil to win is a good man to do nothing....

"How far you go in life depends on your being tender with the young,compassionate with the aged,sympathetic with the striving,and tolerant with the weak and strong--because someday YOU will have been all of these"....George Washington Carver

Want to know what an Ironworker is and the job scope of a Journeyman?..click here...http://www.ironworkers.org/becoming/careers.aspx
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