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Advance Adapters SYE KitsARTEC JK UNDER ARMOR - 4 door Bellypan Kits~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 03-27-2014, 02:51 AM   #16
Hokie_YJ
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I didn't have a lot of time in the shop today so there's not a lot of real progress. I did get a few things done though.

I cleaned and spray bombed the wheels. If I get some time tomorrow afternoon I may start mounting the tires.



After that I put the GTO oil pan on the engine, and put on the fittings to adapt the steam ports to -4 AN. And I figured I'd stick the headers on for a test fit. They're OBX LS turbo headers. They're supposed to come up and froward, but it makes them too wide to fit the chassis. This way they're narrow enough, but it's gonna be tight with the steering pump. I've got the engine bracket kit from Wide Open Design that I think will move it up high enough, I just have to get a new water pump before I can put it on. I also put in new spark plugs, and Taylor Thundervolt plug wires with heat shield boots.





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Unread 03-27-2014, 02:52 AM   #17
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When time has allowed over the last week I've been working on installing the WOD LS engine bracket kit. Along with a new water pump, alternator, and PSC CBR pump. It's a very nice kit, and the install was very easy. I only had a couple if minor problems with the power coat being too thick in a few holes. That was easily solved. Also, I bought the belt they recommended for the kit, but it was too long. I stepped down to a slightly shorter belt. Maybe one of my pulleys is a different size than what they spec'd it for. Just something to keep in mind if you're installing this kit.



Today I cut a couple of pieces of 1/4" plate and formed them to the bottom of both axle housings to act as a skid plate since the housings are just 1/8" thick. Definitely not fancy, but it will work.



After that I spent the rest of the day mounting the tires on the beadlocks. That's definitely not a job I want to do again any time soon. It about wore me out.




Not a lot of progress, but at least it is moving forward. Friday starts my long weekend though, I'll be off for 9 days, Hopefully I'll make some good progress during that time. My next goal is getting it back to a roller, and the start mocking up the drivetrain.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 02:55 AM   #18
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It may not look like a lot, but by my standards I've gotten quite a bit done the last couple of days.

First off I installed the inner axle seals in both housings. I used the seals Trail-Gear sales for their 9" housings. Mine used the 2.75" I.D. seals. Even though the rear is FF I'm using seals on it too. The center section will have to be over filled for the flipped pinion and I didn't want to have the tubes full too. I didn't get any pics, but they were a pretty simple install.

Then I got the axles and ORI's hung.





Then bolted on the rear brakes and checked the clearance with these wheels. Like I had expected it looks like I will have to run wheel spacers. It's that or new wheels, and I really just don't want to go to all that trouble right now. I already had some spacers, so these pics are with 1.5" spacers installed.






Then I got the Dynatrac ball joints installed and the knuckles back on the axle. The unit bearings and brakes bolted up to check clearance. And mounted the ram and measured for my tie rods. I'll cut them tomorrow. I can't bolt the front wheels on yet because I'm a dummy that didn't order lug nuts when I ordered studs. They'll be here sometime this week though.











I'll be working on it more this week. I may start tomorrow on putting the drivetrain together and getting it ready to set in the chassis. At least it's kinda starting to look like something now.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 02:57 AM   #19
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I got a little bit of time to work on it today. I got the Poweglide and Atlas mated together.





I also got the tie-rods cut and the inserts welded in. Each insert got two passes with the TIG and two plug welds with the MIG. Then I hooked the tie rods up and used an air hose to cycle the steering. I don't know yet if I can use the full 8" of stroke, or if I will have to limit it.












I know the angle of the tie-rod at full lock is not ideal, but the ram is as close to the axle as I could get it.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 04:57 AM   #20
jason m
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Hey welcome back, nice build I always liked that style of single seat buggys. Whos kit did you use for the shorty tail shaft on the glide? Ive looked around and I only found that AA sells the adapter but not the tail shaft itself Hugh or summit sells that.
That was a few years back when I was looking, maybe its changed.

Clean looking build, keep up the great work.

Jason.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 06:28 AM   #21
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Thanks man! I actually bought the Glide already built, minus the Ultra-Bell obviously. It was one of Will Carter's spares for his first 52x KOH buggy. It was built by Hughes, so I'm sure it's their shorty output.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 07:27 AM   #22
Helldorado Customs
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Damn nice work !
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Unread 03-27-2014, 10:32 AM   #23
Hokie_YJ
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Thanks, I appreciate it!
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Unread 03-27-2014, 05:37 PM   #24
Louie4
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Looking great!
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Unread 03-27-2014, 06:21 PM   #25
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I really like the look of that chassis! Looks like it's going 100mph sitting still.

Nice drivetrain combination and great work! Looking forward to seeing the finished product and some good videos!!
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Unread 03-27-2014, 06:26 PM   #26
Hokie_YJ
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Thanks! It's always been my favorite chassis design. I'm itching to get it done and get back to wheeling, it's been WAY too long.
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Unread 03-28-2014, 06:15 AM   #27
jason m
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Getting those mini tie rods straight is a tuff task, as much as I would want them straighter I think thats about the best you can do with the room you have.


Jason
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Unread 03-28-2014, 10:11 AM   #28
Hokie_YJ
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Yeah, and I'm not sure if I'll be using that much steering or not. I have to get the shafts in and check the steering travel again. I'll probably have to limit the ram internally to keep the yokes from binding.
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Unread 03-28-2014, 03:23 PM   #29
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This thing looks good so far.

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Unread 03-28-2014, 05:03 PM   #30
jason m
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I'm running 40* steering both front and rear steering and I had to grind the yoke's, you look like your at 42-45* so other than grinding you will have to limit the stroke.
Grinding out the yoke's is not a big deal, I used a 2" round stone on my 4.5" grinder and just slowly work out the inner cup sections of each inner and outer.
Doing this slowly you can gane up to 45* on a stock shaft before you jeopardize the strength of the shaft.

Jason.
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