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TJ 5.25" Speaker Adapters - NalinMFGTJ, YJ & LJ Drop Down Tail Gate Conversion KitLJ Suspension Systems from Clayton Off Road

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Unread 05-22-2014, 09:10 AM   #1
Joshrrr
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Suspension vs. Body Lift

Can anyone show me and explain the two differences in each lift? Thanks

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Unread 05-22-2014, 09:15 AM   #2
odyssey017
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Suspension lift would be new shocks and springs and raises the frame up from the axles. A body lift is just spacers and raises the body off of the frame further.
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Unread 05-22-2014, 09:20 AM   #3
odyssey017
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This is a very extreme example of a bodylift but you the the idea

alot of of people will run both such as a 2"suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift
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Unread 05-22-2014, 11:03 AM   #4
AtTheHelm
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It should be noted though that the redneck XJ pictured is on a frame from another vehicle. XJs are a unibody witch cannot be body lifted. Only frame vehicles can get a body lift. Body lifts do nothing to improve the ride quality, flex (aside from making room for larger tires), or performance of the suspension.

Edit: sorry had to go back and add redneck.
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Unread 05-22-2014, 11:28 AM   #5
strvger01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtTheHelm View Post
It should be noted though that the redneck XJ pictured is on a frame from another vehicle. XJs are a unibody witch cannot be body lifted. Only frame vehicles can get a body lift. Body lifts do nothing to improve the ride quality, flex (aside from making room for larger tires), or performance of the suspension.

Edit: sorry had to go back and add redneck.
however, body lifts do maintain the factory ride and handling characteristics at a minimum. if you replace the body mounts on an older 4x4 at the same time as the body lift, you could very well see an improvement in ride quality.
suspension lifts will require a front end alignment, usually give a stiffer ride, and will need different driving techniques.
if you're wanting a little larger tire size with modest off-roading, then a body lift will more than suffice.
if it will be more of a dedicated trail rig with much larger tires over stock, then the suspension lift would be the way to go.
i've had both and they both performed well and as expected. it all depends on your needs.
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Unread 05-22-2014, 03:46 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by strvger01 View Post
however, body lifts do maintain the factory ride and handling characteristics at a minimum. if you replace the body mounts on an older 4x4 at the same time as the body lift, you could very well see an improvement in ride quality.
suspension lifts will require a front end alignment, usually give a stiffer ride, and will need different driving techniques.
if you're wanting a little larger tire size with modest off-roading, then a body lift will more than suffice.
if it will be more of a dedicated trail rig with much larger tires over stock, then the suspension lift would be the way to go.
i've had both and they both performed well and as expected. it all depends on your needs.
Where does the need for a front end alignment come from when buying a suspension lift?..unless you are talking about an IFS front end in something other than a straight axled front end on a Jeep?

The ride quality depends on the quality of the kit,most giving a much softer ride than the old stock Jeep springs...hell..when i first got my YJ i bought a cheapo rough country 4" lift kit because it was on sale for 299.00 for the whole kit and it drastictly smoothed the ride out....
Some kits will make them ride stiffer,some will make the ride better...

And there is no way a Body lift is going to smooth a ride out unless the old body mounts were about falling off and the body was floating around on the frame...
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Unread 05-23-2014, 06:52 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Ironworker709 View Post

Where does the need for a front end alignment come from when buying a suspension lift?..unless you are talking about an IFS front end in something other than a straight axled front end on a Jeep?
Alignment should really be checked anytime front springs (it longer/shorter shackles) are installed. I have seen the caster change after replacing springs. You can get a ballpark idea with an angle finder. Once i decide I'm going to keep a setup for a while, I spend the $25 to have it professionally checked
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Unread 05-23-2014, 10:40 AM   #8
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have had both suspension and body lifts.
every one of my suspension lifts had to have an alignment afterwards. i also had pinion angles checked and had to adjust that on one of the lifts. and none of my suspension lifts gave me a ride quality even close to original. but i had what i wanted in a trail rig.
the body lifts i've had, combined with new body mounts, provided me with factory ride and handling characteristics. i had what i wanted for the dd vehicles.
but that's just me.
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Unread 05-23-2014, 11:30 AM   #9
Shadownwpa
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"Factory" handling is no longer "factory" when you lift the center of gravity (body lift does this too).. bigger tires will change it too.
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Unread 05-23-2014, 05:53 PM   #10
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When you put a lift on a straight axle front end,it does NOTHING to change the alignment unless you changed the rotation of the axle or otherwise known as the pinion angle.
If you changed the pinion angle,then you have more problems than any simple auto mechanic alignment can fix.........

If your camber is off on your dana 30 or 44 front axle,your ball joints are sloppy and wore out,almost all dana 30's and 44" are set at zero camber,with the exeption of some old wagoneers,if i remember correctly from my buddy's old waggy it 1.5 degrees....the lift had nothing to do with that as long as the pinion angle was set right with the new leaf springs or control arms on a coil spring setup,thats why coils spring lifts are more expensive than leaf spring setups,because they send the correct length or adjustable control arms with it as a MUST to keep the pinion angle in check when the axle is raised further from the frame and ride height....

If your toe in and toe out is off,again,the lift had nothing to do with it,it was there before the lift,a lift doesn't change that all...........

If you purposely change the pinion angle on an extreme lift to keep the pinion more in line with the driveshaft,then you'll need to grind the welds on the ends to rotate the spindle assembly back to where the steering is once again level with the pavement.,There is no possible way any normal alignment can cure that..............

I never have and never will go any longer than stock shackles,longer shackles change your(here we go again) pinion angle...on the rear it can be fine..on the front where it changes the steering rotation angle offset to the pavement,it can and will change things,and again,no alignment can change or fix that.........
I put boomeroang shackles on mine.stock length,only to prevent the shackles from hitting rear stock crossmember on the frame...Mine were lazer cut from AR500 wear plate also used commonly used as bullet proofing,a jeep aint gonna bend these things..lol

Bolted on cheapo rough country 4" lift on my YJ many years ago,these tires have probably around 30 to 40k miles on them,80% road..notice they are not far from needing replaced and evenly worn,,never once an alignment on this jeep since i've owned it,besides me using a string line to check the toe in and out when i replaced the tie rod ends....i replaced the ball joints a few years because i was getting a wobble..haven't had it since,the ball joints were wore out.
I see way too many people drive a vehicle as far it will go knowing it has slobby ball joints and tie rods and blame it on the tires that they didn't last long..lol
ajeeptires.jpg

ajeeptires1.jpg

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Unread 05-23-2014, 06:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadownwpa View Post
"Factory" handling is no longer "factory" when you lift the center of gravity (body lift does this too).. bigger tires will change it too.
Your talking about handling characteristics because the vehicle is higher from the surface,not ride quality,ride quality comes from the spring rate of the springs and what type of shocks used...
This is why you see alot more people go with a LCOG setup anymore just to get bigger tires in the wheel wells.....

Mine used to ride MUCH nicer than the stock springs,but now the cheapo shocks are worn out and stiff,i'm ordering some Bilsteins...

I agree on the bigger tires,most people will air down their tires lower than the manufacturer recommendation to soften the ride on heavy sidewall tires and wonder why the tires wore on the sides first...
Plus taller tires aired down will cause it to handle funky on turns...and again,the lift had nothing to with it..the tires did...
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Unread 05-23-2014, 09:12 PM   #12
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my little 1991 geo tracker had 5.5" suspension and body lift. i ran 235/85x16 E rated tires with tubes in them. it was a part time dd. i also drove it to and from the orv park, about 50 miles away and wheeled it all weekend. rode a little stiff. tires had 25psi for the road and i aired them down to 5psi for the trails. never lost a bead, never had a flat, never had any handling issues, and the tread wore evenly across the tires.
maybe it's not so much what you drive as how you drive.
i prefer driving to wrenching so that's how i drive my vehicles.
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