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Unread 04-02-2013, 03:27 AM   #16
athos76
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: El Paso, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edpszczolkowski View Post
I agree with using a torch to heat up the bolts to a nice glow, then trying the bolts after they cool a bit. Also a lot of thread-lock is deactivated by heat. That's how I got the Torx bolts holding the flex plate/flywheel onto my 2.8l CRD engine off without ruining them.
I usually torch the bolt till its a dark cherry then as it cools, spray some Sili-kroil or pb blast on the threads. When it cools, it will wick the penetrant down the threads.

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Unread 04-02-2013, 07:24 AM   #17
edpszczolkowski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by athos76 View Post

I usually torch the bolt till its a dark cherry then as it cools, spray some Sili-kroil or pb blast on the threads. When it cools, it will wick the penetrant down the threads.
I always figured that when you spray anything onto a hot bolt like that, it would just evaporate from the high heat. Maybe I'll give it a shot next time a bolt really fights me.
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Unread 04-02-2013, 10:56 AM   #18
rjbruzan
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Also the heat and cool cycle will often break the bond the rust has created.

Ron
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Unread 04-03-2013, 05:49 AM   #19
kjg26
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I tried the easy out method, that was a spectacular fail. Finally ground off the liner that was on the bolts and welded a nut or bolt to the top and ran it out that way. Got them all out yesterday. Replaced with grade 8 hex in the stock location until I get the chance to fit the cage sitting in my basement.
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